I am building a model t and I found numbers on the frame, drivers side at the firewall. A2845. The car is destined to be a hotrod, so there is no original motor, it's already been updated to a Ford smallblock and a 9" and front disc brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The reason I am asking is to find out the correct year of the car. Thanks
It's not a model T, maybe a model A.
Taylor - What you are building is NOT a Model T. What you are building is a streetrod. I would classify it as a 2015 Homebuilt.
To be considered a Model T it should have an original Model T engine, original wheels, etc.
Sorry, but that's the truth based on the facts you gave us.
You did find a great Model T Ford forum, but it is mostly for folks working to go back semi-period correct. I think there are some other sites you will find more helpful for the direction you are wanting to go. For example: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/all-hot-rod-model-ts-lets-see-them.727638/
Back to your question. Actually some Model Ts assembled in Australia did have an "A" followed by some numbers on their 1926-27 model year cars. Below is a photo of the firewall of John's very early 1926 touring.
But the Ford Archives Australia has closed the last I heard, so they can no longer look up a number for someone.
However if you post a photo of the body it is quite easy to tell within a few years what they were -- especially if they are the later bodies that had a 2 or 3 year run. Photos needed from the side, the cowl showing what cowl without the firewall looks like (for the 1926 and later cars the firewall was welded to the body so that is not an option). You can also take a look at photos on the forum at: http://www.mtfca.com/gallery/index.htm and probably tell if it is a T, A, or something else.
And favor to ask - any older parts you arenít going to use -- please make them available to the slower folks (folks like me and many others on the forum etc.) so they can be recycled and put back on the road in the original style cars.
And of course you might also want to consider a vintage speedster see: http://www.nwvs.org/
And for the regulars on the board -- no I haven't gone "native" but some of the hotrod folks have come over to the dark side (you know any color you want so long as it is black (I know technically only for the 1915-1925 USA Ts). And being polite -- may just help Taylor to feel welcome to come back if he ever wants to see a different side of the automobile hobby.
Hap l9l5 cut off
If that is the complete frame number then you have a really early 1928 Model A possibly built in late '27.
In additton to posting photos here you might want to post this question on ford barn.com to the Model A guys.
Here are some pics. The car belongs to a friend of mine, and I am doing the build. I have pulled the powertrain, and the body has been moved to locate the frame numbers, but other than that the car is as he bought it, so sorry that there aren't any extra parts for sale. Again, any help is greatly appreciated.
Arrrggghhh, photos won't upload due to the size. Help.
Keith, I am aware of what I am building, but I still need to identify the original car. It didn't come with a title and that is why I am researching to find out more specifics. We live in Idaho and our laws are more lax than more populated states and if it resembles a model t it will be titled as such, so I need to find out the year for sure. Thanks, Taylor.
Make the picture file size smaller. I think the maximum is now 250KB. 800x600 is a good picture size to display.
We need to see detailed images of the frame and body to determine the year. The number you posted is not a standard used in the production of Model Ts in the US. It probably wouldn't matter any way--Just pick a year.
Model A axle and frame. I can see where the steering box mounts. Scott
There we go, just a little better. If you guys need any more info let me know. Thanks, Taylor
Is there a limit to the amount of pics? I can take as many as needed to determine what this is. Thanks, Taylor
Yes, I think that is a A frame.
On this particular forum folks get upset when someone titles a street rod as a original car because when accidents happen and such the news reports it to be a T or A or whatever. And then the general public thinks our original cars are unsafe because of a possible failure of a component involved in the build of the street rod. Not saying your build is not safe, just explaining why some folks may seem a bit rough about the subject.
It would be better for all hobbies involved to title it as a home-built replica.
Yes, an A frame, and it's too bad that frame was chosen, as that low a number would have been a bit valuable to an authentic restoration. Front axle appears to be around '33-34, rear end obviously something else more modern. Radiator Shell and cowl section appear to be late T, but the only parts I can see as T, except MAYBE the rear spring, but it could be later, A or V-8.
As I see it there is not enough of any one car here to call this car a Ford T or A or anything--it's a homebuilt, and should be registered as such. Putting a T radiator shell on a car does not make it a T, just as putting a Rolls Royce Radiator shell on a VW Bug doesn't make it a RR.
Taylor - Titeling a streetrod like this as a Model T is a sore subject with me. When one of these has an accident it makes makes genuine Model T's look bad, and it does happen every once in awhile. Check these threads from Mid - April, 2015 for an example:
Yes, living in Idaho, a less populated state, may have more lenient restrictions for registration, however, the word is out and many states now require pictures for an older car before registration is issued, just to prevent this type of situation. Here in Wisconsin you wouldn't be able to get a title describing this type of car as a Model T. To be registered as a Model T it should have a Model T engine and period correct wheels and tires.
I'm sorry if I offended you about this, but this is a pet peeve of mine and I feel very strongly about it.
Hey Keith, No offense taken. We each have to follow our own path. My automotive interests lie in a completely different area. The reason I am here is because I know very little about these cars and the friend that bought this car(as you see it) got a receipt for a '27 model t, but no title, so any education you guys can give me is greatly appreciated. The gal at the inspection office said it would be titled as a reconstructed hot rod, but the fact that you guys have recognized this as an A has given me a lot of info already and I do appreciate it. Now looking at the pics of the body can you tell me what it is? The doors have been welded shut. Thanks, Taylor
The cowl and the underside of the cowl only is Ford Model T, 1926. A true '27 cowl would have 4 holes formed (the 4th a mfg. alignment hole) in the upper side for the windshield stanchions, '26 have only 3.
The rest of the body, the firewall, interior bracing, side panels, rear flat panel is all recent, but not really nicely, fabricated sheet metal.
This is what a real T '26 runabout (roadster in non- period Model T lingo) looks like.
And here is what a 'street rodded' '26 would better look like, this one made from parts of a runabout (front end and doors, and sub rails, but with rear tub from a T touring car, welded together with patch panels for a 're-created "roadster". A bit more craft used here.
That was my point, the only T parts I see are the radiator shell and the cowl section--can't tell, but isn't the dash something else too--and MAYBE the rear spring; but I think that's from an A, and Taylor, somethings not quite right there, you shouldn't see daylight between the spring leaves as seen in your photo. And, since it's going to be titled as a manufactured car, probably doesn't matter what year the cowl part is! The back of the fabricated body more resembles a '28-29 A roadster pickup body with the flat back panel--but mind you I said "resembles" because it's the same basic shape, but without any details (belt molding, rear panel reinforcing ridges, etc.).
Thanks guys, I really do appreciate the input. When I received this project the doors had already been welded shut, plus whatever other hacking the jackwagon did to this steel body, and on top of that the entire body was covered in bondo, in some places as thick as 3/8s of an inch. I've got around 15 hrs. just stripping the body. Thanks for all the info. Taylor