My hub plate on a rear tt wheel seems realy but stuck and to date nevr needed a torch much any suggestions on getting the plate off the hub
Bob, do you mean the outside plate through which go the 6 bolts? They can be a bear. I have had success cleaning up every trace of paint and rust from the hub outboard of the plate so there is nothing to get in the way of the plate coming off. Then the plate needs to be driven around the hub using a drift in one of the square holes in the plate. This can be used to free up the plate on the hub. If you park it away from the bolt hole, you can use a punch through the back of the hub to persuade the plate to come off.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
In the case that you "mangle" the hub plates, they will flatten nicely working them in a hydraulic press.
Use a punch inside the bolt holes at an angle.
Go around and around trying to get the plate to rotate. Use some penetrating oil of your choice and beat on the punch. It might distort the square hole a little, but the bolts will take care of that when you bolt it back together.
Bob, you say no acetylene torch is available; do you have a hydraulic press available? I place those 1" thick bars on either side of the hub under the flange plates. Then I place a 1/4" brass scrap on top of the hub to protect the hub threads ( more important for the front hubs) My penetrant of choice is PB Blaster. After high speed wire brushing the plate/hub interface I use this penetrant. Do this first and allow time for the liquid to penetrate. When the plate breaks loose from the hub, it's with a whimper. Unlike using a torch where it breaks away sounding like a rifle shot. Good luck!
Yes the hub plate tt truck rear wheel yes i doe all i gotton it to move but all i done is mushroom my large punchs at both ends
I dont have a press i soaking it with pb blaster
I dont need the hub flange just the hub as im making wheel adapters
George House, user of PB Blaster, take note of this.
I use "Tap Magic" on EVERYTHING, especially galled threads about to snap. It seems to creep much better than WD, ZEP, and most canned penetrating oils in my experience.
Thanks for the info Steve! I'm going to mix up a batch and give it a try. Any issues with the Acetone evaporating or do you guys keep it in a sealed container?
Thanks much for the info as well
Got the wheel apart so i can let it soak form the inside out
Hey Bob ! I need 3 TT rear hub flanges. Will pay American money! You want to sell 1 or more?
I get enough heat off a propane torch to do most things. I heat up the metal that surrounds the part I want freed, not too hot just warm enough to squirt some penetrating oil. let it cool and try it again. repeat the process. works wonders.
Well i got it cut the spokes i was trying save the wood for a table
I cleaned the area under the spokes used my #15 mallet pounded on the plate down and then cleaned the other part of the hub them drift punched it off the plate center is .005 smaller dia then the hub not sure why
George sent you a PM
I realize that you are not the author of the penetrating fluid comparison that you posted, and as such my comment is not directed to you.
How much reliance should one place in an analysis that includes "WD40" as a penetrant?
For those unfamiliar with WD40 it's purpose is to displace water. It is not a penetrating fluid.
I'll stick with PB Blaster and Kroil.