Model T Touring

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Model T Touring
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Merle O. Tanner on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 09:29 pm:

I am building a Model T "Rat Rod" from a combination of parts. I have a 1925 engine and I believe the frame is a 1925 as well. The touring body has the "T" shaped molding on both sides of the rear body panel and I have been told that molding was only on the 26 and 27, is that correct?
My second question pertains to mounting the body to the frame. I purchased a 26-27 hardwood mounting block kit along with mounting hardware. The frame mounting bolts are 1" long and the wood is thicker. See link: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/body-blocks
Where and how are these blocks used?
I purchased the pull rods for the hand brake and they have an offset near one end. Does that offset go at the wheel end or at the hand brake lever end? See link http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_t/model-t-ford-hub-brake-pull-rod-right- or-left-stamped-end.htmlon part:
thanks
Merle


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 09:39 pm:

The 26 and 27 Ford touring cars had the rear door hinges on the front of the rear doors.
'25 and earlier were just opposite, they were on the back of the doors so you had the so-called suicide doors in the back.
Also there was a cowl vent that opened up so you could fill the cowl mounted gas tank.
Seems to me there are questions here you should have asked before you ordered parts.
I would think the wooden blocks would still work mounting the late body to an early frame.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 10:38 pm:

My suggestion would be to first determine exactly what you have. Some parts interchange among all years and some do not. Post good photos of the engine/transmission, chassis, body, rear axle & brakes, etc., etc., and find out what's 26-27 and what's earlier. Once that's all sorted out you can get some idea of how to proceed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Merle O. Tanner on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 11:06 pm:

thanks, I will take pictures of the chassis and post them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 03:07 am:

1909-25 the frame had four brackets for body mounting. 1926/27 frames has six and they're in different places than on the earlier chassis. The body blocks for 26/27 bodies goes into the U-channel sections of the body subframe. Earlier bodies had wooden framing, no subframe so the body blocks weren't needed.

Here's a frame drawing showing body bracket locations 1909-25: http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/FPIframe.pdf

And here's a drawing with 1926/27 measurements: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1926-27.pdf

I have put my 26/27 roadster body on an earlier frame by moving/ adding brackets and replacing the rear cross member with the wider 26/27 style, so it's possible to mix years if you absolutely wants to use the stuff you have, but in USA it would make more sense to find correct year parts that fits right away - they're easier to find than here in Sweden.

Any offset or bend in the brake rods is in the rear. 09-25 rods are slightly longer than 26/27. What rear axle do you have? 8" brake drum is '25 and earlier, 11" drum is '26/27.

'26 engines were made beginning in late july 1925. Maybe your '25 engine is '26 style? Wider low and brake pedal compared to the reverse is a tell tale sign.

(Message edited by Roger K on May 12, 2015)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 10:02 am:

The T shaped molding is spot welded to the center panel of all touring cars from 23 to 27 and possibly before. My 25 has it. But I used the one that came from a 24 body to replace it. I just cut the spots welds off and didn't bother to spot weld it back on since the quarter panels are bolted to each side with no less than half a dozen bolts. The supplier catalogs will tell you it's only used on the enclosed cars for 26 and 27, but that's not so.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Merle O. Tanner on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 04:22 pm:

Thanks everyone.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Merle O. Tanner on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 - 09:51 am:

I have another question specific to the body block mounting kits sold by both Mac's Auto Parts and Snyder's Antique Auto Parts. Also Mac's sells a body mounting hardware kit that has 6 bolts and they are only 1" long while the blocks are thicker. When I called both companies they referred me to this forum and stated they do not know how the items they are selling are used. That makes no sense. These kits include 6 pieces. Four blocks have two holes and a step down cut out. Two blocks are shaped like a 1 " x 4" and have one hole drilled in the wide dimension. Looking at the above diagram for 26-27 it appears to me there are 8 mounting points, 3 on each side of the main frame and two holes on the outer edge of the frame cross over above the leaf spring.
Can anyone help with more details on this question? Where are the two 1" x 4" shaped blocks used?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 - 10:08 am:

It would be easier to answer if we know what kind of parts you have to work with. Pictures from several angles would help :-)

Here's a thread about the body blocks:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/363592.html?1369581821

Body blocks are for '26/'27 all steel passenger car bodies only. They need longer body mounting bolts than the earlier cars. Maybe Mac's kit was meant for earlier cars. They're the least knowledgeable among vendors, call Chaffin's or Lang's (for example) if you want to talk with vendors that knows their products.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 - 10:54 am:

Can we see a picture of the body that you have? Some of this might be negated if we have a clear picture of what you are working with.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Merle O. Tanner on Thursday, May 21, 2015 - 07:58 pm:

Thanks. I will contact Chaffin's and Lang. Roger, I think you are correct. Mac's bolts must be for an earlier model but they have them shown as 26-27. I sent them an email explaining what they show as 26-27 touring is incorrect. See this link for the body blocks I am referring to from Snyder's Mac's look the same for 26-27 touring ( http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/hardwood-body-blocks )The link you provided does help although the blocks shown are similar they are not what Snyder and Mac is selling. Their blocks with the step have 2 holes and these blocks have 1 hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Thursday, May 21, 2015 - 10:54 pm:

Merle

The brake rod clevises go to the rear of the car


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