Greetings! I've read several posts about lowering the steering tube on speedsters and was hoping for some more info, pics and/or links. I read about the wedge block that the lower bracket mounts to (through),and I can fab a nice bracket to square the upper (firewall)mount, flush with the dash,,, is that all there is to it? Then just locate where the hole needs to be on the firewall (dash)and cut out the desired location? Is is going to need any pitman arm and/or drag link modifications? This is a custom, wood, flat firewall using '21 steering components on a '26 chassis. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Daryl in Mt. Pleasant, N.C.
I think you've covered most of what's needed. Prop it up first in the desired location with a seat and test so you know for sure it'll be comfortable.
The pitman arm and drag link will work with a lower steering tube within reasonable limits, but you'll probably have to bend the low pedal outwards to the left. This will cause adjustments of the floor boards and you'll likely have a hard time to fit your left foot and leg with the hand brake in the standard position. I had to move the hand brake lever outwards, rearwards is another option - then you may need two connected hand brake cross shafts to get neutral with the lever.
Changing one part of the T often causes other modifications..
Thanks for the info Roger! I'm building it for my Boss (and friend), so it's a "build-to-fit" project all the way.
Don't forget that the seat should be as close to what will be the final one used.
A friend made a temp seat, forgot it would be padded and when finished it was too close to the wheel for anyone to sit behind
About the same question.
A few weeks ago someone posted a film of the English "Golden Ford" on this forum. For this project the steering was lowered and the steering wheel was set in the middle of the frame.
I wonder how this was done??
You need to check the pitman arm clearance after lowering as it will probably require bending to provide clearance for the drag link. KGB
Hey Daryl, post pics!
The owner doesn't want to relocate the steering (yet), but thanks for the info for when he does! I haven't even built the floor, seat riser, etc...so it'll be awhile. I should retract what I said about using '21 steering components. He has 2 front axles and I picked the nicest of the two to rebuild, 1 was on the '26-27 frame when we rolled it into the shop. here's a few pics. I just did a mock-up dash to measure, check, decide, learn...
That's the best way, do a mock up. Sometimes using heavy cardboard for the fire wall and steering lowering is good to do.
Years ago did a strip down speedster, using plywood. For the column, used a thick wood block, cut at an angle, that dropped the steering. But had to 'splay' the pedals around the lower part of the steering column. Depending on the drop, you may have to either bend apart the pedal spacing, or cut off the top of some of the pedals.
This one used the metal firewall, cut out the opening side, and relocate it down for the steering column drop.
Did this one similar to above.
To lower the rake on the column in my Speedster, my grandfather had inverted the column, and built a bracket that mounts to the 2x6 side rails which the column flange (now also inverted) mounts to. The lower column bracket that mounts to the frame has spacers cut at the correct angle to hold the column securely. Please see the pics below.
This is the bracket that secures the flange. The top of the reverse pedal had to be cut off to clear the column, and the clutch was bent to the left.
These are of the lower bracket and spacers that mount to the frame.
Another shot of the flange mounting bracket.
This shows the resulting rake of the column after mounting.
That looks great Dave! We're going for the style of the white #3 one, even though its the wrong frame. Do you happen to have pics, dimensions of the "wooding" part of the project? I'm winging it through this process with pics on this forum
Don't have any wood dimensions. Just these sketches from high school days of a dream.
Then 10 years later in '78 got a '15 chassis and used the ideas to do the body wood. Just measured as I went. "in a mind's eye" for fitting the parts and body frame.
Plywood sheet floor, firewall and 2x4 for frame rails. Measure and cut. Try things, then once it looked right, screwed and glued, primed and painted a racy gray color
Note the cut down clutch lever, and the bent over tip of the reverse pedal to clear the lowered steering column.