Fan Hub assembly advice needed please

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Fan Hub assembly advice needed please
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Tuesday, May 26, 2015 - 05:10 pm:

Guys,for my 27 I purchased a Ball bearing Fan hub and a correct length bolt. I notice the bolt is very tight and can't be pushed in, I'm picking that a light rub with fine sand paper until it slides firmly thru might be a safer option than pressing it in?
The other point is "Texas T' suggest the following
- "The spacer provided must be used between the hub and the mounting arm or bracket. It locks the inner bearing races when the shaft is tightened. The inner races must be locked to achieve proper operation of the ball bearings".
I didn't buy mine from them so no spacer supplied, langs, Snyders & Macs dont provide or suggest this spacer?
Should I install the hub without a spacer like most probably do or should I make one up?
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom 30 miles N of Memphis TN on Tuesday, May 26, 2015 - 06:28 pm:

If no spacer was supplied you will have to make one. Install the hub without one but don't turn the bolt in all the way. To determine how thick the spacer needs to be, pull the hub against the bolt towards the front of the car. I used a straight edge to ensure the alignment with the lower pulley was correct. Now determine the spacer size by the gap between the arm and the back of the hub (or by how much the hub slides back and forth). Knock one of the old bushings out of the old hub and cut you spacer from that. A lathe would work best but you can cut it with a hack saw and square it up with a file if you don't have access to a lathe.
You might call TTP and ask them the dimension of the spacer. You could probably get what you need at the hardware store for a dollar. Of course you can make one from an old bushing in less time than it would take you to go to the store.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Wednesday, May 27, 2015 - 10:29 am:

Why bother? There is nothing wrong with the original shaft and bushings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, May 27, 2015 - 10:37 am:

Kevin,

I would take the matter up with the supplier you bought it from. Since that wasn't Texas T, I would ignore their suggestion for now. Maybe the Lang's/Snyder's/Mac's plan is to have the press fit that you find you have. That might eliminate the need for a spacer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom 30 miles N of Memphis TN on Wednesday, May 27, 2015 - 10:50 am:

The last one I installed went too far aft and the belt was way out of alignment (I knew it couldn't run that way). I never read any instructions about a spacer but made one to distance it out so the belt would line up. As stated above, I made mine out of one of the old bushings in the old hub. I have a metal lathe so it wasn't as big a deal for me as it would be many.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 03:44 am:

I fitted the new fan shaft in a drill press and run it up with sand paper on the shank a few goes until it know fits snug into the hub. If I can find a sleeve the correct size (to act as a spacer) to rest against the hub bearing. I can then pack up the motor side of the sleeve with washers to get the exact alignment above the bottom pulley.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 06:08 am:

Kevin, I think you are going about this the wrong way. The fan shaft is stepped and when installed it is threaded into the fan arm up to the shoulder. It is then locked with a castellated nut and split pin.

This means the fan bearings have no preload on them, and there is no real need for a spacer. They should be a press fit in the fan hub. If you are worried they may shift in the hub, then a spacer between them will stop the shift inwards. The fan hub should be a slide fit onto the shaft, just enough to stop the inner races turning on the shaft.

Alignment of the fan assembly can be affected by fitting spacer washers between the fan arm and the timing cover boss.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 06:41 am:

Allan, Kevin has a '27 and the 26/27 style fan assembly was a bit different from the arrangement with a fan arm connected to the timing cover used up to 1925.

I have no direct experience shimming the fan in alignment since I run without a fan. Works great as long as I stay out of parades (and there are not many parades where T's participate over here, so no real loss)

Here's a drawing made by Jim Patric:
26 27 fan

(Message edited by Roger K on June 05, 2015)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 07:20 am:

Thanks guys, Alan ..I purchased a new ball bearing hub and a new long (correct length) bolt with a square end for tightening. This new bolt didn't come with a castle nut and no hole drilled for a split pin. I have purchased a nylon lock nut which should hold. If not I'll find a hex nut and drill a hole for a split pin.
It sounds like I have the shaft down to the correct size as it slides through the hub firmly now and with slight downward pressure (the fan belt should supply this) it spins the two bearing and not just around the shaft. The above drawing is the correct version mounting when its the factory hub however where the felt washer sits there is now a space allowing movement. One of the suppliers supplies a spacer the other 3 main ones don't. The above post was suggesting an easier option than machining an exact fitting spacer I could use a small spacer and then pack this out using washers. If I guess the exact size I wont need a washer or if the spacer is too long I can trim. Its just that the spacer needs to press against the inner shaft face of the bearing only (stationary) and not the rubber part of the bearing as this spins. Hence I thought a firmish fitting sleeve might be easier for me to source.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:34 am:

I can't understand why some people go to so much trouble to put in reproduction parts that aren't correct in the first place! There is nothing wrong with the original Ford fan hub!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 11:28 am:

Kevin: I believe the entire fan shaft is hardened, it may be very difficult to drill a hole for a cotter pin. respectfully, jb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 08:27 pm:

Kevin, sorry I missed the particular application you are dealing with. Thanks Roger. Much of what I said still applies to your 26-7 fitment too. The stepped shaft bolts up tight in the round piece in the bracket. The clearance you are chasing is problematic only if the bearings are a loose fit on the shaft. If you assemble them to the shaft with the appropriate Loctite product, the hub will not shift on the shaft. The ball bearings need no felt sealer. You don't need spacer washers if the hub cant move on the shaft. If you are still concerned, you could take the tension out of a suitable sized spring washer and install it as a spacer, the smaller outer diameter of a spring washer only contacting the inner race of the bearing.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:38 pm:

Allan I had thought of loctite but didn't want to make it permanent but on reflection why not, its only a $20 bolt. Thanks for your input.
Larry I am sick of the grease/oil splatter on my bonnet and firewall, after cleaning it all off twice I've decided to go this way. Everybody has reproduction parts in some manner on their T and the amount and degree I go on my T will be set by my experience and needs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, June 06, 2015 - 02:39 am:

Kevin, mild heat will break Loctite grip. Just enough so that any paint will not burn. Easy on the fan set-up. Take off the blade and heat the head of the shaft.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Weeds on Saturday, June 06, 2015 - 04:12 am:

Ok thanks Allan


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