Would the experts on 1912 Model T's please review the link and let me know what you think about this car. Is it a correct 1912? Does the rear end look cracked to you? I am not looking for anything more then constructive information because I am interested in bidding. What would be your top dollar estimate?
to register for this on line site requires too much personnel infromation???
Send me a PM.
Dennis, apart from the metal coilbox, it looks a pretty correct 1012 to me. Interesting water pump and reversed fan arm set up. Looks like an early restoration, with preservation of the original upholstery.
I would think the current bid is way low.
Allan from down under.
Well I'm no expert, but having a '12 Commercial Roadster Pickup that I'm continuing to "fix up" this is what I noticed. Looks like a wrong coil box, front springs don't look to be tapered, rear springs do. Looks like the rear axle housing is defnitely cracked to me, or somebody dribbled something like caulking over it, the carbide tank should be all brass, not black and brass. Got tired of looking at so many pictures I really didn't continue on. I'm sure there's others with far more expertise in the judging of this year car that will chime in. With all that it needs, I'd say it's pretty much at what I'd give as a top dollar!
Looks like a high head on it as well.
Also no "triple twist" brass bulb horn or tubing parts. No speedometer or any of the drive parts. Not correct carb. These plus the items Tim noted appear to me the incorrect items. Looks pretty original otherwise. Correct engine & head?
As an aircraft Inspector I look for cracks for a living, and I would say the rear end is not cracked. It looks to be a spider web draped over it. I love that car by the way!
Mike, I've got a question. When I hear someone speak of "magnafluxing" a block are they, in reality, checking the block with dye penetrant, or are they using mag particle by using the copper prods and dry powder. I know there's a risk of causing hot (hard) spots in the casting. I doubt the Machine shops in my area have eddy current or x-ray capabilities and I really doubt they're lifting the blocks and putting them between the pads in a magna-flux machine and spraying it down with liquid magnetic particle suspension. I guess now that I think of it maybe the prods and dry mag particle would work as long as the inspector was selective where he placed the prods in order to avoid hard spots in critical areas. What are your thoughts? I've been checking the blocks with dye penetrant.
It looks like a very early "restoration" which back then was a coat of paint. The top had been replaced at some point, coil box, front springs, and carbide generator were all replaced "to make it go, most people won't know." It has the correct wishbone with a nice accessory brace.
I believe ALL the upholstery (except the top) to be original. Robert Poane and my other friends restoring 1912 cars: Are you guys copying these pictures and taking notes??? This is the real deal and the way it is supposed to be done.
If the car was mine, I would clean it up a preserve it as is. I'd maybe replace some of the incorrect parts as they are found. A car is only original once.
: ^ )
In addition to what others have posted, the car has clearly seen some touring time, as per the various club plaques and other indicators. Motor serial would make this a Feb/March assembly, where I believe the rearend is a late 12 replacement. Can't see under the car, so no information here describes the motor pan and driveshaft, which would both have been equity items for this car. Interior looks to be in good condition and should cleanup. Not sure whether this body would have used a double twist horn since single twist replaced this at some 1912 point, and would expect double twist horn to body mounting hole evidence if there had been one. Looks like there is a dash opening where a single twist horn could have been, however, this dash looks like a replacement to me. Assuming the motor can be started, and the car is drivable, I'll guess 13-15K?. If not operable, then could be half of this.
Yes, it has some incorrect parts I'd replace, but if I had the time, space, and dough for another T I'd be bidding on this one. I agree the "crack" on the rear axle is a cobweb.
Thank you all who have responded and thanks to several members who have sent me private messages about this car. Your knowledge and the information you have provided have been very helpful. I'm still reviewing my options and have not made any decisions yet.
With only one day and 7 hours left in the auction it looks like someone may be getting a good deal on the 1912. It's only at $7,700 we will see how fast it climbs near the ending time.
The car sold for $14,700. But not to me.
Dennis; were you bidding on it? I think it sold for a very reasonable price considering how nice it looked!
I was very interested in it and trying to schedule time off to go see it but couldn't get my schedule adjusted before the auction ended. I don't like to spend hard earned cash without a visual inspection first.
Someone got a great deal!