Been reading a bit about the two piece crank club , so my question is this , what do you.need to do to avoid membership? I'm in the process of getting my 26 Tudor roadworthy ,it's an original running (now) car , has been off the roAd since the 50's and doesn't appear to have been rebuilt ( nothing looks new anyhow ) runs on mag and starts fine etc.. Is there anything that I need to worry about ? Or that I need to look for ? Compression is good , doesn't smoke at all . Seems to need band adjustment a bit but drives nicely from what little I know should I be nervous ???
You could invest in one of these
#1 Gear car properly for your driving terrain.
#2 Don't try to beat Barney Oldfield.
#3 Don't lug engine at low speed or under load.
I know in the back of my mind my crank could break at any time BUT that does not stop me from driving the car. While I am no Barney Oldfield, I am not a Grandma ether.
Probably the most important thing is to have a straight crankcase, so it doesn't put a strain on the crankshaft. If the pan is bent so that the ball cap is not dead on straight with the three main bearings in the engine, it will cause the crankshaft to bend with each rotation. You know what happens to a piece of steel when you bend it back and forth repeatedly.
I got my first T in '58 or 9.
I've driven a lot of miles and actually thought it wouldn't happen to me.
Well, it happened!
About a year ago.
Ripped the rear main outa the block.
I'm building an engine with a Model A crank.
They are unpredictable things crankshafts, can go for ever or break tomorrow, I sent several in for crack testing and grinding several months ago and to my surprise, the one that was still servicable was a crank that had thrown a rod, smashed the block to pieces, pushed the piston through the head and tried to tie the rod into a knot.
I have heard of Model A cranks breaking when driving in a Model A.
It is not a question of 'will', it is a question of 'when'. Presuming you have a 26 crank, and the 'eyes' on the hogshead are bolted up to the block... Then you are starting with the best combination possible.
Don't lug-n-chug...learn to not do so on up shifting too...and you will be doing the best you can do there too.
I have seen pictures of Model A cranks that have broken. I have never seen one outside of a picture. I have had in the last 3 months 2 Model T's with broken original cranks. Both were replaced with Scat cranks so the owners should never have this problem again. Both stock cranks broke while the engines were running fairly reasonably and not at any high speed or under any excessive load like lugging. Original cranks are fickle things and using one is a krap shoot at best.
I have managed to run our 13 touring for 15 yrs. with out breaking the crank. However, I have purchased a Scat crank and I'm in the process of building up a replacement engine.
Having a straight pan, balancing the engine and transmission and trueing up the transmission may have helped my old engine survive this long.
You run a big risk of busting out the rear main web if the crank breaks. May also damage the transmission.
I have only seen one model A crank broken that was modified to run in a model T block. That one broke in an area similar to where other model T cranks that I have seen were broken. The rear flange that was welded on did not break off.
I have modified a 28 chev. crank to fit in a model T block. They are a strong crank with the same stroke as the T. The down side is the pistons for this set up are no longer a standard stock item that was once available off the shelf. The 28 chev. cranks are more difficult to find in comparison to model A cranks. Both the 28 chev. and model A cranks require nearly the same modifications to the model T block and pan in order to make it all work. The model A crank provides 1/4" more stroke in comparison to the 28 chev. and T cranks.
Today, the easy way is just...."Belly Up" and pay the price for a new Scat crank.
Our T run fifty four years that we have driven the car and we think it is the original crank, it was a db crank. No one here in the Winnipeg club has broken a crank I was the first. I will mount that broken crank on the wall as it gave 101 years of service with out a problem, I hope the scat crank lasts as long. Cheers Colin
Guys how can you not chug-a-lug? There is such a huge difference between 1st & top. when I pull off I go as fast as possible without winding it out and I time my change for when I'm over the crest of the road so I'm slightly rolling downhill before I change but its still a chugging process before speed lifts up. Every corner I turn in town is a chug and on the open road I feel I don't want to do 10 mph up every hill so I hold out as long as possible without really having it overload and bang about. I cant see how its avoided without a 2 speed diff?
I drove a 13 with a 3-1 the other day and that's a heap worse so mine hasn't got a lower diff ratio.
Thanks a lot Norman...you just burst my bubble!
Seriously, any piece of machinery can fail at any time.
It's under the heading of s&%t happens.
I get my foot in that bucket every now & then.
It happend to me last week, new crank went in 2 days ago. I must say thank you to Mr Tucket for sorting me out so quickly!
Anyway my gearbox and flywheel are balanced, also my flywheel is half the weight of the original. I had just clocked 8'000 miles with the car when it happend, all was good I was trundling along not fast but not chugging. And BANG it went. No warning at all.
The youngest original cranks are 88 years old, that's a long time and probably has accumulated abuse over the years that would make a modern crank shudder. Try not to over work the engine and when it is time to rebuild it replace with a scat crank for piece of mind
Hi Travis: Perhaps you have read the current post titled: "Not a happy bunny---2 pce. crank club- May 30th 10:47 AM." I cannot emphasis enough the importance of the crankshaft, the transmission assembly and the 4th main ball cap all being held properly in a straight line as is easily possible with the '26-'27 blocks. For the early blocks, you have the upgrade I described in that posting.(Indeed prior to engine assembly, we electronically balance the lot to help minimize destructive forces.) Regards;Tom Forsythe
I remember being gently told off for displaying my broken crankshaft and camshaft at a car show...I gather it would have dissuaded people from becoming Model T owners if they knew that's what was in store.
Well, it's a fact of life owning a regularly driven T with an original crankshaft that it's likely to happen.
It took me seven years to get my initiation into the 2 piece club.
Knowing it would happen at some time, I had my back up plan ready and waiting, so all went as painlessly as it could.
John H, did you break your cam shaft too?
How did that happen? Was it collateral damage when the crank broke?
(never heard about broken cam shafts before so I'm curious..)
I tried not to join the club. I thought I belonged to enough clubs already. But 4 years ago after 19 years of staying out I finally joined the 2 Piece Crank Club.
I had just driven 75 miles, stopped the car in the driveway for 10 minutes and when I went out to start the car I pulled up on the crank handle and the crank snapped just as the car started. Broke right between #1 and #2. When I tore the engine down I found that there was a void at the place where the crank snapped. It was an early '10 crank and I was amazed that it had lasted almost 100 years given the fact that it was defective from the start. Fortunately, no damage to the block and I replaced it with an EE crank.
Discussions about broken cranks, two piece valves, etc. had me purchase a 26 motor for my 19 because I want to preserve the original motor that has never had more than the head off.
Now that the motor swap is underway I am trying to figure out what I need to do to protect it.