Part IV of the 2015 edition of "Show Us Your T Doodlebug/Conversion Tractor" was getting too long. Time for Part V. Here is the link to Part IV
Installed my new Berg's radiator, modified radiator shell and hood on the power unit today (using Celtic Rust to haul it around the yard - which is what I will also do at shows and have tried to make them match patina-wise). Had to notch the hood side panel to accommodate the spark control, which is mounted to the frame:
Looks sharp Ron, one more ready for the show season.
I got some more work done on the "new" engine for the doodlebug tonight, after hooking up a temporary fuel line I cranked the engine around to make sure it was in neutral then connected a battery charger to the coil box -a coil immediately began to buzz, so I used the crank to advance the engine a bit to stop the buzzing, low and behold the engine fired right up, it was retarded quite a bit and only ran what fuel was in the bowl, but I was pretty surprised.
After hooking up the radiator I wanted to run it a little bit before coming inside, the engine really starts great never more than two quarter turns, it free started on hooking up the power on one occasion. I had sprayed oil in the cylinders before I put the engine in the garage attic, so it was smoking a bit I don't know how long the engine may have sat or in what conditions so the rings may need to settle in a little? -of course who knows how worn the rings and cylinders are.
Did you get the new one yet Zac?!
Ima workin on it. Having trouble getting a free neutral in it, need to look into some in depth.
Ron this spring has just not been working for me, when I had money on the counter for the bug, Don was not back from wintering in Arizona, now that he is back we had expenses come up that I used the money for... hopefully with my next pay check this Friday I will be able to skim enough off the top to buy the bug. It has been pretty frustrating.
Life gets in the way like that sometimes. You'll get it eventually. I cannot wait to see more pictures of it!
Spent a few hours messing with the transmission today trying to get a free neutral. It took quit a bit of fiddling, but I got it pretty decent. First time I have ever had to go through all that, so a new experience was had. I felt so confident in my work, I asked the wife on a maiden voyage. We took it up the road, maybe 3/8 mile road trip. I really need some seat time getting to driving these T's.
Those AG tires look GREAT Chad!!
Ditto on the Ag's! they look wide, is that because the rim is 16 inch?
I see a new set of head lights and a triangle too your rod legal(ish). The 'bug is really coming around now! The tires just make it look great
When I first got my 'bug I bought a new triangle with the idea to go shopping along the road for a suitable "well used" triangle to trade for. I lucked out and a neighbor stopped by, he had one on his farmall I could get, the fading and wear was perfect.
I ran the new engine a bit today, no smoke, but time will tell how good the engine really is. With any luck I might get things all buttoned up by the end of the week
Thanks guys. I am indeed trying to get it to conform to NY slow moving vehicle laws. The local Ice Cream stand is about 3 miles away so that would be a great goal I think. And if I feel really ambitious, drive it to work--about 3.5 miles away. So I am in the process of headlights, and I also need to do 4 flashing amber lights (hazards), and 1 rear left mounted red light. The trick is getting mostly period pieces. Being mine is built more of a war time / post war style, it makes it a little easier. I am trying to find 4 bullet /beehive lens lamps to use that don't cost a fortune. So far it looks like some motorcycle ones might work--they will just need to be aged if new. I will convert all the bulbs to LED, just for the electrical draw factor--and brightness when on. Best to be seen in my opinion.
Zac, the triangle by NYS law must be replaced when faded, that is probably interpretation of the law though. Up by you, I think you could get away with a lot more. I am skeptical how my license plate would go over being it is not registered. I am thinking about changing the state so it might not be as much as a problem--I hope.
The rear wheels are 16x6" and the tires are 8-16. And they are truly 8" sidewall to sidewall, and this is the recommended wheel size for them. I think they about 31" tall if I remember right. I think it looks freakin' awesome. Again, I realized the other day that the features put this more war time era on the build, vs. your guys actual period builds.
Also thinking of a couple of rear fenders. I scored a beat up rust dual wheel trailer fender for free that could work real easy with some homemade mounts. My concern is covering the look of the rear tires. Opinions?
A friend of mine runs old Ford N-series fenders on the rear of his A doodlebugs. They look good with the big Ford script on the top. He picks them up pretty cheap - no more than $20 a pair. Trailer fenders could work as well - you'd do a good job making them work.
Chad - N-series fenders would not cover up the look of the tires.
I'm like Zac - small farming town, out in the country with lots of backroads to run. No one bothers me - previous Chief of Police (who retired after 30 years in the job) was an old car guy; he'd stop and BS with me when I was out on one of the fleet. Not sure about the new guy. In any case, I'd take into consideration the traffic on the roads to work/ice cream stand, time of day you were planning on driving, etc. People out where I am are used to traveling behind a farm tractor and are reasonably patient.
Period correct is not nearly important as the fact that she has been saved, she's running, has a renewed lease on life and someone is taking care of her - just don't use any Phillips screws in the process. ;)
Well said Ron: at lest it is being saved.
I have no doubt about making the fenders I have work, but doing it in a way that looks right is my fear. And being I only have one shot with what I have on hand is what makes me nervous.
I just looked at the N fenders, they might be a bit big, but I really dig the Ford script on them. My friend just saw the 'Bug in person the other day and commented how he liked the Ford logo on the floor boards (running boards).
As far as keeping the look, It is important to me to a certain degree--I don't have to be totally correct to the 20's or 30's, but not much after that I feel. I look at what I have on it and place it as I feel accordingly, and I am ok with that, as you guys say, at least it is saved and being used.
As far as being on the road. The street I am on, and the streets around me, are busy during normal traffic hours 7am-7pm weekdays. There are some exceptions--for example, I work 7-3:30, those are not peak hours, but there is traffic. On the weekend, I could go out on a Saturday or Sunday morning especially and encounter very few vehicles. When we went out last night, it was 6pm, and 1 car managed to get be hind me but I waved them by. So as you said, drive times definitely play a roll...and that 7 to 1 rear axle ratio does not help.
Funny you mention the Phillips screws. I have a couple holding the handles on the tool box---but I have a box of correct slotted screws to replace them as soon as I weather a few. Never in my life had I thought I would be using slotted screws so much.
Robertson drive (square) were US patented in 1911....
I keep a pile of old fasteners to re-use on the doodlebug and Chad can attest to my tendency to collect miscellaneous rusty metal for future reuse, but I generally just use what is close at hand. Although I don't like things to be too shiny or too obviously new, I don't go too nuts about everything being period.
If someone calls you on the use of Phillips you can just get historical on them:
Phillips developed his cruciform drive in 1933, GM licensed it for production use in 1937's cars. Apparently by 1939 85% of world fastener producers had licensed the technology. If you want to justify their period use then you can pretty much just say they were used when the doodlebug was built
Maybe so, but the slot heads do indeed look nicer on something this old in my opinion.
I remember slot heads still being available in the 90's at the hardware stores. I also remember moaning about having to use them with crappy screwdrivers. While I never push high end tools on others, my Snap On screwdrivers are well worth every penny for slotted screws.
Saw a stunning '32 BB flatbed at Bennington a few years ago - absolutely beautiful truck. The owner had deep pockets and it showed on the resto - simply gorgeous, better than she left the Rouge. Then I looked at the oak bed and saw the Phillips head screws - what was he thinking?!
Ill have to agree on "No Phillips heads" Its just a little thing, and one of my "pet peeves" but they do look "out of place" on a model T or any pre war vehicle. "Robertsons" are a different subjects as they were used on Canadian model Ts. Chad I have used close to 200 straight slot screws on the speedster project so far. The online screws I get from the vendor I suggested in a earlier thread are working great so far. I have only broken one screw so far. I run the screws in with a variable drill and a very tight fitting straight slot bit. Saves the hands from all the pain....
I often drive Phillips screws in with a drill, then back them out again (love a reversing drill). Then with the screw hole pre-cut by the Phillips screw, the slotted screw drives in easily (at least by comparison). The closer the size and thread match between the screws, the better.
A little bar soap (barely damp) helps the slotted screw go in also. I used to worry that the soap could allow the screw to become loose more easily. But I haven't had much trouble from that yet.
I love following your guys' doodlebug threads! I just wish I could have one of the ones my granfather built in the '30s or '40s.
Drive, and work all those belts and machinery, carefully, and enjoy, W2
Wayne - that is a great idea on using a Phillips to cut the hole for a slot head! Using that one the next time I'm working any wood pieces.
Donnie - I have no luck with a bit on a slot head (it inevitably slips and chews something up). I put a work glove on and run them in by hand. Going to try Wayne's pre-cut with a Phillips next time.
Ron, I forgot to mention, that I also pre drill all the holes with a proper pilot/shank/countersink drill bit.
Donnie, I pre-drill and countersink too, but it's still a muscle job. Going to try the Phillips on an electric drill to cut the threads next time and see if it goes any easier.
Ron, it goes MUCH easier. When I built the seat and tool box for the 'bug I did it this way--besides the predrill and countersink. It did two things. It allowed me to go find and buy the right size screw I wanted for the application immediately at the local big box store so assembly could start right away. It also allowed much easier installation of the slotted screws later on. I zipped them back out with the drill and easily turned in the slotted screws by hand.
If I actually owned a decent screwdriver it might help...
Agreed with pre-drilling, that is a necessity for any wood screw, same with soap, beeswax or the like, I have used liquid dish soap on construction stuff where I didn't care what it looked like.
Good call running in a Phillips first to cut threads. I nearly threw out several pounds of new slotted screws last fall when I was cleaning, but I saved them in the end maybe I will have to give them a try with pre-cut threads.
Been looking for another 20" rim with no luck but I found these 8.3x24 tires, tubes and rims for too cheap to pass up and I had the day off so I adapted them to the bug. They sure are nicer than the solid rubber I have been driving around on.
Lonnie - they look beautiful!! I've been wondering how your project has been coming. The last pics you posted, she was on jack stands in your garage. She is fantastic!! I love the fact she is TT-based. Do you have any pictures between the jackstands and these you could post?
Oh Hell Yea. That looks great!!!
I got to ask, can you show some detail pics of the adaptation of the rear wheels?
I too if you had been hammering away on that project. Great job so far!!
These 6 loop rims are off one of those foreign made utility tractors. Like any farmer I used what I had laying around and I have tons of steel. I needed to reduce the 6 bolt pattern by 1 1/8" all the way around so I took a chunk of 3/8" plate and made 3" square pieces with a 5/8" and a 1/2" hole at 1 1/8" center to center. I had the option of 4 different offsets but I sucked them in tight to stay as narrow as possible. They are as solid as sears. The wood spokes will be the weak link. I suppose I should have rounded the edges to clean them up a little but I like the rustic look.
For Ron or Chad.
Would you call at your first chance. Have something or access to. you might like
John - called twice and got your voice mail. Will try again tomorrow evening.
Lonnie, The 'Bug looks great, the wheel adapters are a good idea and I see a bit of wrecker hiding in the background in the one picture that should have a good story too..
Chad - I spoke with John and sent you an email.
A couple years ago I saw an old car in a field not too far from me and for whatever reason I had been thinking about it lately. This evening I decided to go looking and after a while I found the thing. What I didn't notice before is that there's what's left of a doodlebug beside it! Not much left, but she was definitely once a T:
The back axle is off something else, I think I've seen brakes like that on a Chevy. Neat to see some sort of accessory transmission on there too, should I be headed back to the field with some penetrating oil and a wrench set?
And no, it won't be following me home. The engine has a bunch of splits in the water jacket and I think it's the only thing holding parts of the chassis on. I can't lie though, my first thought was Speedster project...
Bring it home anyway? Seems like a good beginning to me.
Ya, Tim, that's what's called "In good restorable condition".....
Someday, somewhere, a T guy would be glad to find one like that!
I knew someone would say that. I do like it, like every doodlebug this thing oozes character and it's hard not to like. For my skill level though I would basically need a new everything. With the exception of possibly the front axle, head, and maybe some transmission parts, she's been stripped of just about everything serviceable. The block has its fair share of scars and come to think of it, the big split I found that I thought at the time was from coolant freezing wasn't even on the water jacket. That can't be a good sign.
It was a Canadian car if anyone's interested in that little detail, and there was a front fender and some body sheet metal pounded flat by the elements laying behind it. I briefly considered bringing the fender home with me so I could have a rusty thing to hang on the wall but I'm too honest for that sort of thing. Serial number started in C519 so it looks like it was made in October of '24.
I think everyone on here knows what I would suggest you do Tim!! She needs to be saved. The design on those rear wheels is straight from the 1936 Handy Man's Home Manual article on building a doodlebug.
Fabricated the fuel line for the power unit this weekend. She's almost done:
I'd be hauling those derelict cars home, I sure there are some good parts in there, aside from front end and possibly the frame.
Today my bug made it out of the garage under its own power the engine seems to run great, with the exception of over heating a bit. After running it around a bit the engine wanted to boil I think at low RPM's the water pump is restricting water flow compared to thermosiphon (the last engine did fine without a pump). I found a cow bell in an old barn the other week and installed in on the front axle to help rid the bug of any gremlins causing problems, maybe I just need to drive over more bumps or through tall grass(not that there is any grass to be found in the back yard...)
Nice plumbing Ron!
I did a little plumbing too but not as pretty as yours -notice there is no gas tank in sight any more. I tucked the fire extinguisher up under the cowl, I never thought it would fit, but it fits pretty well and there will be now fuel issues any more. I am still looking for a cheap beat up brass one to replace the stainless extinguisher I am using.
For those saying I ought to bring that mostly missing doodlebug home, I'll get my pickup going then think about it. As it is I'm already thinking about it far too much...
Great job Zach! Im sure the kids love it too.
Ron, looking good, I think you'll have it done for the show in a couple weeks.
Tim, get that pickup going. You know you want it. Is it something that needs to be checked by a landowner?
I have no progress to report, this is my busy season of working on others muscle cars. I was hoping to get the lights finished, but they are still just shells. I'll get there.
Next week is the Gallupville Gasup for anyone wishing to go, here is the web page http://www.thegasup.org/
And for those Facebookers (not me though):
Weather permitting, I will be there on Sunday with our Model T club
(Message edited by Chad Marchees on June 08, 2015)
"As it is I'm already thinking about it far too much..." I love peer pressure
-Chad, if there is no new baby on Sunday I will likely bring the kids to the gasup, wish I had a 4 door pickup, I would bring the doodlebug.. as is I doubt it will happen.
Did you try running that new engine without the pump?
But you know what will happen. If you leave, she will go into labor.
Upon the advice of this forum, I soldered the socket housing into the headlamp housing tonight. Upon trying to get the actual socket out, I pushed the socket housing out. All fixed now, I think the screw hole is off a smidge though. No biggie, I'll get it together and clearance it if needed. Maybe by Sunday I will have complete headlights sans wiring.
Picked up my used engine for the power unit too., a used rad and shell and some misc parts. But far too busy to think about it now.
Ron, No I did not, I figured it was on the engine so I would give it a try, honestly I figured the pump seal would leak but it has been good in that aspect. I think Thursday or Friday night I will try to get the system drained and put on a regular outlet I probably run at too low of RPM's to have the pump work well.
Chad, I am not too worried about her going into labor if I leave, this is #4. -Besides if the first three are any indication she will need to leave for the hospital at 5:30-6 AM.
I have one and a half headlights for my bug, but I would kind of like to install an LED rather than a bulb, I kind of had a novel idea: I suspect if a diode bridge is used to rectify the mag power and a Zener diode used to limit upper voltage I could run headlights with either battery or mag equally well. In 100 years someone will look inside the head lamp and think how clever I was using my stone-age 2000's technology.
Came across this in the online version of Hemmings. All T/TT minus the radiator and shell. Kit-based - would love those front wheels for my Shaw (cast iron is what came with the Shaw kit originally and the set on mine went AWOL somewhere along the line before I got her). The asking price is shocking - cannot believe the seller thinks he'll actually get that.
It is a nice conversion, love the cultivators but I can't figure how he could even think that the selling price would be anywhere near the asking price.
I managed to get the head light sockets in with a soldered ground wire to the housings for extra insurance. Hopefully tomorrow I will have these done and back on. I have some so so reflectors that I believe will look perfect while still provide some decent light at night. we will see.
Head lights are done. They look pretty good, although the right bezel I should try and find a slightly better one because the clips and pins are half corroded away.
Loaded and ready for my first engine and tractor show today.
Awesome show, I am hooked. I met a gentleman of a NY Doodlebug club--a little too far away for me to attend any meetings. I briefly saw Zach and two of his little tikes---Zach I apologize for not getting with you, were in the middle of our club meeting, and I didn't see you around afterwards. There was a lot of neat stuff there. The Case steam tractor was awe-striking. Anyhow, check out the photos. I made a flag holder yesterday to hang my flag for Flag Day.
Mini C-Cab anyone?
She's looking GREAT Chad!!
No T work this weekend. Was pulling with the Klam Digah. She spun out at 4250 lbs. Only doodlebug present.
Chad, we were all over, by the time I got back over you had packed it in for the day. I was hoping to take a longer look at your bug, but when the kids say potty you gotta go -then there was ice cream, and running to the truck for gas, and rock crushing.... have to catch up another time.
Zach, The sun wears me out quick, and it was a long Saturday for me, So I was pretty whooped by the end of the day today. I was there for about 5 or so hours total. It was fun for sure, we will definitely meet up again.
Ron, still planning on coming out in two weeks on Saturday. I was trying to drum up some interest in the T club today, no one said anything definite though.
I (ah-ah, I mean we) really need to see some action of that 'A pulling. Get your son to post some video on You Tube for us.
I don't think I remember this one being posted before. Very interesting indeed.
Neat picture it reminds me of the really well restored wooden framed bug posted some time back. I kind of like the row crop style doodlebugs for some reason, I suspect there are fewer because the front wheel assembly take a fair amount of work to make, thus it would only make sense if it was really needed. That big bar between the wheels negates any ground clearance gains from the dropped axles it must double as a draw bar in addition to wheel support structure.
Ask and ye shall receive. This is from a pull last year, found it posted on YouTube (was at this same pull last weekend). Watch from 0:08 to 2:23 and you'll see Klam Digah making her run with about a 4K load. Have another pull coming up this weekend at a local vineyard - they have me announcing, but I'll have the Digah down pulling as well. Spectators love to watch her pull - most have never seen a doodlebug. The production tractor guys will periodically become mildly annoyed at how slow she is; for pulling, I drop both 4-speeds into 1st and she just creeps along (that video is real-time speed). Diamond T rear end out of a cement truck. Her power is immense. What kills her is traction - when she doesn't go the distance, it's because she loses traction and spins out (she still has power to pull). Someday, maybe, I'll break down and buy some ag tires for the rear - but for the fun demo pulling I do, the current tires are fine.
It seems you are in the hot bed of Tractor shows. Other than the one near me this past weekend, it seems everything else is at least an hour and a half away. I would love to try out the pulling in the T. I wouldn't expect much, but I think it would be a blast.
The first thing I noticed when you started your pull was how slow it was. I expected for it to pick up some, but it didn't. I can see why the tractor guys would get a little upset with you---you take FOREVER!!, LOL. What is the end gear ratio, like 400 to 1 haha.
Some times an aggressive tire, isn't the way to go. I don't know the particulars though on setting things like that up. I do know from my drag racing experience that everything from the engine/trans/suspension/rear axle/tires need to work together as a package--I would imagine pulling would be similar if your were really going to take a stab at it. Of course the driver input and knowing the vehicle are the final piece.
Ron, you are so slow -good video. If anyone complains about the speed you can just tell them it is too loud to pull at more than an idle...
I like the guy with the Farmall a bit later in the video, that front end never sets down. Our Allis Chalmers used to pull like that skidding logs, it would go all day but you had to use the brakes to steer.
In Sharon Springs there is a show this weekend:
July 18th and 19th The Coon Hollow engine and tractor show is at the old KC Canary tractor dealership on Rt. 29 in Gloversville, small show but nice folks and good breakfast, there is a really neat cut-away John Deere in the dealership building too.
In September at the Saratoga county fair grounds there is a big truck show with some tractors too -Guess you fit both categories there.
My first pull, years ago, taught me the hard way to start in the lowest I have and stay there. You can see me holding up two fingers in the video when I'm talking to one of the track crew. He was asking me how many transmissions she had (#2 is sort of hidden under her decking) because I can lug her down so low. Both transmissions are AAs. When I finish a run and unhook, I put #1 in 1st gear and #2 in 3rd or 4th (depending on how much room there is to turn around). I then shift on #1 and go like a bat out of hell back to the ready line- just to show she has some legs as well. Object of a pull is load capacity, not speed - speed kills, slow pulls. People want fast, they can go watch a drag race. She is still working the track long after the lighter production tractors have tapped out - spectators just love that. Particularly considering she is homemade and 85 years old. I never push her - when she's done, she's done. Preserving her is more important that beating out some Farmall C and winning a bit of ribbon.
Would like to find the "right" T and pull with her. She'd have to be TT-based with a strong engine, dual transmission setup, full front axle and spring (nothing narrowed or pivot mounted) and a solid mount for the rear axle (not the usual cobbled affairs with blocks you usually see).
Something like Lonnie's, pictured above, would be perfect.
My initial thought of the tractor pulling was like the unlimited multi engine tractors---only doing it slower with old equipment. I guess it was a little shock for me. But irregardless, I still think it's neat, and wouldn't mind trying it.
Funny you mention about mounting a rear solidly. That is on my list of things to do. I can understand the width thing for stability, but why do you thing a full spring front would be better?
My god your going to get me in trouble with the wife. I don't need another hobby, I don't need another hobby, I don't need another hobby, I don't need another hobby, I don't need another hobby.
Chad - like the width issue, I think the full front spring gives greater stability.
Fired up the power unit Saturday evening for the first time since I took her apart for refurbishment. 4 Ron Patterson-rebuilt coils in her - 2, quarter turns with the crank on full choke, hooked the battery to the coils and she fired on the third pull of the crank. Really strong sounding engine. After the Orange show, I'll hook up a 3-way switch and find out if her mag is hot - no time for that before next weekend. I found a beautiful old cast-iron drill press that will run off flat belt and electric motor. Will probably use that for demos (far more practical on a daily basis than a feed grinder).
That is awesome Ron. I plan on loading up Thursday night, as I have to work late Friday. Hoping the weather holds out.
Also, found these from previous Orange, Mass shows.
This fellow appears to have two of these, unless I am colorblind.
This one appears to have a front mount PTO
I was ok with this one until I got to the seats. Those seats have to go, they just ruin the whole look. But to each his own.
The guy with the black and the green Worthingtons has a lot more than that!!! In addition to those, he owns one of the first T-based Worthingtons ever made - a 1920, rear steer (only three known to exist), a bunch of Model A Worthingtons, Model A doodlebugs and a Pulford. He is a very good friend of mine and the only other guy I know of who does nothing but doodlebugs and conversion tractors. His collection is incredible. He'll be at Orange and I'll introduce you. He's bringing the green Worthington and yes, it has a front mounted PTO. The black one is absolutely the most beautiful tractor I have ever seen - it is an absolute jewel - and when he got it, it was apart in about 100 boxes and bushels.
The gentleman with the hopped-up T doodlebug in the bottom picture is a great guy - with a beautiful T roadster pickup and some other really interesting T stuff. There's a great story about that doodlebug and it is a riot to see up close. I met him at the Bernardston shown a month or so ago and he was planning on coming to Orange as well.
Wish I could come to the show, those are some great pictures Chad. Ron, I think you are someday going to be the common thread amongst all T doodlebug owners.
Last Saturday my wife gave birth to another beautiful little girl, both are doing great. -tonight I am typing one handed balancing a sleeping child in the other hand.
Last Friday I pulled the steering column from the bug I found last year, remarkably I was able to make time get it straight, and make a new steering wheel.
There are three layers of maple laminated.
Thursday I stopped at Don's place after work to try to install the wheel. I was very surprised to find that Don had moved things around and got the doodle bug out from its previous home and ready to load onto a trailer -just wish I had brought my trailer..
It isn't quite running, there was some rust in the timer from moisture and I needed to get home. Possibly next week I will be able pick it up.
First off, that steering wheel is incredible. Great job on it, I want one for my '25 pickup.
Also it looks like you made the deal to get the doodlebug. Congratulations, Ron was mentioning to me today that he hoped you were going to be able to get it.
I really wish you could have made the Orange, Ma show today. It was a totally bitchin' show. We had a beautiful overcast day which kept the temps down--, but enough to make me red all over. I felt the cold front coming in, packed up the tent and things around 2:30 with Ron's help, and was loaded and out of there at 3:30. I pretty much missed the rain the whole way home, the last 20 miles was a real light rain which pretty much just made the road lightly damp. I WILL be back next year.
Ron is one of the nicest and most enthusiastic guys I have ever met for Doodlebugs/T-tractors/Fordsons. We spent the better part of the day together and was like long time friends that haven't seen each other in a while. Thank You Ron for your hospitality and the Moxie. Now I want a case of that around here. Good excuse to visit you again.
I met Ron's friend Don that has the Worthington tractors I posted just above. He had the black one there and it is drop dead gorgeous, beautiful.
I wish I had pictures, I only got a few more of the black Worthington already posted above here, it was more of a blast to chew the fat with Ron and drive these things around.
Ron, I first will apologize for posting this. I figured Zach and others would like to see it. While Ron was trying to strike a deal on a Irish Fordson, I went for a walk in the Swap meet. They are homemade, and made off T hubs. I will rebuild them and give it a whirl, but now that I have them, it won't snow for the next 3 years.
Ron, all I can say is your age is just short of the price--Sorry, can I still have some Moxie?
Ron and Zach, I thought it would also be worth mentioning that your T stuff is so awesome to see in person. Pictures are great, but it just doesn't do these vehicles justice.
Zach - congratulations on the new additions - daughter and doodlebug (in that order)!!
Chad - it was great meeting you and seeing your doodlebug in person. Glad you made it home safely. I pulled the Shaw back this evening and she is tucked in her garage slot until the next show. The rest of the gang is still on the field in Orange, wrapped in about 1000 lbs of tarps. Will make turns tomorrow and get them home. About 75% of the exhibitors exited after you did - too bad. Rain is supposed to clear out by midday tomorrow Day 2 of Orange is traditionally a bit thinner than Day 1, but usually still a good time; tomorrow will be a ghost town.
Spent 5 years looking for a set of skis and you score a set with perfect T doodlebug styling and built using T hubs in my own backyard when I wasn't looking! Unbelievable. Have thought of little else for the remainder of the day and I doubt I'll sleep a wink for the next week. The insult to injury is the fact that the Irish Fordson parley went nowhere. Regardless, there's always a chilled Moxie in my beat-up old Coke cooler awaiting you, or any other T guy.
Some pics of my girls taken after download at Orange last evening:
Wow, I can tell just from those two pics how much it cleared out. The show was packed for the whole time I was there. I was amazed even at noon time that spectators were still rolling in. This was/is an excellent show.
Ron, your display is awesome, and the fact you are close by to bring it all is fantastic. You put effort and pride into it and it shows. That power plant has become my new favorite thing. It is beautiful and I enjoyed it thoroughly. I can't wait for next year.
Someone posted video from yesterdays show at Orange, Ma. Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3shjNKH_o_Y
At 14:25 You can see Ron's stable of great displays and yours truly talking to him about his power unit.
At 20:50 You can see the black Worthington T tractor, the two old buzzards in their hopped up T doodlebug, and yours truly again in the '23 T doodlebug---I didn't realized she smoked a bit. Yesterday was the most I have ever driven it around, I was like a kid on Christmas.
Thanks for posting that link - would've missed it otherwise. Have never been to a tractor show that had that many T doodlebugs.
Long day spent hauling everything back from a thoroughly waterlogged field.
Found another video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaQAyiFdKNg
At 3:10 , Ron is pulling the power unit with Celtic Rust, and 6:57 comes the three doodlebugs, with me bringing up the back.
Chad, I am glad the other half of the steering wheel was not around, otherwise I may not have had enough incentive to make a wooden one. The correct oval shape was fairly easy to produce, maintaining tight joints on three loose layers while gluing and clamping was the difficult part. It would not have been an issue if I was not in a rush to just get it done.
Welcome to ski club, they ought to be fun this winter. I had to laugh when I saw the picture -I'm a bit surprised Ron hasn't found or built a set yet. I am really thinking about making some sort of rear flotation traction wheels to bolt on for snow; tracks would be great but I don't see it happening for now.
-Good to see you two got together. I am a little jealous that you got to meet up with Worthington Don after having seen his 'bugs.
Thank you Ron, we like additions of both types to the family, but I think we better quit with the kids after this. The power unit had a good gathering in the video, it is a pretty neat addition to your stable.
The new doodlebug came home Thursday, it did sort of run before coming home, but in the end a come-along was used to get it loaded.
My oldest came along with me for pickup.
-The girls were pretty excited when it got home, and have been climbing on it ever since.
I got a surprising amount of time to work today.
-A neighbor helped me to straighten the sickle bar using his press and expertise.
-Cleaned the carb and fixed a leaking seat on the fuel inlet
-Modified a Ford 8N exhaust to act as a stack. I was going to buy a length of black iron pipe to add to the existing exhaust system originally used, but getting a muffler and exhaust pipe for $36, plus getting the exhaust up and out of the way seemed like a no-brainer. I did need a 90 degree elbow but cut and welded pieces of the pipe to make a bend. I still need to make a support for it still.
It should be mostly ready to run.
Sweet. We're going to need detailed pics of that thing. Did I see some sort of PTO driven off the T transmission / u-joint area? I would like to see that too.
Been steadily working on my snow plow setup. Should be done or near done by this weekend. I am essentially down to the lever to control it right now.
I was looking at the original pictures of your bug when you brought it home until now quite the transformation, cant wait to see the plow.
(let me know if I can be of some help, there are lots of potential parts tidbits here, I have some levers with quadrants from drag harrows, etc...)
Here are the gears, you really have to see it in person to follow the flow from PTO to sickle:
The fact that thing is wood framed just blows my mind. That is quite the contraption indeed, but it is awesome!! Congrats on obtaining it. I will at some point have to make my way up there.
Any chance your going to the Coon Hollow show? I am thinking about it myself.
I will try to be there, it's on my way to work..
Easily the most unique doodlebug I've seen. Congratulations on getting her home Zac!!!
A lot of those gears look familiar - very similar to what's on my T/IHC mower. Any markings on them? Am betting they are IHC.
Thank you Ron, I think that might be pretty true for me too, it is very different.
The mower is sort of pre-IHC, it is a Champion draw cut, they were produced until champion combined with others to form IHC in 1902. It would be great to know where the other gears came from just in case something happened to one.
Have you started restoration work on your mower yet? I am waiting to see more on it.
Some internet teasing humor:
I'll just drop this here. I'll be back later to pick it up.
More to follow.............
Chad - that is looking really good. Cannot wait to see what you are designing for the attachment system.
Zac - nothing recently on the mower. Power unit absorbed my attention prior to the Orange show and had to catch up on some yard work since then. Will probably start back on the mower in the next week or so - refurbished a bunch of components for her over the winter and need to start installing them.
Wish I could post a video on here - took one last weekend of the power unit running my drill press.
Post the video on Youtube, then post a link to it here, like this:
Yup, Mark is right. I am no computer wizard, but even I can struggle my way through it. I use Windows Movie Maker / Media Player to edit and save it. Then upload it to You-Tube.
So here it is. I am about 90% done with the project. Here is the video link of it in motion and some pics following:
Some more detailed shots:
WOW!! You have been busy Chad!
Yup. It works pretty much liked I planned too--although I fried my brain coming up with ideas for the design, the raising part was the toughest. I had a dream one night and ultimately borrowed the whole design from Chrysler's 60's-80's clutch linkage design--something I am VERY familiar with.
The only part that I didn't really have worked out was the operating handle. That is still a work in progress. I want to also add two braces, one on each side of the T-shape plow mount, and two more to go under the axle to triangulate the frame itself, like this below in red:
Are you planning on running anything back to the rear axle to help absorb the impact on the blade?
I wasn't planning on it. But I probably could do that instead of triangulating the frame--would that be better?. Trouble is I will need to solidly mount the axle---as in get rid of the wood blocks. That is on my list eventually though.
Also remember, I am not going to be using this in any high speed plowing like a modern truck (I think the low-low and slow gearing combo would work well). Nor will it be used for heavy plowing. Just more of a fun type, "Hey, look we got 4" of snow an it's warm out, I'll use the Doodlebug."
Chad - was just thinking about my '28 - think I showed you the various attempts made on her to alleviate the plow pressure. No issue for 4" of light, fluffy snow though, so it can wait. As far as replacing the wood blocks, in one of the previous doodlebug threads (and this one may be getting to the point where we want to consider a "Show Us Your Model T Doodlebug/Conversion Tractor PART VI"), Lonnie Smith posted some pictures that showed details of his rear end mounting - really solid and something that you, with your skills, could turn easily and quickly.
And validating the old adage that "even blind squirrels will find a nut every now and then," I think I successfully uploaded a short clip of my 1917 T power unit running my 100+ year-old drill press on YouTube:
Neat video, there aren't many 20 horsepower drill presses around!
Mark, thank you! I almost bought a feed grinder as something to demo the power unit, but then I thought "what the hell are your going to do with a feed grinder during the 6 months of the year that there are no shows?" The drill press also has an electric motor and will run off a v-belt, so I can use it for something other than a display.
That being said, I did drill some flat stock on the press using the power unit. Took a while, but the holes went in.
Do you think it took a while due to the pulley ratio maybe being off a little?
Zach has a monster of a belt driven drill press. Dang thing is practically a milling machine. Certainly nothing that can be transported to a show like yours. I am sure if you chuck it up with a nice sharp bit and scrap wood, that would be perfect for the shows.
Camel back drill presses are great, usually good quill support and long travel!
Chad, looking good. Adding support back to the axle or frame above the axle would be a good idea. I don't know that I feel welding the rear to the frame is necessary, as you say, this is not a high speed endeavor, you can keep track of things to see if they shift and fix before things break if they do. I donít recall how things were held together in the back of your rig, it was a funny mix of stuff(?), but wood blocks and U bolts are really no different than the U bolts and steel blocks used on regular trucks, the friction from clamping is what is mostly keeping the axle in place not the shear of the fasteners. I consider the rear on mine to be held in place quite well. I also worry about welding to axle tubes because of heat distortion bending them if the welding is done in one pass, but also having issues if you ever need to pull/split the rear end for work which is entirely possible with that brass gear in there.
Ron not sure what you tried, but plow weight could be offset with a spring such as one or two of those old hood springs from a car that could be used to take off some plow weight for the driver, the lever could be used both to lift the plow and apply down pressure as needed. it looks like Chad's moves well (at least with no snow in the equation.)
Zac, my red '28 ran a snowplow for years but was long retired from that when I got her (and I've had her for 37 years now). But I kept her plow support in place and you can see the various attempts the previous owner (who also built her sometime in the early 40s) made to brace against the plow blade and absorb the impact - angle iron from the front axle to the frame just before the motor mounts, angle iron from the plow A-frame to the cowl, etc. You can see signs that they finally ran something (long gone) back to the rear axle to absorb the impact.
I will add a longer support to the rear, glad I got the advice now. Yes, it is in true doodlebug form how the back is held in place. It has a combination of just about everything. I really liked Lonnie's deal where he welded two plates, one per side to the rear axle and bolted it to the frame. I had another idea using spring perches and u-bolts and plates from a more modern Leaf spring setup. We'll see. My biggest gripe with how it is setup now is I can not grease the outer bearing from outside--which also explains why it is excessively worn.
My setup moves real easy--some thought to keeping lever ratios was needed to make it easy. I added a couple of grease fittings to the cross shaft to keep it lubed up. I can adjust the height of how high you can actually raise it (up to about 6-7"), but as I adjust it to go higher, the force required to raise it becomes greater. Really it doesn't need to go real high, but I still put various holes to change the lever action to suite what will work best for me.
At 41st Annual Pepperell Crank Up yesterday - Donnie brought his T-based 1929 Worthington (green one pictured above) and I brought Celtic Rust. Only two Ts there and they received a LOT of attention in a sea of Farmall red and John Deere green:
A few good leads came out of the day, which made the 90+ temperatures worth it.
I had thought of going to Pepperell, but that one is even further away from me (plus I was sick this weekend). I think I'll save my time and go to Dublin, NH in Sept. Glad you had fun, maybe we can meet up in NH.
Oh, I see you remembered your tent this time.
Had it at Orange, just didn't pull it out!
I didn't need mine, I spent all day in your spot looking at your cool toys, and terrorizing the isles driving around. But I was pretty tan by the end of the day.
Zac, any plans to go to Gloversville this weekend? I am planning on it unless the weather turns.
Donnie made some updates to his '29 Worthington since that picture above was taken. Here are some additional pictures from Sunday's 41st Pepperell Crank Up that turned up on the internet and feature his Worthington:
I long for a front mounted PTO. Thanks for finding and sharing the pics.
I do too Chad. But, with the exception of the one pictured above, all the other front-mounted PTOs remaining in the world are in Arkansas - owned by Donnie Brown.
Yes, Chad, I might try to drop off both bugs Friday on my way home from work. Then come out with the family Saturday AM.
In the past they have had breakfast that was inexpensive and pretty good. It is a very small show I'd like to see it advertised and attended more, nice venue and close by. A guy had a nice sterling engine a couple years back I am hoping he comes again I would like a video of his engine.
The new bug runs pretty well now. I cut a quick and dirty key way into one of the shafts where a gear had used several set screws to fix its place, until they spun on the shaft... The bevel gear did not want to move, so I didn't try to get it off too hard, just used the mill's vice to keep the v-blocks up high enough for the gear to clear the bed. (Chad, this machine makes the drill press look small it is a Cincinnati horizontal mill circa late 1890's)
Tried the plow out tonight on some lawn behind the garage. Works good, I may need to change the chain to a solid link so I can control downward pressure--but that remains to be seen for snow.
For a second there I thought you might have had a mid-build direction change and made a plough..
Potato, Potahto, LOL (spelling edited for reading effect).
Took the mrs. for a ride up the road and back, I really need to fix the rear axle. The axle shafts have deep grooves across the outer wheel bearing area so the drums rub on the backing plates--no doubt due to lack of lubrication. Would be a perfect winter project, except I would like to use it in the winter--especially with the skis.
I think my fix may be to build weld up to the surface and regrind to the proper level---it's either that or make another set of shortened axles. I have new sleeves from Langs on order for the past month, just waiting for the sleeve puller to come off backorder and ship all together. Assuming the bearings themselves will be serviceable for now.
Zac was gracious enough to let me drive his new 'bug with the mower today at a show we attended. There wasn't many there at all, but when you meet up with good folk, it can pass the time. Let me say this, the pictures Zac has posted do not do justice to the ingenuity of this piece of machinery. And to drive it is a hoot. There are so many moving parts you really need to think about where your limbs are at all times. Thank You Zac for letting me clunk clunk along in that thing---after you turned the gas on, LOL.
We need to get hooked up to get wood made for my skis--when you have time.
Received a PM from a doodlebug thread fan that Part V was getting too long. Link to Part VI is below.