Ruckstell and transmission rebuild

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Ruckstell and transmission rebuild
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Henry - Werribee, Australia on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 07:33 am:

I've been slowly going through my Dads collection of parts trying to piece together another 27 T. I've been following the service book and the MTFCA books but have a few questions on the condition of the spare transmission and ruckstell I found.

My Dad must have rebuilt the Ruckstell, it has a 13 tooth pinion and 39 ring gear. Is this a fun projects pinion bearing?


Is it as simple as unbolting the 3-1 gears and replacing them with original 11-40 gears then resetting the pinion? This was meant for a speedster but I'd rather have standard gears for a coupe.


These are the original ratio gears I found. They look OK to use to me.



I'm not sure what is going on with the housings, have they been modified? The 2 housings I want to use have the outer part of the axle tube missing.


Now the transmission, doesn't look like it's been rebuilt. I got the drums out and noticed the reverse drum is cracked in at least 2 places.


I assume this drum (except the gear) is junk? I have spare drums but they will need new bushes.

Should I be worried about the heat discolouration on the triple gear pins? The clearances are on the tight side.


Replace or reuse the starter ring gear, mag spools and screws?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 09:01 am:

The tubes missing the outer axle tubes were modified for floating hubs. Never re-use mag screws or spools. Also noticed the screws weren't peened. From the photo the ring gear looks a little beat up but useable. Considering the labor to get to it, I'd replace it on general principles. To me the triple gear pins could be cleaned up a little so they are smooth. It might be easier to just replace them. If necessary hone the bushings so the triple gears spin more freely. I'm sure others more knowledgeable than me will chime in as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 09:32 am:

I wouldn't have a problem using the ring and pinion gears pictured. They will outlast all of us.

I would replace the reverse drum. Good ones are difficult to find, but Dave Nolting makes new ones which are better. And he'll install your good gear on his new drum for $25.

Mike the triple gear pins several places to determine their o.d. and roundness. More than one thou out of round = replace. They might clean up as John says, but they're easy to replace if you have a press. Press them out toward the magnet side, not the other way. Put new ones in from the magnet side.

I'd replace the starter ring gear while it's apart, and the spools and screws. I re-use the earlier brass spools but not the aluminum ones. Be sure to get screws which go with the new ring gear; their thread sizes are different from originals.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 09:33 am:

p.s. -- It looks like a Fun Projects pinion bearing to me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Henry - Werribee, Australia on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 09:44 am:

Thanks for the advice. Will add those to the next order list.

I wish the axle housings were left alone. I only just pressed the new studs into new hubs and drums too. Would rather not spend the $700 or so to get floating hubs out here. Any options for returning them to stock?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Milton,WA on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 10:39 am:

I believe the pinion bearing kit might be a Gene Wright (from Oregon) kit from the 70's - I still have a couple of his kits.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 10:43 am:

Reference the axle housings. You can replace the tube and the outer casting by removing the rivets from the Ruckstell housing and pressing out the tube and replacing it with parts from a donor housing. Not an easy job but doable. I will take a big press. I have done it using a horizontal press. Check the alignment of the parts when replacing, you want the spring perch in the correct position in relation to the Ruckstell housing. The tube in the rear axle housing goes all the way through the castings. Good luck


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 11:22 am:

Reference the axle housings. You can replace the tube and the outer casting by removing the rivets from the Ruckstell housing and pressing out the tube and replacing it with parts from a donor housing. Not an easy job but doable. I will take a big press. I have done it using a horizontal press. Check the alignment of the parts when replacing, you want the spring perch in the correct position in relation to the Ruckstell housing. The tube in the rear axle housing goes all the way through the castings. Good luck


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Henry - Werribee, Australia on Monday, June 01, 2015 - 06:05 pm:

That might be beyond my abilities but I'll have a think about which way I'll go. Are the rivets the same as these https://www.modeltford.com/item/2500RIV.aspx
Is the axle tube on a ruckstell housing the same length as a standard housing?


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