anyone ever youse the product called rust doctor or any chemical supposed to either encapsulate or even convert rust?
It looks too good to be true and probably is but...
Any one with good or bad experience info on the product would be helpful.
I've heard of Pos 15 or something but it looks like a very thick frame paint not for body panels
I used a couple spray cans of stuff called Rust Converter on the rear body sub frame of my cut off 26 touring. I don't know for sure if it will prevent further rust but it turned the flaky brown stuff to crunchy black stuff.
In your opinion do you think it could now be ground down or filled over for primer without looking like the Rockies?
In my case it's just to put off dealing with it for a while. I may sandblast it or attack it with a wire wheel if I ever do a proper restoration. That's probably a decade away, if ever, but hopefully I'll have more metal left than if I hadn't done anything. The can claims it leaves a paintable surface but even the example shown on the label (which should be a best case scenario) looks like hell.
I think the prep required to put a good finish on this stuff would probably be extensive enough to negate the need for it. I'll take a good look at what I treated when I get home (right now I'm 578 miles from home as the crow flies) and report back on whether the surface could be paintable to the standard you'd want to see on a body.
I have used POR15 many times. It has it's usefulness for sure, and works well (just do not get any on you). It is UV sensitive, it's biggest downfall. I have seen it cling very well, and have seen it peel off in sheets like tape. It is rather thin actually and a little goes a long long way. I laugh when people buy quarts or gallons because they will more than likely never use it all ever.
I have also used Eastwoods Rust encapsulator. I like it a little better, I actually used it on the entire front of the frame and front suspension on my Chevy S10 pickup when I rebuilt it. It held up fair in the harsh winter months. It too goes a long ways, so don't over buy.
The thing you have to remember with most of these paint products is that unless you completely paint the object 100%, air will still get to the metal and rust it. If you paint a panel on the outside, and the backside is hidden, it will still rust from the inside out.
I found both products to be resistant to most automotive chemicals. In fact I have a 15 year experiment with POR15 where I painted a stripe on the reservoir inside a brake master cylinder--it is still there and hasn't come off.
Your mileage may vary, prep is definitely the key I found on both these products
Greg: Twenty-five years ago I used a treatment called Fertan on rusted sheet metal that had been thoroughly cleaned with a wire cup brush. I then painted with epoxy. It has lasted without the rust raising the paint. There are many variables in the chemistry and application conditions that I suspect duplicating anyone's positive experience may be hit or miss, but what have you got to lose?
I have used the Permatex brand through the years with good results. Probably all products are similar in formula. KGB
The product just came to my office today. I went to office when everyone left and there it was but I made a mistake on my post!!!!
Chad.. It was the Eastwood that I ordered not rust doctor. Lol
I was looking at both on amazon and ordered Eastwood cause a 1 quart order of Eastwood came with a spray can of the same stuff.
We'll I like a deal and it sold me. Ha ha
I'll try it tomorrow and post pics
www.rustbullet.com I've used this and I love it. Very easy to work with and eliminates buying epoxy primer. Check out their website and videos. UV protected and lays out extremely well.
According to extensive independent scientific testing, Rust Bullet is the most effective, longest lasting, easiest to use rust/corrosion-control product on the market. Rust Bullet Automotive Formula has been awarded Two United States Patents for its advanced technologies, providing phenomenal adhesion and superior protection. Use for all your Automotive Applications including undercarriages, frames, floor pans, rocker panels, suspension and much more.
Our Automotive Formula contains more metal and is a bit thinner than our Standard Formula allowing for an easy application with HVLP automotive finishing guns, as well as brush or roller, and provides a smoother finish usually desired for automotive projects. Use Rust Bullet Automotive Formula as a stand-alone coating, or in combination with Rust Bullet BlackShell, Rust Bullet WhiteShell, Rust Bullet ColorShells or Rust Bullet Clear Shot for unbeatable rust protection. Rust Bullet Automotive is metallic gray in color. Rust Bullet Automotive can be brush rolled or sprayed.
Back in the mid seventies I used a product called Okite 33. I used it on a frame then painted it with Dupont centari. The frame looks as good as when I did it. This product seemed to foam and left the metal a dull gray. It was also used on sheet metal and served as an etch which helped bond paint. EPA probably did away with it!!!!
Has anyone actually use any of these on their body parts ( car that is) and painted or bondo or my preference lead filler over top of it? It says you can but that's sales rep not the poor soul doing it.
Thanks for all the answers and experiences.
Greg, I have used POR 15 lots of times. It is great over a rusty surface, but I still suggest to clean the surfaces as good as you can. Try to get rid of the loose scally stuff. It is a thin product and will get into the cracks and seams very well . I even take a air blower and "gently" blow it into the seams and under lips, and back into holes or ???? that you normally can not get to any other way. POR 15 sticks very well to old rusty surfaces or sandblasted, ground, or sanded with 180 grit or courser. It does not stick well to smooth shiny surfaces. If you get it on you the only way to get if off is let it "wear off" It is OK to paint over it or bondo over it, but you "must" sand/scuff it before you top coat it. I like to use at least a 180 grit scuff/sand before top coating the POR 15. It is a very hard paint so it takes a little effort to get a good scuff/sand. I also believe it is better to brush it on instead of spraying. I think the brush "rubs" the paint into the surface and cracks better, as well as getting any dust ect worked into the paint instead of "between the paint"
These three cars are totally immersed in Rustbullet ....
D brown thanks for the info.
Don b Beautiful cars.
I guess I'm painting my 26 this weekend. I'll make sure to tak close ups of before and after pics
I did a chassis back in 08 I think with Por 15.
It has hung under a shed roof since.It was rusty and I wore out 3 harbor freight cup brushes on it and wiped it down with lacquer thinner and let it dry good. The por 15 is raised all over it and it will need sandblasting if I ever use it. Did it within a few months of application.
I have used the spray rust convertor stuff from Orielys and it works ok I guess.Have not had anything apart yet that I have used it on.
Greg, I coat everything with rustbullet 2 coats. Then the filler goes on overtop of it. After sanding the filler I put two coats of rustbullet over that area. At that point the high build primer and finish paint go on. I leaded the fenders on the centerdoor I'm working on before applying any rustbullet. This is a picture of two running boards off a 27 fordor. The whole time involved was taking a wire wheel on a 4" grinder to clean the loose rust off. Then applied rustbullet immediately after. Note the pits filled in rather nicely and the board was ready for painting in about a hour.
I thought you were using KBS rust seal? Do you mean I went, and bought the wrong stuff! Oh well, I hear it works great, so I'll use it any ways.
Does this Rustbullet stuff penetrate into panel seams and the like? I have a rust repair I've been putting off on the fiance's '99 Beetle because it's on the corner of the roof where two panels come together and this might be just the ticket.
Man don that really looks great. I'm gonna try my Eastwood cause I already bought and opened it. I hope it comes close to looking like your running boards. Im excited to test it out on a nonvisible area like under seat area.
I used som stuff one time on my 35 plymouth sedan and it was so thick it almost sealed my hood lovers up. Lol
Tim, it will penetrate but seams and hard to reach places require some extra attention. My Fordor was done 4 years ago now and the undercarriage has NO sign of any pealing or rust stains...it actually looks as good as the day it was done. I for one, am sold on this stuff.
Is there any place to buy this stuff locally or do you have to order it? I see ebay has it.
Also, how well does it keep in the can once it's been opened?
Stan, I've always ordered it from their website. I have a gallon on hand currently and it was opened about 2 months ago. It is down to half full and still completely usable. It will get a skin after about 3 weeks or so but with stirring the skin will blend back in. Just a note on the history of Rustbullet. It was developed for the navy to paint their ships while at sea. They would scrape the metal and it would rust almost instantly. The defense dept wanted something that would eliminate this problem and not be adversely effected by the surface rust...thus Rustbullet was created.