Question on valve grinding procedure

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Question on valve grinding procedure
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 08:49 am:

This is my third valve lapping, grinding reseating to improve compression. This is a new problem,. The valves, pictured, do not have the two holes in them that fit my valve grinding tool. The only way I did cylinder one, was to remove the springs. I then put a thin layer of compound, and grasped the valve stem with a vice grip. By pushing down hard on the top of the valve, and turning the vice grip 1/5 a turn 50 times, before rotating the valve a quarter turn, the valve slid freely and it appears I have a good surface. So my questions are is there an easier way? Also it seems like it will be difficult to compress the valve springs back into the block. Any suggestions on how to do this ? Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nicholas Lingg - Tarboro, NC on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 08:55 am:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUTFVyGFY_s


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nicholas Lingg - Tarboro, NC on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:00 am:

This is the one I was looking for
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3052T.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:00 am:

Consider a valve lapping tool?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:01 am:

Get a valve lapping stick with suction cups on the ends, most auto parts stores still carry them.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-1-1-8-and-1-3-8-large-valve-lapper-lis2 1100/22984580-p?cm_mmc=PLA-_-Google-_-GPLA-_-22984580&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=229 84580&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&iv_=__iv_p_1_g_12425515822_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_22 984580_z_US_i_en_j_73681271902_s__n_g_t__d_c_v__vi__&gclid=CJ6Jz4TO-MUCFQmPaQodU LgAYg


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:26 am:

And...get a small coil spring to place under the valve in the valve pocket, that will allow the valve to pop up, and not stick to the lapping compound, as you rotate the valve to new positions on the seat!





Coil spring for valve grinding, 3/4" dia. top, 1" dia. bottom, and 2" length.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:35 am:

And, by the way, the photos above are posed.

The '23 engine had nice valve seats, valves on top of the block, little wear. So was gonna re-use these two-piece iron head/steel shaft Ford valves, just grind them back in again.

But....conscience had the better call, the block is now at the rebuilder getting the complete go-over with modern 1-piece valves. :-) An old 2-piece Ford valve can put a damper in your day when it busts a piston.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:45 am:

Do I have 2 piece valves from the pictures?

Also I tried the valve lapping tool the dowel and cup. For the life of me I could not get the valves to turn using this tool I will watch the videos


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nicholas Lingg - Tarboro, NC on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 09:49 am:

They are not 2 piece valves.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:03 am:

The valve in my photo marked "4" is indeed original Ford valve, these are 'two-piece', the valve head is iron, the valve stem is steel.

They can separate. Bad news when the head goes into the cylinder.


Ford valve, you can see the iron head, and the steel stem in this cutaway


What the damage looks like when the head pops off a 2-piece valve.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:06 am:

Dave, Your contact area is to wide. The valve wont seal very well. Thinner is better. Cut the inner angle on the block, Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:27 am:

Scott Thanks I will send a picture of a valve after I have set it with the compound to see if you think it is done properly. I learn so much from you all

Thanks Dan for the pictures of a 2 piece valve See you all tomorrow at the Museum i hope


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson College Place, WA on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:51 am:

A little oil on the suction cup will help it to stick to the valve. Just enough to moisten the cup.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 10:59 am:

Or some of the grinding paste to add to the friction under the cup..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole, Oswego, IL on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 11:10 am:

Hey Dave,
You working on that Blue Lizzie you have for sale? I saws it needed a valve job.

Thanks,
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 11:21 am:

While I would agree that a narrow face is better I would bet there are a lot of T's, mine included, that have a wide face in the seat. His photo shows the valve with what looks to be a fresh cut so really can't tell from that what the seats look like.
When I have lapped valves into the block they show a gray ring where seated.

David;
Do you have adjustable lifters? If you have lapped the valve shown, does not look like you are making contact with the seat. Could be why you are having compression problems, little or no gap between the valve stem and lifter. If you have adjustable lifter I would suggest backing them off then do the valve job and re-adjust after. If you don't have those you may need to grind the stems and set you gap before you grind the valves then check again after.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Friday, June 05, 2015 - 04:12 pm:

Hi James, I have been over whelmed with volunteer work, Police, Lions Scouts and doing 3 military funerals today as Chaplain. TOO many cars to work on. I am working on a 1919 Roadster to get it ready for the grand kids to drive The Touring sale fell through to a man in Poland. I have it up for sale at a loss. If it does not sell i will start working on it. I LOVE getting these cars to run again !!!!


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