How do you know when your clutch is worn out?
Mine wants to slip. Adjusted each finger 1/2 turn clockwise and screws are almost screwed in all the way. Did not seem to help.
If you can't get good clutch action by adjusting the fingers, have you tried shortening the link from the low pedal to the clutch arm?
One other thing you can do is to check to make sure that the clutch lever bolt is fully off of the emergency brake lever cam when you are in high gear.
If the emergency brake rods are adjusted too long, they can prevent the parking brake lever from going fully forward when you are in high gear, which can leave the lever bolt partway on the cam and contribute to slippage.
Also possible that your clutch spring is weak or broken.
This seems too simple, but it happened to me and I have read in this forum of others with this simple problem:
Check the slot in the wooden floorboards for the emergency brake lever. Examine closely to see if when the lever is all the way forward, the lever might be touching the forward end of the slot. This could be preventing the lever from going all the way forward, indicating that the slot needs to be elongated a bit.
Do you have a Ford clutch or an aftermarket lined one. Unless your spring died you should be able to adjust the clutch and solve the problem. If it is worn out turbo 400 discs then it's done. You could make longer adjusting screws if need be.
I don't have a proper way to test the original clutch springs. I just grab them with two hands and squeeze. You might be surprised how weak some of them are.
The spring is what applies pressure onto the clutch discs, going through the fingers and assorted pieces. If the spring is too weak, adjustment may or may not help, but will not fix the problem.
You can also do a crude and inaccurate spring test in the car by prying against it with a large screwdriver or tire iron. Unfortunately, I don't know any way to tell you about how much resistance would be correct.
As others have said, can you tell if your car has the original Ford type multiple steel disc clutch? Or one of the newer replacement type? I often like to tell people that I like the newer replacement type clutches. People take perfectly good original model T multiple steel disc clutches out of their cars and put the modern ones in. The perfectly good original clutches wind up at a swap meet for sale cheap, and I buy it and use it. Actually, I much prefer the original clutch in good condition.
The original type clutch can be abused to the point that it is basically destroyed, but short of significant abuse, the original clutch almost never wears out, excepting for the spring going soft.
As others have said. Check everything involved in the clutch motion. Make sure everything is moving smoothly, not hitting or binding anywhere. Maximize the angles, motions, and pressure for maximum high gear pressure and maximum neutral.
That link between the low/clutch/high pedal and the "T" clutch fork cross shaft is very critical. That entire assembly can wear in odd ways. The "L" end of the link can look decent, yet be worn so that it slips sideways a bit and loses some of your clutch travel robbing you of your neutral. It is a simple thing to make, but usually, that "L" link must be replaced with a new one. And a dirty little secret is that often it needs to be made with the threaded side about a quarter to half inch longer than the original. You also need to somehow clean up the eye at the bottom of the clutch pedal for that link to fit and adjust properly. There are several good ways to do that.
Wayne - In the last sentence of your post above, you said "There are several good ways to do that.", referring to repairing wear in the eye on the bottom of the clutch pedal.
For those of us who aren't the best mechanics, could you please elaborate on that for us?
Did you mean brazing or welding up that eye and then drilling or machining the hole, or using a bushing of some type to get the hole back to the correct size?
If there is a lot of meat around the eye, simply drilling (or filing) to a minimal size larger and making a matching "L" piece may be the easiest fix. If there isn't a lot of material around the eye, brazing or welding then re-drilling the hole should be a good fix. Brazing a small piece of steel tubing into the hole can be a good way to build it up if the eye if it is really thin. Be careful about widening or thickening around the eye because there isn't a lot of extra room in there if your T has a starter (or just the Bendix can).
If the link has a tendency to push off to one side when the pedal is pushed? Another fix I have done a few times is to braze a small flat-washer onto the "L" bracket right in the corner. That gives a better surface and reduces wear preventing the link pushing off to one side.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I kinda have the same problem, driving without my floorboards, testing the new brakes, my clutch kinda shudders when I come off the gas and let out the pedal. I am smoothly going from low to high and the clutch shudders before it grabs?
Sound like clutch fingers or clevis?
(not trying to highjack [thread)