24 t fuel carb issue

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: 24 t fuel carb issue
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 11:04 pm:

I am about ready to put it on blocks again like my father had it. I can get it to start, idle and sounds good. take it out on the road and it runs OK in low but when into high it coughs, sputters and just won't pick up speed. I will admit I had to get a new carburetor from langs. I wanted one to use while the holly one that was on it was getting rebuilt for me. are the new ones just crap or what am I missing. any help is greatly appreciated as I have no more hair to pull out!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Wells, Hamilton Ontario on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 11:22 pm:

Did you try enriching the mixture just a bit while driving?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Noonan - Norton, MA. on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 11:35 pm:

Kevin, never give up!..This forum has some of the most knowledgeable people here you will ever meet, and certainly will guide you in the right direction to fix your problem. Kevin, bolting on a new carb will not solve every drive-ability problem, could you give more info on what else you have checked/replaced, including the condition of your coils and timer, gas tank, fuel line, sediment bulb?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 11:45 pm:

have enriched the mixture. have good fuel flow to the carb, line is clean and flows out the bottom of the carb when valve open. with the old one it ran good. but since then I added rocky Mountain brakes, new band linings, and tested after each process and still ran well. I am thinking it is starving for fuel when in high gear. I did replace the spark plugs and wires, soft plugs, exhaust and intake gaskets. Not familiar enough with coils or timer but like I said it was doing better before I did the maintenance that was needed!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 12:03 am:

All timers needs frequent cleaning and most of them need frequent oiling. Did you take it off and check for dirt and wear?

What type of carburator did you buy? The vendors has been selling "replacement" carbs that's actually meant for lawnmowers.. Usually there is a disclaimer telling it may need a fuel pump for it to work correctly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Noonan - Norton, MA. on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 12:06 am:

Kevin, you said it runs well at idle, and in low gear. How does it run in neutral, just sitting? Can you increase the throttle to get maximum rpm, or does it cough and sputter like when you drive it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 12:19 am:

runs great in neutral and will Rev up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Noonan - Norton, MA. on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 12:28 am:

Kevin, i hope others more knowledgeable than myself will chime in, but it sounds like you might have a clutch/adjustment problem if it runs great in neutral and will rev up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 12:37 am:

carb type is T-6200-C $272.00 / ea.1909-25 from snydersantiqueauto.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson, Indianapolis on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 06:29 am:

I've found that most cough and sputters in high gear are ignition related. The cylinder pressure increases in high gear and it's harder for the spark to jump the spark plug gap, so the spark takes a "Shortcut". The short cut could be from the coil box to the firewall or at the sparkplug if they're dirty. The spark will run up the side of the plug insulator to ground. So check condition of coils, plugs, coil box, plug wires etc...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black SC/FL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 08:52 am:

Kevin,
Try replacing your coils with "known" good ones. When you rev it up in the shop, there's no load on the engine, so, it's hard to tell if one is failing at speed. Also, make sure your coilbox is good (rebuilt since you started reviving the T). I've had some actually put on a light show in the dark!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 11:03 am:

since I need to dig deeper, how do I test the coils or where do I find that info. are they hard to rebuild? I also kind of thought of spark issue. I was moving them to make sure they where tight and I became the shock recipient. not the engine!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 11:53 am:

It could be the spark plugs. The compression is highest at full throttle when the engine is pulling hard. As the compression increases, it is harder for a spark to jump the gap. Try cleaning them and adjusting gap to 25 thousandths.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 11:54 am:

Did you clean / check the timer?
When you've done that, you can start the car when it's dark and check if there are sparks flying around the coil box and wires like Mike suggests?

If the wood is bad in the coil box or if it ever got wet there's a good chance there are carbon traces where sparks can go the wrong way. Not so hard to change it out, but takes some tinkering.
The best solution for trouble free touring even if it rains is a plastic kit from Fun Projects. The plastic won't show. http://www.funprojects.com/products/5000RK.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 05:00 pm:

so if it's dark you will see where it is maybe misfiring a spark? I will clean and inspect the timer as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Holland, Utah on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 06:35 pm:

Kevin, Put some Sea Foam into the fuel. I had the same problem 2 years ago. It's the dam alcohol in the new gas!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 08:29 pm:

thank you. I will give anything a try.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 09:49 pm:

okay, I cleaned and lubed the timer and was checking the coils. from drivers side (american) first coil buzzes, second one never does, third yes fourth yes. I have switched #1 and #2 coils places still the same scenario, # 2 does not buzz. that would tell me the coils are good but something wrong with slot 2. what to look for now? at least I feel like I made some kind of discovery.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black SC/FL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 10:37 pm:

Kevin,
You really need to find a local club and some "T-buddies". A coilbox rebuild is not too tough and can be fairly cheaply done. A Fun Projects kit is more expensive, but, everything fits correctly and you'll probably never have any more problems with your coilbox. Coils are a different matter. I send mine out to Coilman. You need to have a good timer--not a worn out, out-of-round stock one with a broken/weak roller spring, new correctly gapped plugs, new plug wires, and new/good wiring harness. Just because it buzzes, don't mean it's good. And, it can be fine today and a week from now not be. Take all the spark plugs out, hook the wires back to them and lay them on the head. Turn the switch on and slowly crank the engine and observe the sparks at the end of the plug. If each is good, reinstall them. If your coil box is under the dash, leave off the lid and go for a drive. If it's running rough, reach under and put your finger on the coil points to keep them from opening. If the engine almost dies when each of the four coils is stopped from working, then it's probably not a coil problem. If you depress one that has no effect, that coil is probably not working properly. To verify--rearrange the coils in the box and do it again and see if the same coil fails. Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black SC/FL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 10:42 pm:

Kevin,
I was watching TV and took too long for my last post. Rebuild your coilbox, or, at least take apart and clean up everything associated with connections to/from #2 from the plug to the timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kevin hawes fort morgan co on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 10:46 pm:

thanks mike. small rural town not much around here for clubs! will see what I can figure out!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black SC/FL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 10:58 pm:

Sometimes when a T sits a while the connections corrode. Be careful not to break any soldered connections.


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