I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I can't find the answer. When mounting a tire on a split 21inch rim do I use a flap, old piece of inner tube, duct tape or nothing to put between the tire and the rim? All of the above have been suggested and I need to know which is best.
Please don't use duct tape. Experience talkin'here. It deteriorates inside the rim just like it does when exposed to weather and breaks down to that stringy mess that's so hard to remove + in that state it's doing you no good. I've used flaps all the time but there's stuff out there that's worlds better than duct tape.
The discussion starts here
Split rims must have flaps. KGB
I have a old 21 inch tire that I took off the rim, it's has a flap installed. It's not the one piece like sold today, it's split and the ends over lap, like the big truck flaps.
Jerry,your question is kinda like the old saying that"you don't need a parachute to jump out of an airplane" You do need one if you're planning on doing it twice. Without a flap,you can go for a (short) ride,but not for long...
Thanks for the advice, new flap is on its way.
MY 1919 (demountable, cincher, not split rim) does not have flaps and they have been on the car since 1965.
The tires are almost worn out so they have gone more than a short distance.
I plan on not using flaps when I replace the tires later this year.
I guess we jumped out of the airplane and landed on something soft!
Fred, the question in this thread wasn't flaps or not in clincher rims - it's about flaps in 1925-27 21" split rims, and that's a necessity.
there was a good article on tires in one of the two club magazines recently. I won't presume to tell anyone that they are "right" or "wrong" in using/not using flaps. However, my experience mirrors the information presented in the article, in that once you demount your 1965 tire and compare it to the 2015 tire, you will see that there likely is a significant difference in how the tube is supported (or not supported) between the beads on the two tires.
I haven't used split rims, but I'd think flaps covering those splits would be a good idea. Some say they're superfluous for clinchers, but I've got them in mine and so far they haven't been a problem.
I agree that flaps are necessary with split rims.
I will look closer at the new tires
I use flaps in my clinchers because i'm too old fat and lazy to keep changing flats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I was on a Muddy T Tour with about 100 people and one guy had 3 flats. He bought a car on Thursday at a museum and brought it on the tour that weekend. Along with him and his mechanic was his wife. Also along for their first (and last) T tour was the wife's sister and her husband. I pulled off where the flat occurred since I wasn't sure what exactly had caused the stoppage of a bunch of T's. The mechanic was repairing the left rear tire on the 1913 and was talking to the owner about the need for flaps while another elder gentleman was delivering the gospel according to himself that he had been on 1 million model T tours and never had a flat in his life and didn't believe in flaps. I sensed it was time for me to exit since there was no point in listening to this all again. The mechanic who was actually changing the tire was a bit irritated as indicated by his rolling his eyes as the guy told again how many miles he had without a flat and he didn't run flaps. The elder gents 1922 Roadster was sitting across the road unattended with about 6-8 other stopped T's all lined up. Suddenly there was a huge "BANG" and the 22 roadster sat down quietly and nicely on its now flat left rear tire. The guy changing the tire could hardly hold his merriment and I too found it hard not to laugh. The lecture ended abruptly and I didn't see anybody that was going to help the old fellow change his tire. I was tickled at how the situation presented itself. The timing of the little 22 Roadster was perfection in presenting its case but boy it must have been a bitter pill to swallow to have his "first" flat there in front of all those folks.
I'm no flap expert by any means, all I know is I had them put in the new two-piece, lock-ring rims 6:00x20 for my firetruck. Yet on my '15 when I had Stutzmans re-spoke two wheels, the steel rim inside was clean, rust free and smooth as a baby's butt...so all I did do was put a strip of duct tape around it, so far, so good!
I put flaps on everything - and mine are all doodlebugs that really don't exceed 10-15 mph. I even put them on the split rims mounted to my power unit and on all four wheels (clinchers) that I recently refurbished for the sawmill. All of their rims are marginal (nature of the parts I work with) and I really only want to put tires on these gals once in my lifetime - their next caretaker can deal with it long after I'm gone.
John - that is a great story!! I laughed out loud reading it!
Dont want pay tge price for a flap o used old tubes cut the stem and all the way around
Split rims and lock ring types allow water to get into the assembled tyre/rim combination, with the resultant rust problems and flats from chafing at the join and from rust particles. The flap is necessary to protect the tube. The tube is fitted to the tyre first, then the flap inserted. This whole assembly is dropped onto lockring type rims or onto collapsed split rims, before they are aired up.
They are not necessary in clincher rims, just as they were not used in the drop centre rims used prior to the introduction of tubeless tyre. However, if you have a lazy $150 to spare, they will do no harm in clincher tyres, providing they stay in place during fitting. A rim liner is far cheaper.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Being cheap up front will often cost you down the road!!A rim liner will not keep you from pinching a tube or a tube from trying to creep under the tire bead!! It's hard to imagine how to screw up mounting a flap!!Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Speaking of mounting a flap, here's a demonstration video, courtesy of Coker tire:
There are some things that are worth the money. I do carry a spare tire, but do not have a jack or a tire wrench. A flat is far more aggravation then the $21 that Lang's charges for a flap. The split in the 21" rim will move in operation, and duct tape or not, it will eventually work on the tube.
I have the clincher de-mountables on my '22 and I am in the process of changing a Wards Riverside tire so cracked that tread was separating. It is my first tire change. I found several patches on the old tube and will replace it, and a flap. After looking over things, it appeared that when the tire beads are engaged in the rim, the tube does not actually sit on the rim. Is this true and the reason why flaps are not really needed on clincher rims? I can see how rust flakes from the inside might cause trouble if not cleaned and painted...probably better flat prevention than the flap? I'd rather not have to wrestle with the flap if not needed.
Bud's comment regarding the pinching of tubes on clinchers and the value of rim flaps is well-observed. On several occasions, the flap has also saved me from tearing a new tube when when using tools to mount a tire on a clincher rim. They are so thick and well made that they'll last a long time, even with tire changes. I look at them as a long-term investment
To each his own. They go on every tire I mount.
And yes, the agricultural and truck tires on the bugs in my profile pictures also have Lang's flaps in them.
I agree with Ron. While putting new tubes in my 23 T, I noted the old tubes had more patches from being pinched (probably while mounting the tires) than they did anywhere else. After putting a hole in one of my new tubes I decided that flaps were a pretty good idea. Now I will not mount a tire on a T without a flap.
They also help protect the tube if you have a puncture whilst in motion.