Car shudders going into high gear.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Car shudders going into high gear.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole, Oswego, IL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 06:35 pm:

I wanted to blow this past a few of you guys, driving without my floorboards, and testing new external AC brakes, my clutch kinda shudders when I come off the gas and let out the pedal to go into high gear. I am smoothly shifting from low to high by easing off the throttle and the clutch shudders just before it grabs? Once it grabs, it holds well but that first moment is iffy. Does it possibly sound like clutch fingers, clevis is the incorrect length, or maybe or Kevlar bands?


Thanks,
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 07:10 pm:

James -- My kevlar bands don't shudder, and none of mine ever have. It must be some other problem. It's difficult to say what the problem might be without driving the car to determine what's going on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 07:12 pm:

What kind of shape is your brake band inside? Probably a rough surface where the clutch rides.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roy Mathis, Van Buren, AR on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 07:24 pm:

Jack, I think you mean drum instead of band. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 07:33 pm:

Yes,my bad,but I'm old so forgive me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alan George Long on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 08:58 pm:

I don't believe it can be a band problem as shifting from low to high you are releasing the band and the high clutch is being applied. I have the same issue at the moment but yet to investigate it. Another possible issue maybe the band not fully releasing quickly enough and being bound up for some reason. In that case, you have both the band and clutch applied at the same time. Not a good scenario

Just my thoughts. Alan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roy Mathis, Van Buren, AR on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 09:19 pm:

Jack, you are not old, just experienced like me and Mikey.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole, Oswego, IL on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 11:03 pm:

It feels to me like the clutch doesn't grab right away- I am tempted to turn the clutch fingers in a 1/2 turn and see if that alleviates the shudder.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 01:47 am:

Is the clutch that's making racket or the engine?
Have you tried retarding the spark when you go into high until you pick up speed?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 07:14 am:

James; Have you recently changed your oil and put in one of the modern oils with friction reducers? This will cause a shudder going into high and may also cause a shudder just before stopping. Try changing the oil with a straight 30 weight if possible if not then try getting motorcycle oil for motorcycles with internal transmissions this should cure the problem if it is oil related.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson, Indianapolis on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 11:14 am:

The shudder is from the pedal being released too slowly. Try releasing faster as the rpms of the engine are coming down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 11:27 am:

A couple of things:
1. When you release the clutch pedal to high push the throttle ALL the way up when in neutral and pause very briefly in neutral until the engine is slowed down. Then release into high and give it some gas AFTER the pedal is all the way back.

2. Be sure the parking brake rods are all the way back without bending when the lever is all the way forward. You can check for this by removing the clevis pins from the front ends of the rods and pushing the lever all the way forward. If you have to force the rods backward to get the pins back in, the rods are too long and should be adjusted shorter so that the pins will just go in without forcing. If one side pulls before the other stops, tighten the rod on the loose side half a turn at a time until you get them to stop evenly.

Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole, Oswego, IL on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 11:29 am:

Thanks, will do.


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