More 1916 pics brake

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: More 1916 pics brake
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 06:45 pm:

I found play in left wheel took off nut and I pulled off wheel by hand! Some lite marking on axle were it was rocking after cleaning I see no damage even key is ok no hammer marks or any sign of being apart could ford have left it loose?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 07:04 pm:

Paul -- They loosen up with use. You're supposed to torque the axle nut to around 90-100 lbs, then tighten to the next cotter pin hole. After driving it a while, do it again. You'll usually be able to get it at least one notch tighter. If you do that, I guarantee you won't pull it off by hand next time. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 11:23 am:

What I see from you photos is typical. Clean 'em up an put it back together with new felts. If you want to stop that grease leak, you might want to try some of those new type caps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 06:44 am:

Paul, highly unlikely the wheel has gone all these years "from Ford" untouched. No doubt it's been off at least once and just not tightened and re-tightened as Mike mentions. I agree with Larry, the new type outer caps are great, but go one step further and put in the new style neoprene inner seal also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 08:43 am:

After a few slow test runs, it's advisable to pull down the whole axle and change the babbitt thrusts to bronze. I think it's micro corrosion from bad material, time and environment that's cracking them, so even such a low mileage car may have thrusts that can crack anytime?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 06:12 pm:

Preservation cars, which yours definitely should remain, are special needs and issues. You want to try to keep everything as untouched (from how it left the factory) as can reasonably be done. However, unless the car is to remain on jack stands, locked away in a museum or private collection forever? Some things must be done. I do think it is better for everyone involved, the owner, the public, and even the car, to be kept out and driven at least some amount (with only a few exceptional exceptions like the Rip Van Winkle car). They should be seen and appreciated by more than a handful of people.
That said. Your car is on the fence-line for Babbitt thrust washers. Most brass era Ts came from the factory with bronze washers. Somewhere around '15/'16, Babbitt washers started showing up. Any car (regardless of year) could have had them changed at some time in its past regardless of what it left the factory with.
For safety reasons, the rear end should be opened and the thrust washers checked. If they are both bronze/brass, and everything looks really good inside? Clean it up somewhat and put it back together with good rear-end grease. (Some would recommend putting a tag on one of the housing bolts to prevent anyone in the future having to look inside again). Under most any conditions, Babbitt washers should no longer be left in any car that is to be driven any amount.
I also notice that your car still has the original type (probably actually original) all cast iron brake shoes. That makes it truly a parking brake. Any use of the brake handle while the car is in motion results in severe wear of the drums and shoes and further results in loss of holding ability.
For those reasons, even on a preservation car, I would replace those original shoes with the reproduction lined cast iron brake shoes. With the braking area/parts cleaned and properly adjusted, the lined cast iron shoes will adequately stop the car by themselves under most normal conditions (note, I said "adequately", not "well"). That makes it a true emergency brake, not just a parking brake. Given the realities of driving in modern conditions, I feel that is important. I would clean up the original shoes and display them with the car just to show how the world and times have changed.

Thank you for the updates! I think that car is incredible, to say the least.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 07:45 pm:

thanks guys for all the good info I have read up on thrust washers on old posts and lined brake shoes are a must for all most any driving. the work doesent bother me at all but rite now I am just trying to get it running and move it under its own power for the first time in 70 years. I am being very careful not no damage any thing or even round off bolts if possible.I hate to break apart the front tires. maybe I am nuts but I have been playing with the gas line for 2 weeks to save it but I am in no hurry and I realy enjoy working on the T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 10:38 pm:

Paul -- The gas line may have been replaced. It was brass originally, not copper or steel as most of them are today. So if it's brass, it might be (probably) the original and worth spending some time to save it. If it's copper or steel, you can get a new brass one from Lang's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Saturday, June 13, 2015 - 11:58 am:

it is brass Mike at first I thought it was copper. I never heard of brass lines until this forum! I have learned a lot here!


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