When I put the u joint back in last year the u joint knuckle pin hole did not line up with the ball housing hole so I ground it down and put the pin in on an angle. Now I cannot get it out.
Do I need to take the rear apart to push the drive shaft head ward???
Any suggestions is appreciated. I never took the rear apart. If I do, will gears pop out or can I carefully separate the rear, push the drive shaft and bolt back together.
Thank you in advanced. Bob 1912 rear and two piece drive shaft??
You would have to pull the pinion, sleeve and thrust bearing off the rear then be able to push the drive shaft through the upper bushing. The drive shaft is larger in diameter for most of it's length then the machined upper part that rides in the upper bushing. Isn't the upper bushing in the tube itself not the removable housing?
It could be maybe you are peening it over again. Maybe a better punch would work.
I have never worked on an axle that old but, I believe if you unbolt the driveshaft from the rearend, it will pull out without separating the halves. Once out, you could remove the pinion nut and the pinion and the driveshaft would move forward enough to get the pin out.
Just from the picture it makes me think that the pinion depth is wrong, In general the hole in the drive shaft usually lines up with the hole. Just food for thought. Something just isn't set up right,
Robert, can you put up a photo of both the castings at the front of the torque tube. Perhaps you are the victim of a two piece torque tube being made from a single piece item, and they have not got the casting in the right place on the tube. As Mike says, something is not right.
Allan from down under.
In addition to the pinion depth being too deep as Mike said, the driveshaft bushing must be faced off way too much. It would be a very noisy rear axle with a short life.
You cannot remove the front piece of the torque tube (I don't know WHY it is always called a "two piece drive shaft", it is the torque tube that is in multiple pieces) without first removing the U-joint.
If you remove the torque tube assembly from the differential, then remove the pinion gear from the drive-shaft, you should be able to slip the drive-shaft forward enough (hopefully the bushing will allow it) to be able to easily line up a drill and drill out enough of the pin (always drill such things undersized) to be able to punch the remainder out.
Otherwise, about all you can do is try to very carefully drill out some of that pin in that tight corner of the round hole. Try to not enlarge the hole in either the drive-shaft or the U-joint any. (Nothing quite so nice as avoiding future problems)
I agree. being off center like that indicates that there is a fitting problem. The entire rear end should be disassembled and reworked, all adjustments rechecked and corrected.
One of the best pieces of advice I read here often, is that if you are not familiar with the model T rear end? Buy the book from your favorite parts supplier.
Funny thing. I have never had a copy of the book. I have never even looked closely at one. When I got into the hobby, it wasn't available yet. So, I figured it out and taught myself. But I also made a few mistakes that way. I hear the book is very helpful.
Good luck! And have fun!
One more possibility. If you have gaskets between the sleeve and the driveshaft housing or between the sleeve and the differential housing, you might try removing them which would allow you to push the housing to the rear and allow you to remove the pin.
Thanks for your help. I see a rear take apart in my near future.
Allan from down under writes: Perhaps you are the victim of a two piece torque tube being made from a single piece item, and they have not got the casting in the right place on the tube.
This is a 1912 drive shaft. It has a two piece drive shaft. Should it have a two piece torque tube?
I do not know what they are - yet. I will read the rear book and learn as I go.
Here is a picture of the other side of the u joint.
Robert, it is the torque tube which is in two pieces, not the drive shaft. The ball end of the torque tube is bolted to the front of the tube. These are the two pieces referred to as a two piece torque tube. I need to see all of the two front castings and a little of the tube to be able to tell if it has been made from a later one piece tube. The end of the actual tube is machined for different lengths to take the castings. If that is what you may have, then the piece riveted to the tube may be in the wrong position.
Hope this explains.
Allan from down under.
What are those grooves in front of the flange which is bolted on? Are they threads? If threads, you have a few turns left which would shorten the housing enough to get the pin to line up with the hole.
Norman, now you have me wondering on a different tack. The ball is normally a casting and the flange with the four bolt holes is integral. There is no reason for the machining around the back of the ball shown in Robert's photo. Perhaps a standard ball casting has been machined down and fitted to a made up flange.
I'll have to check the one on my 12 van in the morning.
Allan from down under.
Robert, my 1912 van has no machining around the ball casting in front of the four hole flange. It is one cast piece. Something is unusual with your set up. It could well be that the ball piece has been made from other parts and the four hole flange piece fitted at the incorrect distance, thus spacing your ball too far forward. If you can get it apart as others suggested, this needs to be checked. I do not have a dimension from the back face of the four hole flange to the centreline of the threaded plug hole, but that will tell you if something is amiss, should someone else be able to give you that dimension.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Thanks for your help guys, I will go see a T guy 20 miles away who owns 1912 and look at his. Ultimately I see that I will have to take it apart. At least this will help me understand the workings of the rear.
I checked an old 2 piece torque tube that is caked with grease but it looks like the distance from the face of the torque tube where it attaches to the other piece with the ball to the center point of the hole is 1-1/4". If you want more info I can try to degrease things and get a more accurate measurement. From your picture it looks like the flange is thicker than it should be on your front piece.
Thanks for checking Val, you might be right about the flange. I am trying to take apart the rear now. Please see next thread.
The pinion thrust is always outward, there is nothing in the gear geometry to pull the pinion into a deeper mesh. The pin can be left out, the universal joint will find its own position and everything will work just fine. The only need I see for the pin is to keep the driveshaft assembly together before its installed in the pumpkin.