This may seem kind of funny. I have a TT I'm working on and no matter how I turn it the carburetor control rod won't fit through the slot in the firewall. What am I missing here? Never had this issue before.
Did you try feeding the handle end through from engine side?
Does it have a stock intake manifold? What carb does it have? There aren't too many other possibilities.
I've tried it every way. Has a nh carb on it. All stock. I've worked on T's for years. Haven't had this problem. I could open up handle end and bend it back but just thinking I'm missing something here.
Same here on my tti went from the high to a low medal firewall new repo adjustment wont line up with my stock nh carb
The firewall hole is lower in the low firwall measuring from the top mounting hole at the base bracket
I trying find a ujoint setup as i dont want redrill this
Anyone know were a rod holder bracket can be had as well like that on the model A tank
These photos can be seen as, they are in the wrong order or taking it out but should help in any case. The gap goes to the top and it's tipped in;
I had the same problem. Did exactly what you said. Had to open it up to get through.
If the firewall has been changed at some point, it is possible the correct hole for the adjusting rod may not be in it. The only other was to correct it is to find another, or butcher up the one you have. I had a similar problem with my '25 roadster, and I had to file down the existing hole considerably to get the rod to move freely.
Did it just like Mark's great photos, tipped in it from an upward angle. Works every time.
Is it a stock Ford rod or a reproduction?
Mine was a reproduction. Seemed like the end is just a little too wide. Should be a tighter bend
Calvin this thread might be of some use to you.
The one on the 23 touring I am working on has the repo rod. I just bent it so it now slides and tips in the hole. Someone had spread it out so they could get it in. It now looks a little closer to the one on the left in above photo, not quite but closer.
Yes i can get itvthrough the firewall and put the tips through the carb butvthe whole is in the wrong location to siute a workable angle i probly lengthen the hole
It may be like my early 25 in that it uses a 26-27 style single choke/needle rod.
I cut a little off the handle end of the rod and made it go that way. That way if it did need to be removed it will come out. It's a reproduction rod. Guess it's just not right.
Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate it.
23 low firewall would be way befor the 26-7 parts.
The hole the rod goese through doese allow enouf angel for some reason
So seem others just made the hole longer
By the way it has the holese for the bell crank piece for the choke
Found an orginal adjust rod the loop end is twice the size on the repop ones
Little filing and she reaches fine now to make a new rod that couple inches longer
The carb spray needle adjustment rod was the same from 1917 to 1925 cars and trucks. The hole in the firewall should be in the same relative position from the bottom of the FW to bottom of the hole for all. I found that the long leg on the fork can bind if it's to the rear and use too long of a cotter pin. With the repo I pre adjust the carb for running then install with the long leg to the front which give just enough swing to open for starting.
The end that sticks through the FW only just does and not much more.