Kind of proud of myself this evening. I spent the day machining a pilot that fit the valve seat openings in my block, then followed with a 21/64 drill, 21/64 reamer and finally a piloted valve guide reamer. The result is eight nice shiny stainless valves that slide up and down with no perceptible side play. New seats will be next.
Now the question. Since I'm using modern valves and keepers I assume the stock solid push rods would make adjustment difficult, so adjustable push rods are in the plans. There doesn't look like there's a lot of room between the valve stem end and the push rod portion of the block. Does any cast iron have to be ground/removed to get access to the adjusting stems? I'm not afraid to do it, just want to know in advance. Thanks!
I often grind 1/4" off the boss on the block. I makes adjusting MUCH easier. No problem so far....
Adj lifters? Problem was that we did a complete
build. Every thing ready to go except NO adj
lifters. After a month we put solids back in.
We have a stem grinding attachment for the
valve facing machine. For the fine adjustment
valve stem caps with shims are used from race
supply venders. The problem was the adj. lifters
came in about 8 months later, and I called all
the major supply venders. No one had them in
stock. For 4 clys no big deal but V8s & worse
V12s adjustables are a must. As for grinding
the block we don't we turn cam by hand=adjust
clearance turn cam back one by one (crank not
installed yet so you can see the heal of the
cam. Good job on the pilot. You may have to
machine a tighter fitting pilot so you can
center find for cutting the seats. I assume
you are to cut seats with a boring head on a
mill. Put new seats in the freezer and bag em
Thanks guys. When I get to that point I'll install the adjustables and visually check for "tool clearance".....then decide which way to go, although I suspect I'll have to remove some cast iron.
It's funny, but on my first T.....over 40 years ago...I reused the solids but don't remember having to do any "fancy" adjustment work. The engine ran just fine until divorce took it from me. Henry designed a marvelous piece of machinery! (the car, not the divorce)
It's not necessary to cut the lifter guides back in the block. The two wrench type are easier to adjust but using the three wrench type is no big deal .
It's more work, but the valve can be adjusted without grinding off the guide. I turn the engine over until it raises the lifter up high enough to adjust, and then turn in back down so I can see the clearance. I may have to do this several times to get it right, but you don't do it often!
I do it the same way as Larry. It's a pain in the butt but you really should not have to adjust the valves that often.
Thanks again guys.....I like the "no cut" answers a little better! As long as they can be adjusted without having to modify the block that suits me just fine.