Yesterday, after a nice tour with the club,the ignition switch on my 26 Fordor broke. In order to get ready for the Cockrane Tour, I decided to take the switch out of the 27 speedster until I can locate another NOS key tumbler. On the new reproduction switches there is an extra post beside the bat post that is not labeled. I don't have the instructions that came with the switch and didn't pay attention to the wiring when taking it off the speedster (color coded right?) Well, now I cannot figure out the wiring. If I wire it ignoring the additional post it acts like the ignition is shorted and the coils buzz with switch on or off. Taking the battery lead and moving it over, I get nothing. She will start on mag, lights work, but no coils on mag. I am sure someone has the instructions for these new switches or can tell me how these wires attach.
Here's the catalog drawing to follow.
That 'extra' terminal is shown next to the BAT, but nothing goes there.
Thank you, Dan, The jumper had gotten moved from bat-bat to bat-coil. That explains the short when the battery wire is attached resulting in constant power to the coil. Now I should be closer to being ready to take the Canadian Fordor back to Canada for the tour. I purchased it as a rusty basket case in Sickamoose, BC via T-bay. Saved it from someone who thought better or making a hot rod out of it. He probably saw all that rotted wood and decided there were easier cars to chop!
Dan, where did you get that switch diagram? Is there a similar one for pre-'26 cars? If yes, can you post it here? Thanks!
I don't think there any significant changes from 1920 thru 27, the ammeter on the early cars is larger but I don't know of any electrical changes.
Does anyone else know of any?
That artwork is the splendid creation of Martin Vowell.....he posted it on the forum earlier, and now you can find this great art by Martin in Lang's new 2015 catalog.
Tony is right, no real changes for the '20-'27 as to wiring. Some of the early '19-'20 switches, depending on mfg, have a 'GRD" terminal. Likely for the wood dash car then.
Several other cars used the same or very similar switches they may have needed it depending on their wiring system. With the wooden firewall or wood instrument board and there is no need for it.
Switch now wired in correct, running great, ready for more travels, thank you, Dan.
And thanks to Martin Vowell for some of his great drawings. ( exploded views)
Dan ; where is the Generator connected in the drawing ??
It's nice they are using correct color codes now. I can remember when I started in the early '60s, the color codes were all over the place, and I had to convert all of them. It wasn't fun, not to mention, I don't think they got the wire gauges correct either. Speaking of gauges, they still had the problem recently. I had to have all of my 3 looms custom made, because the so called show quality looms were made incorrectly. I supplied original looms with Ford tags for them to copy. They even wove the Ford tags into my new looms.
The generator wire via the cutout (yellow and black) wire goes to Terminal 1 on the Terminal Block at the firewall. Then that Yellow and Black continues to the BAT terminal on the switch.
That extra post is to provide a ground to a real accessory magneto to turn it off.
The coil wire would go to the Magneto and a grounded wire would go to that spare terminal.
Briggs and Stratton also made those switch units and their units have 3 pins instead of those tabs that often break off.
Then too, the pins can break out of the plastic.
Dale, why don't you see if you can buy a good used switch assembly. It would likely be easier to find than a NOS lock cylinder.
You can buy a new cylinder from MACs for $14.95, but it won't quite work in an old switch. It will work in their repro switches.