You never know what might show up in a pile of parts from a mini storage warehouse.
Here is what showed up. It does fit the rear axle on a T. The slightly rusted engine pan is being used for a background.
I just read the body bracket posting and someone said never throw away a model T part, did they also mean my slightly rusted oil pan????
Yes, Willie, even that pan may have a pair of good motor mount arms, or be useable for yard art. Someone would try to save it if it was from a 1909 10 or 11.
I saw one working a couple of years ago.
Willie, your pulley is meant to take the place of the back wheel and be used as a power take-off. If used without jacking the other wheel, the differential would be working overtime. Maybe that is not a problem.
Alan from down under.
If you jack both wheels up and only put the load on one wheel, it tends to stop the wheel with the load and spin the wheel without the load. That is also why you can run the pulley with one wheel on the ground. There is less force required to turn the one wheel than to turn both of them. That is also why if you have one rear wheel on the pavement and one rear wheel in the slick mud or on the ice you are still stuck. The wheel with the less resistance to turning spins and you donít go anywhere.
If you only occasionally demo the process it probably doesn't matter much. If you were going to use it regularly -- you would want to have a system where the power was taken equally off of both wheels, or the rear axle was locked so the pinion gears didn't turn or off the front of the crankshaft etc. But very few us would be looking at using our T primarily as a power source 7 days a week every week etc.
And for that matter you can look at several old photos and see where they apparently did the one wheel power on a regular basis and still used the T for driving.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Thanks Hap. I realised I'd had a brain fart while machining some safety hubs this afternoon. Of course one wheel needs to be locked, usually by leaving it on the ground!!!. It will result in wear within the diff as you say.
allan from down under.
Allan, I have seen a pully and framework that is made to bolt on the front end of the car and connect to the crankshaft. I think you might have to remove a front wheel to clear the belt.
I think this accessory is very rare.
Here are a few pics of one of the styles of a "front crankshaft drive" unit that I have on my tractor conversion.
Donnie, am I seeing a problem with your crankshaft driven pulley? You show a standard cranking dog at the front. Once the motor is running, that dog will be disconnected and there will be no drive. Should that dog be a special with the engagement ears directly opposite the usual?
Allan from down under.
It won't disconnect as the entire rig is held captive since it's clamped to the crossmember. Hopefully the crank doesn't bind when the engine starts up! Very nice!
Allen, It does not show in the pictures but there is a special notch in the ratchet. A normal Ford ratchet has 4 ramps. The one on the power unit has 2 ramps and 2 notches to engage the pin in the crankshaft pulley. I think I have a pic of the notch. If so Ill post it here. Garnet, You are correct about the power unit crank handle. If I ever use the power unit, I will have the crank handle very well oiled ... This whole unit is designed to attach to the front of the car in less than a minute. You walk to the front of the car with the unit and it slides into position "bayonet style" you then hook the two hooks to the bottom of the axle and latch into position "similar to a chain boomer" It centers and aligns itself. You need to already have the drive dog in position replacing the hand crank. There is no provision to hand crank the car with the drive dog on the car while the PTO unit is removed. So a car with a starter would be handy. Although a hand crank with a "quick pin" would only take another minute or two to switch out...