I find it interesting, that the old metal valve stems manufactured by Schrader, Dill and Bridgeport seem to hold air longer than the modern rubber valve stems. After sitting for a year, my '13 touring was down 15# in the worst tire, 10# in another, and 5# in two. I find that almost amazing! Lets hear it for the valve stem makers that did things right.
Larry do you have original tubes? or most likely did you put stems in new tubes? if so do just cut out rubber stem and put in original hole?
I've been meaning to do an article on this. I actually did submit it, but they returned it to me because there was too much information. Half of it was on installing an old valve stem in a modern rubber stem tube. The other half was identifying the correct valve stems and dust covers to use in a Model T.
Too much information? Why not split it into parts?
Paul - here is how to put stems in new tubes:
That is a great method of installing metal valve stems. I've been doing it like that for years, with no problems. I usually trim down the stem closer to the tube to save a little time.
A&L is the company that had the Model A valve stems reproduced. Wouldn't it be nice if Coker could do the same for Model T's, instead of those big fat vulcanized ones they are selling now!
Larry, did you get my email about my tube and stem? My emails to you are still bouncing back to me several days later.
Are the metal stemmed tubes sold by the suppliers not good for some reason? I JUST installed 4 of them and three are still holding air after two weeks. The fourth went flat but that may be due to my forgetting to fit the bridging washer on that one . . .
I didn't say the metal stemmed valve stems that are currently being made are no good. I said they are not like the originals. Do your homework! The current ones are too big a diameter, and are vulcanized to the tube. I believe they are most likely for a small truck or farm vehicle application. The dust covers aren't even the same, but they are close.
Gee, Larry, I thought I WAS doing my homework by asking YOU who seem to know your onions what it is you didn't like about the current production items.
Why not show the ignoramouses like myself what the differences are? I'm sure others will benefit from your efforts too.
Larry, where do you get your metal stems? I'd really like to find five (at least four) for my 21" tubes.
To Stephen and Paul: I buy my old metal valve stems at swap meets. I usually pay anything from 50 cents to $5 for them. For a T, you want either an Schrader 888 or a 777. If you go any longer than that, you are really going to throw your wheels out of balance. A TR-16 covers all the 888's, but I've forgotten the TR number for the 777. Schrader is the most common, Dill is next, and Bridgeport is #3. The biggest difference is the originals are a SMALLER DIAMETER than the current repops, and therefore no parts are interchangeable. Next, the repops are vulcanized to the tube. The originals were not. Watch the link above, and that should answer most questions. Hope this helps, if not lets keep this going! BTW, TR stands for the Tire and Rim Assn.
Larry, will any of these work or are they too short?
I would assume they will work, IF you have 26-7 wire wheels. I'm pretty sure that Don is buying them from A&L.
I watched for them on ebay and found 10 of the 888 and then installed them in original tubes and they are working great. I found that they come up but in 1s and 2s so you need to win a number of auctions. Cheers Colin