I am considering buying an enclosed trailer. I have been begging and borrowing trailers from friends for years, but it is time to get one for myself.
I would like to be able to haul my '14 T touring and my '31 Model A at the same time.
What height do I need to haul the touring with the top up?
What length do I need to comfortably fit both cars?
Is a bumper pull an option for my desires?
I only want to do this once, what are the best brands out there?
What are the options I should consider?
I am pretty firm on getting a V nose, the aero load from my buddies 24' flat front is enormous. My truck gets the same fuel economy pulling it empty as with a car in it as all the load is aero...
If an A is no longer or taller than your 14, a 24' box will work. A gooseneck pulls good if you'll always tow it with a dually, while a V nose bumper pull can also be towed with a motorhome. I just returned from my first real trip with my new trailer. Box is 24'plus the V-nose X 8 1/2' wide. I hauled a 25 Hack and a 15 touring (top up) and misc "stuff" for 1700 miles round trip, and it did fine. It has 8' walls, drop down spring assisted rear door/ramp, tantem 7K axles, walk in door on pax side, 8' X 8' drop down door on drivers side near front (to load motorcycles or golf cart crossways in front of my TT, extra foot added to tongue (keeps top of V-nose away from back of motorhome when going in and out of truck stops). Also has heavy duty coupler and HD drop-down jack and small steel rollers under back corners.
Keep in mind, you're not going to tow this with an S-10 pickup! Also, beware of the manufacturers that offer you "really great prices--you usually get what you pay for! You can do a search on this and find lots of info where this has been discussed on this Forum. Send me a PM if you want more info. Good luck.
No difference between a flat & V nose as far as fuel mileage of tow vehicle - you lose space on a V nose.
I have towed both thousands of miles.
Your tow vehicle will determine the GVWR rating of the trailer - find out what your particular tow vehicle can safely pull and safely stop.
The rest is details .....
Joe most people that have the option find a 5th wheel or a gooseneck trailer is more comfortable to pull at highway speeds due to the weight being directly over the axle of the tow vehicle, however if you plan to tow with a motor-home so that you always have a place to stay that would require a load levelling hitch especially with a long trailer with 2 cars sway can be a problem without it.
I have what you are looking for...
Please let me know one way or the other, Thanks, Wes
Freighter Jim: Interesting reading what you said about flat vs V nose. A salesman where I got my trailer said the same thing. No difference between the two for mileage. And yet, I read about some guys who swear their mileage is much better???
Jim: PS - There is a huge difference, however, between normal legs and "run over" legs!!!!!! Hope you're recovery is still going well!!!
Here is my experience with trailer manufacturers:
US Cargo - I special ordered one last March 8.5 x 16 flat nose with extra height and it was a complete POS. Spent more time at the dealer getting "repaired" than it did behind my truck. Lost a side panel at highway speed - that was fun.
I just traded it in on a used 2013 Car Mate - 8.5 x 18 with a v-nose. I've only had it a short time but love it so far. The manufacturing of it far exceeds the US Cargo trailer.
Truck is rated for 9,500 lb towing capacity. I have pulled a friend's 24' enclosed flat nose with the T in it without any issue. It was not tall enough so I had to put the top down. It looked like I could also fit the A in it, but it would have been very tight. I was thinking 26' might be more comfy, but wanted to hear from those that have done it.
I really do not want a 5th wheel. I have towed my friend's 24' bumper pull several times without issues.
Wes, I saw your trailer, but you are pretty far from local, (I am in Milford, MI) and I have been leaning towards just buying a new trailer.
It might be nice to have the 7,000 # axels and if possiable the same wheels and tires your truck uses? Is the 9,500 capacity on a bumper hitch?? Would your truck need to weigh 10,000 pounds as it's whats up front that counts?? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Look on Craigs List Seattle. The ladies name is Renee
Truck tires and trailer tires are not interchangeable, even if the wheels and tire sizes are the same. I'm no expert by any stretch, but the trailer tire cords and/or belts are woven differently. I never really understood this issue, but I've come to accept it as a fact. Use trailer tires on your trailers!
I have a high, flat-nose trailer. It is nearly the same shape and height as my motorhome and the air passes right over it. It actually seems to stabilize the motorhome. When I tow it with my pickup, it's like towing a barn! I can really feel the air buffeting on the front of the trailer. A vee-nose surely has to help the air pass the trailer, although I have never towed one. I'm surprised that Jim who has towed so many miles says that there is no difference in mileage, however that may just be the truck. I had a truck that got 10 mpg period. City, highway, uphill or down, loaded or unloaded, it didn't matter, 10 mpg.
Henry,i'm sure your right but some mfg's did and maybe still do put used tires on trailers.I would think there were better choices than the goodyear marathons on mine or some of the Carlyles?? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Bud, my truck weighs 5,600# and has 11,500# towing capacity. The truck does not need to be heavier than the load in order to be safe. Good trailer brakes are necessary though.
Joe, You are 700 miles away from me, to me that means two days up and two days back. I would deliver for gas, food and lodging with receipts.
As far as the spare tire issue, all I want to do is get off the highway as fast as possible and find a tire store that can and will fix my problem.
Thanks for the offer, but I really think I am going to buy new. With new I can configure it exactly as I want. The things I know I want are:
Rear ramp door with torsion spring aids instead of cables.
Brakes in both axles (my open trailer only has brakes in one axle and I did not even know that was possible)
Heavy duty axles
I am looking for other suggestions of options or configuration choices from those that have hauled a lot that I may be overlooking...
Also looking for a brand suggestion. All the trailer manufacturers say theirs is the best, but I want something proven reliable and durable.
For those that asked about the truck, the 9500# rating is for regular hitch towing. The Model A & T and assorted stuff that will end up in trailer cant weigh more than 4000# all together so add another 4000# or so for the trailer and I would be at 8000#. I have pulled 10,000# with it bringing two in ground drive on hoists home on a flat trailer without any issue, except the need to downshift two gears to maintain speed up a very steep hill on a country road.
Truck weighs 6200# full of gas, no cargo or passengers according to the scale at the dump.
Joe,I have not seen the cable less ramp door but i like the sound of it!!!!!!!!!! I like the lights and would not be without my roof vent!! Can you get a door on each side?? Derek,Can you say for sure brakes will help if the tail decides to wag the dog?? Bud,Staying inWheeler,Mi.
Joe - don't forget extra tie down rings or track. Can't have enough of those sometimes
Bud - I've been in a truck where the trailer started to sway - driver stayed on the gas and hit the trailer brakes - worked like a charm
I have a V nose and a Flat Nose trailer and Jim is right. If there is a difference it is so slight that you will never notice it. I had a 24' trailer to tow a T and my little Autocar Runabout. It trailered fine with my 2000 Suburban 1500 series with a standard 350 V8. I found that I so rarely used the trailer for both cars at the same time that it didn't make sense to drag a 24' trailer around so I now have 16' trailers and they are just right. Plenty of room inside and with a light weight T in the box you barely know there is a trailer behind you until you have to stop for gas!
On my 26 ft trailer I put side vents on. One up high in the front, one down low on the other side near the back. Keep them open when going down the road and it suck's all the gas smell's out.
Leg is healing slowly - thanks for asking ...
If I were buying a new trailer - I would have a custom one one built by a manufacturer that stands behind their warranty ...
The manufacturer warranties the trailer when all is said & done.
I am extremely pleased with Colony Cargo Trailers and Tim Woods the owner.
How problems are handled when they come up determine how good a trailer really is.
Send me a PM w/ your phone number or visit my user profile & go to my website and call me.
I will give you objective advice.
I drive a Ford F350 Dually Quad Cab w/ a full fiberglass shell.
7.3 PSD w/ E40D tranny & 4:10 rear differential.
I tow at 55 m.p.h.
I average 10 m.p.g. empty or loaded.
My current trailer is a flat coffin front enclosed that is about 11 feet tall & is just under 40 feet and weighs 5200 lbs. empty.
My previous enclosed trailer was a V nose & about 9 feet tall - 32 feet long and weighed 4300 pounds empty.
No difference in fuel mileage.
I am sure the full length fiberglass cap helps reduce drag but ...
The fact is - the drag is at the rear of a trailer - not the front.
That is why you see " shutters " on the rear of sem-trailers .....
Trailer tires, marked ST for Special Trailer, are rated for 65 m.p.h., and you will be hard pressed to find any that are not made in China. There has been a lot of discussion on this subject on fora (forums) for campers, and a lot have switched to truck tires of equal load rating, and I have not seen any comments on that practice causing problems. Quite a few have had problems with the Chinese tires though. I have not towed with gooseneck or fifth wheel, and I am sure they tow very well, but with a properly set up load equalizing hitch with anti sway geometry, a ball hitch will not create any issues.
I bought a brand new v-nose Aluma Trailer. Very nice trailer, all aluminum, over height to get my 25 coupe in, 16 feet long. I wanted the v-nose as I wanted a longer tongue. Longer tongue makes for easier backing. Aluminum floor, with ramps that slide underneath. I wanted ramps, so I could load other things with a fork lift. I paid $10,000 for it, and have had it 8 years.
The only thing wrong with it was the tires. Everytime we went to Florida from Iowa, I would lose a tire. I finally went to my local tire shop and talked to the manager. He said he would fix me up with some good radial trailer tires. Last 4 years, no trouble with tires. Get the right tires to start with.
Michael - We appreciate the advice on the tires.
Could you please tell us which tires you've had for the last 4 years with no trouble? Tire make, etc.
I'll have to go out tomorrow morning and look, and get back to you. Thanks! Mike
I agree with Jim on fuel mpg, however, my 24 ft V nose has more room than a 24'flat nose. The key is the box size. I have a 24' of wall. (inside tip to tail is closer to 27') The V gives me a place for my hitch receiver welded to a flat
plate attached to the trailer frame. (I can put a winch in it to rescue a dead car.)My trailer spare tire covers the receiver and doesn't interfere with a loaded T. I like my "V" space. Also, Joe, don't just look at the trailer--check out how it's made. I've seen some beautiful trailers that were built with thin wall angle iron frames on 2 ft centers with 3500 lb axles. These are what you get for the "best price on the internet."
Just had a 8.5 x 18 V nose Doolittle trailer built. Just plan on hauling one vehicle. I got the 18 foot so I could carry my 50 Ford but will be mainly hauling my 1911. I had them add 18" highth to clear my 1911. It is best if you measure the needed highth for your T. The 18' gives me 6" length clearance for my Ford sedan and probably 4' clearance for any of my T's. Adding the extra highth was expensive but I did not want to put the tops down. Another thing to consider is a 4' wide door over the wheels on the drivers side. It cost me a little over $300 but it is going to ease getting into and out the drivers door if you haul something wider like my 50 Ford. 15" radial tires, four wheel brakes, LED lights, heavy duty axils, torsion bar springs which puts it a lot closer to ground over leaf springs. $6595.00. Think I am going to like it. O. It has a 36" door in front on right side.
Might add that it has a ramp door spring loaded, one hand operation. The first four feet of the trailer floor is on a slant the same pitch as the ramp when it is down. This added two inches clearance to the highth of the door opening.
Doolittle trailers are made about 60 miles South of me near Fulton, Mo.
Most manufacturers cut the last few feet of a trailer frame to give a " dovetail " at the rear.
That seriously comprises the structural integrity of the trailer and can lead to broken welds & " racking " where the trailer literally vibrates apart ....
Regarding tires ....
ST tires have stiffer sidewall = less flex.
But the treadwear life is less than satisfactory.
On my last enclosed trailer I ran Dextero DHT2 LT tires from Walmart.
Long tread life - no flats.
On this enclosed trailer I just installed a set of ST trailer tires w/ road hazard from Discount.
You can get 12 & 14 ply ST tires.
Since you're building from scratch, I'd like to suggest you put in floor tracks 56" apart. Then use Mac's custom tie-down straps (NOT the Mac's that supplies Model T stuff - a different company altogether). Mac's tie-downs go over the tire and pull straight down to the tracks in the trailer floor. Two BIG advantages:
1. Unlike criss-cross tie-downs, if one of these things gets loose, the other three will hold the car in place because there's no side load.
2. Since you're carrying two cars, you don't have to get between them to tie down the front end of the rear car. And, when you go to untie them, you don't have straps falling into the middle of the trailer where the oil drips are.
And one disadvantage - when you load the trailer, you'd better have the car tires pretty well centered on the floor tracks.
I liken Mac's tie-downs to bra cups - they go over the soft round parts and keep them from bouncing around.
Someone asked earlier what brand of tires I had on my trailer. They are Super Cargo ST205/75R14. It says "Trailer Tire Only". They have been very good tires for me. Mike
Sorry about the on and on but one reply really bothers me![Bud,My truck weighs 5600 and has 11500 towing capacity!! If you have good brakes, the truck does not need to be heavier than the load but you need good brakes! This scares the heck out of me!!!! I thought maybe others would post a few thoughts about it?? Bud.
Michael - Thanks for the tire information.....and you too, Jim.
Since you're ordering a new trailer, I suggest you consider tie-down tracks , front to rear, 56" apart. Then you can drive the cars right onto the tracks and hold them with Mac's Custom tie-downs. (This isn't the Mac's that supplies Model T parts, but a whole 'nother company.) Mac's tie-downs go over the wheel and pull straight down. They're like bra cups - they go over the soft round parts and keep them from bouncing around (!)
1. Because there's no criss-crossing or fore-and-aft pulling, if one tie-down gets loose the others will keep the cars from wandering around.
2. You can stand to the sides of the cars while tying them down, rather than getting between them and getting into all sorts of unnatural contortions.
3. The tie-downs never fall into the middle of the trailer, where the oil drips are.
You have to keep the cars pretty well centered over the tracks when you drive them into the trailer, or the wheel tie-down will pull them to one side.
I have this rig on my 24' Featherlight. I have four antique cars - '13 T, '12 Buick (Model 35, the entry-level touring), '11 Stanley (Model 63 10-horse toy tonneau), and '07 single-cylinder Cadillac. I can put any one car, or any pair except the Buick and Stanley (which, together, are too long for the trailer and too heavy for my tow car), in the trailer and find a place right under each wheel to tie it straight down.
Sorry for posting twice -- I thought my first post had been lost in cyberspace.
I am perpetually lost in cyberspace ....
Not sure why you're so alarmed by that Bud, that's the rated towing capacity from the factory, and that 5600lbs is with a full tank of gas and me in it. The truck is a Silverado 1500 crew cab with "max towing package" and the 6.2L and the HD axles, brakes, coolers, etc.
The new RAM 3500 dually diesel is rated to tow 30,000lbs and you can bet the truck doesn't weigh over 8,000lbs.
Regarding the curb weight of a tow vehicle in relation to the trailer being towed:
Specifically the 2015 Ram diesel dually rated to tow 30,000 pounds ...
Check out @ https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2015_ram_3500_towing_charts.pd f
In the top chart you will see that GVWR is 14,000 pounds for that model.
That means unless you are exclusively towing a recreational vehicle of some type - you will need a CDL to tow any type of trailer because the GVWR exceeds 10,000 pounds.
THanks for all of the comments. Some questions still remain. For an a and a T, what length would everyone suggest? should I figure total vehicle length plus a foot in front, a foot in back and a foot in-between?
Is E-track strong enough to tie a vehicle down?
What about brands? It looks like about $10K gets a nice trailer. The guy that cuts my lawn purchased a Stealth Viper and he loves it. I also looked at haulmark since I have heard that name. Has anyone used either of better yet both? Opinions?
Joe,I have owned our Haulmark bought new for 16 years but i think like a model T it may be a cheaper start to the hoby?? Myself if i were to haul two i would go at least 30' of useable deck,7,000 axels,8'6" wide,side doors on both sides,and it would be a fifth wheel hitch!!! Our country moves on a fifth wheel hitch with weight distrubtion usually 2/3's on the tractor and 1/3 on the trailer!!!!!!! As long as your not comerical like my spelling you can do about anything you want?? With a fifth wheel hitch you have a much less chanch of the tail wagging the dog!!!!!!!!!!!! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Measure your vehicles.
Add a foot in between and a foot to the front & rear - 3 feet extra overall.
E trac is fine but get the 50,000 pound rated that is thicker & use every bolt hole - drilling thru the wood floor is adequate.
Try to have e trac positioned so it is centered over a framing member for maximum support.
Colony Cargo Trailers @ http://www.colonycargo.com/
Talk to Tim Woods - owner
Don't have this one but I think my next one would be a Featherlite. might be more $$$$ but I like the Alum for weight. You need more that 12" front-back-between. Maybe if you don't haul both car very often it might OK. The extra room is worth the extra bucks. Make sure you get the widest so you have room inside I can barely squeeze by on either side but my wheels are just as wide. only advantage is i can see behind me a bit easier.
A door on each side is really nice cause parking in a crowded lot with lots of other trailers allows you to use either side. Lights and more lights cause when you really need them you'll be thankful if you have to do any work inside at night. I painted mine white inside which really is nice. A small work bench at the front with a vise is also great, Like a light wt weight winch to drag in a dead car or parts is worth considering. You can always add a fold down bunk like I have seen then a kitchen sink to wash the grease off. So where you stop or what meets your needs is really up to you and what you trailer.
Here's another thought for you... Pressure sensors are available for your tires like in cars. These might give you a warning just before the tread flys off tearing off your nice new fenders. My thought is that with dual axle trailers, I think making very sharp turns and skidding the tire may be a cause of tread early separation. I do know that when it happens it can be hard on the fenders..
Enjoy your new trailer.
Tire pressure sensors are an excellent idea ...
In a few places in this thread I noticed a reference to using a motor home as a tow vehicle. I've been doing this for many years. Please look at the specs of your motor home to see what the max tongue weight is. Many are not set up for much weight as the rear end of the vehicle is only angle iron and not the frame. I have a 1999 Ford chassis Southwind Storm with the 10 cyl engine. It is great for pulling my 16 or 24 foot trailer but if you look under the rear end of my motor home you will notice I-beams extending the original frame to the hitch. I saw a motor home that the bedroom had dropped about six inches with the sides wrinkled. The overhang of these motor homes can be 7 to 10 feet with just 3 X 4 angle iron to support the weight. Just my .02.
That is great info. I don't own a motorhome but I would have never guessed that. Being built mostly on 1 ton chassis I would have thought they we all up to the task. If I ever buy one I now know to look at the rear of the frame.
Regarding tandem axle trailers. I had an incident with a borrowed trailer a few years ago that left me wondering if "they're all that way".
We lost a wheel bearing on one wheel. What to do next ? We were in a bad place to stop and there were no services available nearby. So I decided to remove the one wheel and slowly limp a few miles to where I could get help or at least park the trailer in a secure spot.
When I removed the one wheel, the suspension rotated such that the bare axle would have drug on the ground. I was screwed. Couldn't move with the wheel installed & couldn't move with it removed.
Had to leave trailer (with valuable car inside) alongside the road and drive truck to an RV store where I could buy parts the next day. Then go back to repair trailer. The trailer sat untended for a day because the problem happened on on a holiday.
Are there any suspension designs where one axle will remain off the ground with it's wheel removed ? Even a dog can navigate on 3 legs !
It would be my guess that you had removed the wheel from both ends of the axle you might have been able to go slow?? I would also guess your odds are better twin or even tri axle than single?? It has often scared me to see people put large amounts of time and money on or in a single axle rigg or haul sub standard!!!Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
No, I thought of removing the opposite wheel, but then I'd have had both ends of the axle on the ground. The problem was a sort of treadle affair connecting the front and rear springs. When a wheel was removed the treadle link moved full travel and allowed the unshod axle to go clear to the ground.
I have a friend who made a sling affair to hold the unshod axle end up off the ground in just such an instance. Shame I don't have a picture -- it's much clearer to see rather than to explain.
I agree that dual axles are much better at carrying a load. But as far as being able to limp on with a bad bearing or seized brake, forget it. On such a suspension design you are out of business when any one wheel goes south. Of course that's true of a single axle trailer as well, but you only have half as many wheels to go bad on a single axle trailer.
I still don't know if all tandem axles have that same suspension design. If I were in the market for a trailer, that would be a deal breaker for me.
Lindbergh made a similar judgement on the selection of a plane to fly across the Atlantic. There was no twin engine airplane at the time that could continue on for any distance on just one engine. That meant that he was going into the water when an engine failed, twin or single. So a twin engine airplane did nothing more than double the chances of a failure.
I've heard that on some axle configurations you can put a 2x4 block in or a install a short chain around the axle to a frame member to hold it up from dragging.
Both would require a little preplanning.
So far I've only had to deal with flat tires. I carry a IR temp sensor which I use at fuel or rest stops.
Dick,I'm not positive about my torsion axles under the car hauller but one dark night i ground a tire off the rear axle and it never even dammaged the rim! We were 110 miles north of White Horse in the Yukon and a friend broke the ends off the both springs on the lead axle on his 5'th wheel!! We went to work jacking and blocking and the axle stayed under the trailer held by the blocks and the unbroken ends of the springs on the back side of the axle. We made it slow about 10-15 miles to a rv camp and went to work.I know it was 110 miles back to White Horse because even with a print showing a center to center distance of 261/2" eye to eye a dumb kid gave him two springs about 4" short because he said you do not tape springs center to center he went around the spring and our friend go back again the next day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We went 12,500 miles on our Alaska trip alone!! I would sure like to go back again and spend more time as we rushed through and only spent 90 days! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I keep extra trailer wheel bearings in the storage bin under the rear seat in my truck.
I measured the T and it is every bit of 11 feet long. The A is every bit of 13 feet long. Combined that is 24 feet, so I think I need a 28 foot trailer to move them both...
I measured the T and it is every bit of 11 feet long. The A is every bit of 13 feet long. Combined that is 24 feet, so I think I need a 28 foot trailer to move them both...
I appreciate your tips, but am not likely to go with Colony Cargo. They are kinda far from me in Michigan, and there are a lot of companies in the Indiana area.
The Viper / Stealth trailers look nice, but part of me says to just go with a more well known brand like Haulmark, Wells Cargo, since I do not know what to look for. When I talk to any trailer dealer, they tell me their trailers are the best and everyone else makes crap. Who are the big names out there that have a long reputation of quality product?
I have heard that Haulmark is a "middle of the road" trailer quality-wise. We have one at work and it has leaked from new. (dealer closed 3 weeks after the purchase).
I have a friend with what is now an older featherlite (he bought it new) and although it is light to tow it stress-cracks easily and has been welded often.
I lost a wheel bearing on the front axle of a loaded two axle flatbed. I was miles from nowhere and too lazy to unhitch. I removed the front tire and placed a bottle jack between the rear axle and the frame to lift the front axle (I had no blocks of wood) I drove on at 10-15 miles an hour until I reached civilization and had the bearing replaced.
You may want to look at Cargo Mate. They are a Forrest River Co out of IN. with dealers across the USA. One of Buffet's many companies.
As far as options, one I haven't seen mentioned here is corner post jacks. They will allow you to move a vehicle in and out without the trailer hooked to a tow rig.
If money is no object another company is Jimglo.
Floyd - I was just looking at web sites of a couple, in fact, three web sites of brand names that are affiliated with Forrest River including Cargo Mate, but I sure can't find any dealers in Western Washington! Do you know of one? Seems like most enclosed car-hauler trailers are built in Indiana and the Southeast, with very few dealers out west here. I sure like the look (and prices) of Freedom trailers, but they're sure not available out West here that I can see,......harold
There are Cargo Mate dealers in Chehalis, The dealers name is Bulldog Trailers. In Olympia it's Olympic Trailer and Truck. 7830 Martin Way E., Olympia. www.olympictrailer.com
Forest River / Cargo Mate has plants in IN, GA, OR, and TX.
I was looking at a 24' Cargo Mate Eliminator model it was $8999. at Olympic.
Harold, buy an enclosed trailer and you'll find out you have way more friends than you ever dreamed of!
Ha, ha,....thanks Floyd! Those would be the same friends that I acquired when I got the pick up truck, or would there be MORE new friends? Well, either way, it's okay I guess.
Thanks for the "tip" on the dealers. So,....Forest River DOES have a plant in Oregon, huh? That's encouraging. I'll have to take a trip down to one or both of those dealers and see what I can learn. I know just what I want, only thing is the $$$ problem. Extra height, vee nose, slant roof in front, etc, etc. All custom stuff I'm afraid. Fun to keep "researching" though. Maybe someplace out there, someone builds a "standard" model with some of the same ideas I have. Thanks again Floyd,....harold
If you buy anything manufactured by Forest River or its subsidiaries, have a good look at the trailer. Make sure to push in on the front panels to see how far they flex in. Mine pushed in about 4 inches before hitting anything solid, which ended up literally pulling itself apart at is was pulled down the road. I was told that they are "all built that way now" and the trailer was perfectly fine. lol
Joe: I am not going to read all the posts, but here are some of my comments. Tall enough to put your car in (and any future cars 'cause there will be) without putting the top down. I know the extra height will cause more drag, but how many times are you going to tow with the added convenience. Longer than you think you need, 'cause you might buy something along the way, plus room for ice chests, tools, chairs, etc. On my trailer I had rebar run horizontally in several heights so I can tie stuff to it with bungie cords, etc and hang my side curtains from the top runner. 12 volt and 110 lights and all metal trailer so no wood to paint or rot. Several sets of tie downs, but no e track in floor cause stuff falls in slots. Torflex axles and best tires you can afford. Just my 2 cents. Regards, Tim
I like those ramps - good idea ...
Hi Jim, How's the leg and trans? Since you are the only person that realizes this trailers potential, I would like your opinion, what do you think about nitrogen filled tires, this trailer has four of them, also do you think my merchandising is good bad or other? Seems to me nobody is interested in this trailer. Those ramps are 14 feet long, they are 2x8 treated bottoms with 2x6 sides. They are heavy so I mounted fixed rollers to the bottom, that way I just lift the ramp enough to set the roller on the trailer floor and pick the other end up and drive it wherever I want them too rest. Wes
Apologies to the OP for the thread hijack ....
I think your trailer is reasonably priced.
I would suggest you take a picture of your Model T on the ramps being loaded in the trailer.
Being in Missouri does not help - the economy is not the best.
Send me a PM w/ your email.
I will reply & you can send me some images.
I will put your trailer on some sites I belong to & pass along your contact info ....
Leg is coming along slowly.
I am getting a drop in E4OD unit shipped in to Albuquerque - should be here Friday.
I am pleased with my 2008 Worthington aluminum trailer which I found on Craigslist
Your trailer is a little too short for my needs, but you asked for feedback... When considering new vs used, I basically ruled out used as they lumped into 2 categories. Well used / beat for ~$4000 which I did not want to deal with, or well maintained used for $6000 - $8000.
A new trailer will be about $10K built to my specs. It will have a warranty, brand new tires, wheel bearings, and brakes, all the new features like LED interior lights, and 110V hookup, etc, and be built exactly to my spec. Considering that, the discount for a nice used is not enough for me to settle. Others may be in a different place, but I try to do things once and not settle. I also "overpaid" for my T, but I got exactly the one I wanted...
Jim's suggestion of posting on trailer websites is a good one as it will bring a wider audience.