I got everything ready to replace the bands in the transmission, tell me an easy way to lift the hogs head off.
John - I've certainly adjusted bands enough, but never really replaced bands. And as far as "lifting the hogshead off", I've never done that either, but reading the forum regularly for several years, I've read about it enough, but I have never, and I mean "NEVER" heard anyone say it was easy!
I can't speak for all years, but with my 1910 I had to remove all 4 bolts around the universal joint on the rear of the hogshead. Even then, there was barley enough room to pull it off. If you have the time and machine shop, I would recommend adding O rings to each shaft to reduce oil leaks. It will require removing each shaft and cutting a groove for the O rings. I watched several videos before attempting the band replacement operation. I used Kevlar bands from Langs. My bands now work great and I have not had to adjust them after the first few trips. Good Luck!
I forgot to tell you that it is necessary to put the brake lever in neutral or even all the way forward.
Do your bands have the "quick change" type connectors? If so, the hogshead may not need to be removed. It is my understanding they were developed to make the job easier without removing the hogshead.
There is no easy way but it is a lot easier in the early cars without front doors and starters. I made up a gizmo to lift the hogs head and lower it in place as my back is not what it used to be and that does help when maneuvering it. Fortunately, with Kevlar bands you don't have to do it very often. I have had the same bands in one of my cars for more than 10 years and hope to get another 10 years out of them!
Try to keep the bolts in order as you remove them.
Some holes are for nutted cap screws, some are tapped and of differing lengths.
I recommend cardboard with punched holes to keep them in order.
Goop the front corners where the hogshead sits too.
I forgot to mention zip ties for holding the bands on the drums while you wrestle the hogshead into place are your friends too.
John, when i removed mine i replaced the top felt gasket with the new neoprene gasket the vendors sell, it makes a huge difference in oil leakage. And like Craig said, goop those corners good.
There is no "easy way." I'd rather pull the engine and do it on the engine stand than try to do it in the car.
The shop manual says changing the old design bands you have to remove the cover and the job takes 53 minutes. With the new design you can do it through the door and it takes 40 minutes. Ha! Those time studies assume you're an experienced Model T mechanic who has done the job many times. Having the new design bands in my touring, I installed them through the door. It took me only a couple of weeks. I'd work at it for a couple of hours, quit to cool down, and come back to it the next day. Would I do it again? Having learned what to do, and perhaps more importantly what NOT to do, sure. I bet I could do it in less than a week the second time.
I have the quick change type John speaks of above and I never remove the hogs head to change them.
Harold; You're in for a treat the first time you change them. Call me and I'll help.
John, who is selling a neoprene replacement for the felt gasket? I don't see it in any of my catalogs.
I believe RV Anderson used to supply them.
I changed the brake and clutch bands in my '23 over the past weekend with the hogshead on the car. Total time was about three hours including riveting the new Kevlar band liners to the bands. The reverse band looked good so I left it alone.
On my Vaporized '26 you have to remove the exhaust manifold.
Is this the case with earlier cars
Chris -- If you're asking about removing the hogshead, the answer is yes, you do need to remove the exhaust manifold to do that.
If your lucky enough to have an aluminum hogshead, its pretty easy. About an hour to do the job, but add another hour for tying all the wrenches, springs, washers, and nuts to dental floss in case you drop something.
I taken the 4 u joint bolts out jack up rear wheels enouf to get a 4x4 under them place it just ahead of center lower the car this drive the rear end drive line back gives just the little extra
But it's not an easy job I have removed the motor on
Few and feel it makes a hard job easyer
Taking the hogshead off my '13 was the easy part. Putting it back on was the hard part, and like Craig said, lots of goop in the corners! I didn't have to remove the exhaust manifold.
I removed the hogshead on my vaporizer equipped 27 without removing the exhaust manifold. I did loosen the rear shackles to allow the 4th main to slide back to get the ears clear of the firewall. All up it was a horrible job, first time I didn't seal up where the felt was and had puddles of oil leaking out. Got it 2nd go but I think it would have been easier to pull the engine out.
I did manage to drop something in the transmission, which must be compulsory for all first time band changes. Flexible magnet had it back out after a few minutes fishing.
On my '26 Touring the exhaust pipe is in the way, if I were to remove the low band adjusting screw. Being in "The Foggy Islands", is your T a right hand drive? If so, that may make a difference.