Tony Bowker said:
If you use Kevlar, preferred in my book, follow the instructions to the letter, just as Norm indicates. They will last years.
My new motor has Kevlar bands - Please tell me what letters I should follow!
Initial adjustment, breaking in and subsequent adjustment.
I am an equal opportunity band user...3+ cars each differently equipped.
Kevlar can work well for years as you allude, then again they can last for a few hundred miles and 'perhaps' crack a drum in the process.
You're an engineer...Kevlar has a 15% greater give or take higher coefficient of friction than real Scandia...Kevlar can NOT transmit heat too well...Kevlar can NOT soak up oil to squish out with each 'press' and act as a heat transfer medium as it does in the twill of the Scandia...
If they were put in eggy in a thru the door install, you will rub a drum and depending on the 'egg', the drag...you can do 'round' in a thru the door, it just takes patience...
Folks think I'm nuts but....I install them near loose to the point it is near ridiculous to go for the first ride...I do not feather either going into low or going from low to high (It's not impossible, folks could learn to drive that way if they wanted...just need a little stick work with spark and throttle). Clutch work is almost a dump...but don't dump to a shudder as that's tough on a crank.
On slowing, brakes on/brake off in a bit of a pumping action that becomes second nature...since it is a sliding friction to brake, you want oil to get 'in' to flush some heat every now and then and then come right back at it. (I think I pump maybe 3 times, sometimes 2 on a stop from 35-40)Throttle up and let the engine provide some dynamic braking. On both of these a parking lot is your best venue to learn.
Do the first ride and if real loose by transmitted power, stop immediately and take a turn on the adjusting screw, they again, and again until you do creep up on both low speed and on brake...button it up and have fun...
Also, if a buddy has a trailer you 'might' want to check your tightness by pulling up the incline ramp. If it slips in low...stop...take a half turn and try again, in short order Goldilocks Theorem gets you where you want to be.
You 'might' need to go back in once or perhaps twice a hundred or so miles later as they seat and 'take their shine'. You may not even have to as I've done several that did not require the reseat.
Folks will say I'm crazy and OC...too much attention to unneeded detail...but...I've never cracked a drum and never had a lining fail...
If you are not band savvy...Kevlar is probably a bad first choice IMHO unless you are willing to sneak up on how to set them.
(IMHO having been and continuing to be an equal user...the most forgiving is wood and they can be installed thru the tranny door 'round', it just takes forever and you cuss a few times.
I have made old band metal round on an anvil rod and gotten thru the door round...but buying wood bands from Jim can come mounted and 'rounded' by Jim as an option for not too much more money.)
George, great way of describing the Kevlar "pkg." A lot said in short amount of words, and right on!
Wow! George used a bunch of letters!
I will have a hard time following all of them but will be in trouble if I don't
My driving style is to press hard and quick so things don't slip.
Sounds like I will need to modulate my braking. The new AC brakes will most likely help.
Pardon me while I read George's letters again