I tow a 22 foot enclosed trailer to haul Model T's and other collector cars. I've recently decided to install a roof mounted 115 volt AC unit. Anyone have a recommendation on the brand? I am liking the advertised features of the Coleman units in the 15,000 BTU size.
Coleman or Dometic but the question is how well is your trailer insulated most haulers are not insulated at all this could be a problem in the summer sun if you can't find a shade tree to park under.
Many of the enclosed trailers I've seen will not even hold a person on the roof trying to mount it!
Instead of a roof mount, if there is the room, consider a basement mount, basically a standard window unit without the housing. I have a 15000 btu on the rv and use a 5000 btu ( window mount ) on our sailboat.
Unless your trailer was braced specifically for a rooftop a/c - not a good idea ...
Better off to get a portable a/c unit on casters for home use - try it out first to see if it will be adequate.
Then you can cut intake/exhaust holes in the floor/wall for fresh airintake/exhaust.
When you change trailers - you can move the portable a/c unit.
If the trailer isn't insulated, would not the cool air cause condensation on the warm metal?
The portable units use floor space and use a huge duct for the "hot" side. The duct is about 8-10" in diameter and must be vented to the outside without obstruction. It also must be drained every few hours. (Or drill a hole in the floor for the drain hose.)
I think a permanent/semi-permanent mount unit would work better. You may have to add structural braces and insulate the trailer for best performance. Motorhomes with roof AC units have special braces in the roof to support the weight. Newer units are "central air" mounted on the floor or in the basement. But that requires additional duct work and distribution panels.
Also, have you determined how the AC unit will be supplied with power? Most will require 15A service but 20A wiring is better. That translates to a 3000 Watt generator to cover startup load. Or park where you have access to 30A mobile service socket. And you'll need the service line and plug with a place to store it when not in use.
Plan the install down to the detail or you'll have a mess of fire-hazard spaghetti wire.
I can accommodate a structural beef up if it is needed. I am a mechanic. The roof is welded steel tubing, with aluminum sheet. I may insulate the roof too. None of those things make me want to buy a different trailer for more money.
I plan to wire the trailer with appropriate wiring to support the AC unit and also outlets for lights, battery charger, etc. Again this sort of thing is right up my alley, being a competent and skilled avionic / electrical tech. I have a suitable gas generator.
Royce, I too plan to make my Haulmark trailer into an overnighter for tours. My roof is real flimsy, in fact Haulmark said not to walk or sit on it. I have decided to spray Foam the entire trailer with a kit you can get on-line. That would be after I remove all the vanity panels. I have decided to put the air conditioning unit in the front of the trailer. I would get the smallest window type unit. To cover it for winter and transport; I will have a snap on cover made of insulated fabric. I have bought all the electrical for it and will mount the outlets in conduit on the outside of the vanity panels. I have located a company that makes folding dinette seats that fold on the wall. www.blazinbelltech.com/tables
My link does not work. the name of the company is: Blazin Bell Tech, they are located in Las Vegas, NV.
I have a Coleman 15000 btu on my 31 ft. motorhome. It does a good job of cooling it. You will see a lot more Colemans being used than any other brand.Had a Coleman 13500 on my old 28 ft. motorhome. It worked well too. They are also available with a heat strip to provide a little warmth when needed.
Remember going down the road in the rain that window unit is going to be a funnel bringing in water into the trailer.
Also be SURE that spray stuff is not corrosive. Most of it will hold moisture and create all kinds of issues.
To be honest,If a person could not walk or mount a unit on top of the trailer,I would be concerned about snow load if left outside in the winter.
The Duo therm that is on top of my home built camper serves me well. It is from a 1972 Winnebago.It ran 5 days straight up till this morning while I was at the threshers reunion.
A very good friend of mine that passed away a few years ago who coauthored of some of the books used for rv repair training,preferred Dometic .In his classes he had more donated Colemans with issues than Dometics.
I have used Coleman's over the years with good luck.
The wood frame trailers use a couple of 2x4's for support. The unit doesn't weigh very much.
If you plan on sleeping in the trailer they have models with a thermostat which shuts it down between cycles.