Front wheel bearing question on the 16

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Front wheel bearing question on the 16
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Friday, July 03, 2015 - 08:52 pm:

I took off the left front wheel the hub cap was not on all the way but fought all the way off with a strap wrench. no cotter pin the greese was hard as rock somebody hammered on hub. threads are nicked up. only good thing races and balls look fine. and spindle is good My question is what holds race in? I think it is just pressed in? And does iner come out after taking out seal? Are there dies available for hub cap threads?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James J. Lyons III - West Virginia on Friday, July 03, 2015 - 09:18 pm:

Paul.. The inner and outer races have to be driven out. They are pressed in. Usually, if they are in there good, they get deformed when you drive them out, rendering them useless. Also, your pics are not very clear, but from what I can see, the races need to be replaced. You need to very carefully inspect the ball tracks - where the balls ride. If there are any pits at all, they will grow into craters and the bearing will eventually fail. Replacement balls are available at Langs and they are cheap. DO NOT USE the old balls... it ain't worth it. Lastly, I never recommend converting to Timkens on these early hubs. They can stretch the outer part of the hub and cause cracking. Good luck with your project!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Friday, July 03, 2015 - 09:41 pm:

James did you mean Spindle instead of "stretch out part of the HUB"? Seems like the Hub would be in compression but not so with the spindle.

I've been running Timkens now for years but sure would not want any cracking going on with the speeds I run! How many have you seen with cracks. I haven't seen any threads here on the forum.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, July 03, 2015 - 10:37 pm:

Go ahead and use what you have for now, but don't go too far. If there are pits in the races, or anything else abnormal, I would recommend finding good substitutes. The ball bearing races are getting difficult to find these days so be patient. For now, clean them good and grease them up with the old style wheel bearing grease. I guess the new stuff is ok too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Saturday, July 04, 2015 - 06:50 pm:

James the ball track does look good on the left side I took off the right side it looked like it was never off but the iner that screws to spindle has a few pits the cup looks good the balls look good. How can I get the iner seal off without ruining it? Both are prudden and are probley original the balls look good and the iner part that stayed on spindle look good thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 11:58 am:

If you tap the outer race with a wood dowel evenly all the way around, it should push it out ok. Save those retainers too. Randall Anderson is the only one making them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 01:00 pm:

Before getting some new wheels made, I researched ball bearings versus roller bearings. Theoretically at least, rollers are likely to last longer because the weight is spread over the length of a roller rather than concentrated on the single point of a ball. But that's not what persuaded to go with Timkens. It was the availability of parts situation. RV makes the ball bearing retainers, and the balls are a generic item widely available. But some of the other parts are scarce and getting more so. A few of the dealers list a few of the parts in their catalogues, but some of the pieces have become so rare that nobody lists them. Nobody is making most of these parts, so eventually even the die-hard traditionalists will be dragged kicking and screaming into the twenties.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 01:23 pm:

thanks guys I packed the balls with greese and put it together I will take it apart again later the balls all look good the right inner screw in race has a small pit and I didnt check inners at all but at least its all greesed up I wanted to go for a ride!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 01:32 pm:

Good for you, enjoy your drive! :-O


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James J. Lyons III - West Virginia on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 03:48 pm:

Paul,
I'm sorry I'm so late responding. I was gone all day yesterday for the 4th activities! Larry is correct... Pack them good and you can drive them around the block or to the icecream shop. I'd avoid any long tours until you get good replacements.

No, I meant the outer part of the hub will spread by using timkens. The races are much more stiff and don't conform to the inside of the hub when pressed in. So it stretches them and you can often tell because when you drive them in, suddenly you find that your brass cap won't screw back on. So stay with the ball bearing types.

The outer threaded cone that you photographed can be purchased as NOS from Langs. They are cheap... however, other than the balls, they are about the only parts that can be readily found. So I'd buy yourself a set of those.

One last thing... I buy up the ball bearing assemblies when I can find them. I don't have many sets, but I do have some spares. I then re-grind the bearing surfaces of the races and cones and then mirror-polish them. That practice has given me exceptional longevity of the bearings. So when you take them back off, if you notice anything bad going on, contact Bob Berstadt and purchase some from him. But even his sometimes come through with pits or rust that need to be ground away and polished. I can help you with that if you get to that point.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 03:52 pm:

Jim call me Monday I should be able to fix you up, Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 03:54 pm:

Sorry I meant Paul, Jim is here at the shop, Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By paul iverson freeport ill. on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 06:05 pm:

James I will take them apart before any long rides! and Bob I need a few more things from you water tube some more iner tubes I am going to try putting original stems in them. I did get hub cap to go on better with some careful fileing. thank you guys


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Sunday, July 05, 2015 - 09:25 pm:

Paul: If you can go to Hershey in October. You may just become an addict, as I have been for over 30 years!


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