I found this today, none of my other Wire wheels have the valve stem on an angle. Is this an issue that needs addressing or should it be ok left as it is? Ta
Your tube looks like it slipped inside the tire. Sometimes this is caused by driving on under inflated tires. It should be corrected or it could cut the stem and cause a leak.
Side note -- for the 21 inch balloon tires on the front of the Ton Trucks they recommended 40 psi ref: Jul 1926 Service Bulletin.
Hap l9l5 cut off
(Message edited by hap_tucker on July 04, 2015)
Yes, you should address it. It will work like that but it will usually case the stem or tube to start leaking sooner than if it was perpendicular to the wheel.
To correct the problem, deflate the inner tube most of the way. (You don't want all the air out but you do not want any pressure against the sides of the tire. I.e. remove the valve core, let it all the way out and then put the valve core back in loose.) If you can straighten it up easily, do so and re-inflate.
If you cannot easily straighten it up, i.e. if you let go of the stem it goes crooked again, then compress the sides of the tire so it becomes loose from the wheel on both sides of the wheel (called breaking the bead by some of us). Rotate the tire on the wheel to straighten up the valve stem.
Refill with air. And I was taught to then remove the valve core and while the air is coming out to bounce the tire to make sure there were no wrinkles in the tube. I'm not sure how much that really helps or not. As initially I don't think the tube would move with 35 psi in the tire. But that was what I was taught.
If you don't do anything it will likely cause the stem to develop a leak. Note, I would guess the tire is / was on your rear wheel that had brakes/acceleration. If the tire is run low on air and the brakes hit hard the tire can slip a little. If it was on the front wheel it probably was initially assembled that way.
How much air pressure? In the Mar 1926 Service Bulletin Ford recommended different air pressure depending on the body styles for the 21 inch balloon tires.
All were 27 psi for the front and 27 in the rear for Roadster, Coupe, and Touring , but 30 in the rear for Sedan and Roadster Pickup.
But the Sep 1927 Ford Service Bulletin said to inflate all 4.40/21 balloon tires front and rear on all models to 32 psi.
And those same 21 inch tires on the 1928-29 Model A Ford were recommended to be inflated to 35 psi front and rear.
So you have a range of 27 to 35 depending on which Ford source you want to use for the 21 inch balloon tire.
If it is your spare tire -- you can fix it later, but I would recommend fixing it.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Thanks Guys, Hap the wheel is off the rear of the speedster I have recently purchased but haven't driven far yet so not sure what the cause was. Its pretty light in the rear so I guess a lower pressure once fixed. Thanks for the instructions. Found it when I pulled the hub off to see if the split pin was missing off the spring perch and found it wasn't just missing a split pin, there is no Castle nut either!
That is a good reminder of why we need to check over a "new to us" car as well as our own cars. Even good mechanics can sometimes get in a rush and button things up temporarily and then forget to come back and finish the job properly. They may do it because they need to move the car or they were distracted or for some other reasons.
Many of us have heard the stories of folks saying, "I worked on my such-and-such part of my car. And I had these parts left over. Are they important and if so where do they go?"
Based on those two findings -- nut missing from an important place & valve stem out of place. I would suggest you run a safety spot check of other areas also. For example is the cotter pin and nut on the same part on the opposite side? Just for your peace of mind I would recommend you run the safety checklist from the MTFCA. From http://www.mtfca.com/Manual.pdf and used by permission:
The above checklist would not have found your missing nut issue, as it was hidden. But if you run this checklist and find other items that are not correct, then you should check further (for example with a three dip pan, are there cotter pins in the #4 connecting rod? That one is hard to reach and if you are going to cut corners – that is one that would be tempting to cut).
Related threads – the photos below are from the thread at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/372536.html?1373070610 where Eric Hylen posted the coupe photos – yes, missing cotter pin followed by missing nut:
Similar event in 2007 from the Jul 2007 Puget Sound Model T Ford Club newsletter (previously available at: http://www.pugetsoundmodeltclub.org/July2011.pdf but not there when I checked today). It had the same cotter pin issue and loss of steering.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Better check every fastener on that car, even the ones that look tight and are cotter pinned or wired.
Just because something is cotter pinned, doesn't mean that it's (still) tight!
Good advice, makes you think.