Well, I guess most people are busy with family and clubs this holiday. So, I guess for a change, I will start this topic.
After a significant interruption after finally getting started on serious work on the major '15 runabout project? I went out and tinkered for awhile today. Just over two weeks ago, I had just finished making, fitting, and trimming the five wood pieces that attach to the steel seat frame for upholstery to tack onto. All that was left was to drill, tap, and install. Those would be the last steps before the seat frame itself can be installed to the new wood framework. I had to work a little slow, but those wood pieces are now installed onto the seat frame. Maybe? Tomorrow maybe I can install the seat frame?
I will call that a good day.
Enough about me. What is everyone else getting done on their Ts?
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Yesterday I put one of Bob's swell flag sets on my roadster, intending to drive it to town. It was not to be. The thing has gotten harder and harder to start lately, and now it wouldn't start at all. So this evening I took off the NH I've been running on it, drilled out the plugs, cleaned the passages, and installed set screws in the holes. When I got it back on the car I was able to start several times on the first or second pull, and switching to BAT I even got a free start. In the morning the lumber yard will be open and I'll get back to work on the house.
(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on July 06, 2015)
I was working trying to get my TT back together. Checked my valves and seats/ cleaned them up. Grind the valves and recut the seats, looks a lot better. Found some old repairs, cracks at two exhaust seats leading into two cylinders. Someone at some time brazed them up and put new seats in. The engine was running fine, so I hope those repairs are ok. I hope to have the engine back in next week - I have been saying that for weeks :-) Can't believe how slow my progress is, oh well, I am having fun.
Pulled the Ruxtell and replaced the P139, ring gear and pinion. Set the clearances, and reinstalled. Then reinstalled the Rockies in the last 2 weeks. I'm getting ready for the Branson tour. Tried to fix a rusted out passenger door but only succeeded in "band-aid" fix until I get another door skin or find a body man. Going to take it for a shake down spin tomorrow. The non-T stuff has been renting a storage shed and cleaning the perishables out of what uses to be my 36 x 80 storage shed until Mother Nature blew the roof 2 miles east and collapsed the walls. I need a week in Branson!
Wayne I'm glad to hear you're feeling better enough to get back into the tinkering again!
So far all I've done is actually enjoy them, this past weekend was the best by far this summer, as the temp. was perfect and didn't rain! Great car show Saturday, and a great ride with the wife for ice cream at one end of the county, then across to the other side of the county to pay a visit to her mom. Really nice ride.
I haven't been working to the Ts much this spring. ive been driving them regularly, but my shop time has been dedicated to another project. Last week, I did manage to put new tires on the '14. I finally admitted that all white smoothies just don't last long enough to fit in my budget. So, I switched to Wards Riverside tires from Lucas. I miss to look of the whites, but these should last for many more miles of driving.
Working on something of our own for a change. Stepped away from the booming T business and put together a T powered hill climber. Model T block, frame rails, radiator, and gas tank. Everything else strictly racing parts. Trying to get it together for the FAST meet this weekend. This brute should be scary fast. Sorry if the pics come up inverted. My iPad thinks we're in Oz.
I've spend some time thinking I need to reline the bans.
I drove mine to the Post Office and the bank this morning. On the way, about 1 mile from home I felt a sharp stinging in my right upper back. I didn't know what it was and couldn't reach the spot with my left hand. Then a minute or so later felt a stinging on my left shoulder. I reached it with my right hand and felt some kind of bug inside my shirt. I squished whatever it was and went on. Now have red itchy spots. I couldn't find the bug.
My garage is full of black widow spiders, so it might have gotten down my neck as I got into the T.
Pulled the body off my '26 Touring over the weekend. The engine / trans is coming out for an overhaul (valve seats are bad, I'm sure the bores are tapered, etc.). Hoping the mains are still serviceable... didn't notice any knocking while driving around so fingers crossed.
So, basically, I've started a body off overhaul (hate to call it a resto as I'm not aiming for show quality, just a really good looking / running driver). I'd like to have it back together by my Halloween birthday for a trip to the apple orchard. That may be a bridge too far...
I removed the crankcase to replace the 2 rivets at the bottom near the drain plug. They had been leaking oil. It required more dis-assembly than I would have liked. This is our '15 Runabout which has been in retirement for several years.
I installed rivets made from used non-demountable wheel rivets. The engine had been rebuilt in 1985. I had to remove .005 in connecting rod shims and nearly twice that from the mains to correct clearances. With less than 10,000 miles I thought that was a bit much. I suspect they might have used softer babbit in '85. I also spotted a crack in the block which I put some J B weld on.
It certainly is easier installing an aluminum hogshead with the engine out of the car than a cast iron one with the engine in the car.
While driving the roadster recently I noticed what I consider too much play in the steering wheel, resulting in a somewhat more exciting driving experience than I prefer. The play amounted to about 1½". So I set about looking through a few other steering gears to see if I could find parts with less wear.
I even tried the gears from a 1915 case (center), though the one on the car is later. They didn't quite fit. Interestingly, that drive pinion has two keyways while the later ones have one. The shaft at the bottom end of the pinion also comes in slightly different lengths. I'll keep those parts for when I get around to installing a 1915 steering column in the car.
I did find some parts that were a better fit, and they reduced the steering wheel play to about ¾".
Steve, try jacking up the front of the car and watch all parts of the steering linkage one-by-one while wiggling each of the front wheels left, then right. You may find several small areas of play that can be tightened up one at a time to further reduce your steering wheel play. The last time I did this, I found that my pitman arm was slightly loose on the steering shaft, so I removed the cotter pin, tightened the nut as tight as I dared, then installed a new pin.
Yes, I did check the front. I set my camera in front of the car and shot video of what happened when I moved the wheel. As I've already reworked lower stuff, all the play is in the case.
Steve and Richard, you guys sure post nice photos---helps a lot in understanding what you are talking about. No pictures here but last night I removed the adjusters from my E brake rods and ran a tap through them with some Gibbs lube. They were bottoming out before expanding the shoes but now go in far enough and I can actually use the rear drum brakes to help stop the thing. The shoes are lined so they work pretty well.
I put my hood back on. I have been so busy tying up loose ends after my Mother passed. It has been impossible to do any T ing.
I bought a rusty '27 steering column at Auburn this spring for $2 because it has a locking cover on it. Been hitting it with penetrating oil since then and yesterday I had a few minutes of "nothing to do" and worked it over a bit. got the spark & throttle rods loosened up, then was working on the main shaft through the frame bracket (used a little heat on it & found out I have to fix my O2 regulator, it gains pressure hmmm) and the top came loose (did get the shaft to move a little bit in the bracket too). Well, unscrewed the cover, and nice grease inside and (as I suspected) 5 to 1 gears! Now to finish plumbing the air compressor and glass bead the shaft ends so I can take off the bracket. Maybe I can straighten the main shaft (there's a slight bend in everything on this column!).
Now the really hard part, freeing up the lock assembly!
Think these parts will go on Barney, the patina is right.
My Granddad and I pulled out his 27 touring out today now I need to get a mouse out of the exhaust pipe because the car fills up with exhaust fumes, the mice drive me crazy
Changed all the acetylene hoses on my '14 Touring. Hope to play with the carbide generator and make light this weekend!
By the way, I ended up with enough extra acetylene hose to do another car. Anyone near Milford MI, want some free hose?
I broke it While on its first official tour with the Tin Lizzies of Arkansas. It developed a very bad vibration. So now it is tore all to pieces and scattered all over the place. I am rebuilding a new rear axle assembly because the front drive shaft bushing had .138 thousands wear in the bushing and the u-joint will slide front to rear on the shaft about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. With luck she should be back together soon . ..
My 1926 TT project now has its wheels ready to go.
Rich, I'm working on the exact same thing for my TT. I just got the rims painted yesterday. What did you paint your wheels with? They look great.
After almost two years, finally got the roadster road-worthy. Took it to a car cruise yesterday after partially installing the interior. Won the Best in Show prize and Ms. Pennsylvania posed for me.
Incentive to leave it un-restored!
I'm teaching myself how to do diamond tufting. What a job!
Justin - I used Evercoat Feather Fill as the sandable primer and did several iterations of painting and sanding. I found the paint didn’t always flow into the gaps in the grain, but by using my finger as a squeegee after applying the primer I was able to fill in any thin voids. The black is an acrylic enamel I got from a local wholesale auto paint store, mixed 8:1:1 with a reducer and a catalyst. I added a small amount of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter to give the paint flexibility, hopefully, to mitigate future cracking due wood expansion/contraction.
The 21” split rims are new reproductions and the rear 20” rim and snap rings are originals. A local plating shop removed the zinc from the front rims and all the pieces were cadmium plated and overlaid with a clear chromate protection layer. They said cad would outlast zinc for environmental deterioration.
The tires are Lucas, front and back.
Given my experience with cad-plated hardware, I have my doubts about it outlasting zinc. So far my galvanized rims, after three years, are fine. Of course, they're kept indoors.
Made some old Heinze coils buzzing and sparking again.
New Kevlar bands and Anderson timer in the speedster. Rebuilt NH carb, rebuilt generator and new wiring harnesses on the sedan. I took the Anderson timer off the sedan and put an old wore out Ford roller timer back on. It improved the performance noticeably. Now I'm determining why the Anderson is being a problem, it's showing a weird wear pattern. I'm going to try a shortened brush to see if it'll help.
Just pulled the engine out of my roadster to fix the clutch, and hopefully I will be starting to rebuild my flathead v8 by the beginning of next week. but the t has to get done first
I made a passenger door for the primitive pickup since my son thought it was scary without any door (though there is a seat belt to stop passengers from falling off when it bounces)
Still no driver's door, have to move the hand brake first..
Combined work with joy and drove off some junk:
Then I noticed one of the tires was low on air. Filling it up didn't last, so I put the spare on. Then I learned something about how hot the exhaust really is - apparently the spare sits so close to the exhaust so the cord on the spare has been damaged
Got to make a tail pipe that deflects the exhaust from the spare..
Always something to work on
A Frontendectomy. Replaced the front end with another spare I had. The one in the car the axle was bent, spindle bushing's shot, wishbone loose and worn spindles. The replacement is the same however with '26-27 spindles. I know the purists will complain! Still adds a nice rake to the car. Now it looks right, steers better and less hanging on for dear life. Yes i will replace the spindles and the 2 piece shackles.
George -- I have '26-7 spindles on my '21 Runabout, and I did it on purpose! The later spindles have only 2/3 as much camber as the earlier ones, and that reduces tire wear and enables the car to handle easier. The 1" drop really isn't noticeable.
I really didn't get as much done this past month as I wanted to, but all things considered, I cannot complain. The '15 runabout is coming along a bit. Except for some fitting work that needs to be done around the seat tub after the sheet metal and the wood frame are attached to each other, the major wood work is done! The seat frame and pillars are done and in place and square. This past month I brazed a few patch panels into the steel body for rust-out and other damage, repaired the cowl, heat and shrunk a few distorted areas, repaired a dozen short cracks. A few more hours and then the first heavy coats of primer can go on.
Yesterday (Friday), I nailed the body's original February '15 body manufacturer's tag back onto the new wood.
With a little good luck? By the end of next week, I hope to have the rest of the steel nailed back onto the wood. Not the best work I have ever done? But not too bad either.
Other than a few family and health problems? A good month. Another '15 runabout is on the horizon.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I wanted to fabricate a new equalizer for my AC brakes that allows me to operate the Ford parking brakes independantly from the AC brakes.
Not having access to a tubing bender, I searched around online for something already bent to the right dimensions and found this hand truck extension (in red):
After some cutting, grinding, and drilling, I ended up with this, which hangs low enough so that it won't interfere with the parking brake shaft.
Mark, Anything to do with braking? Just be certain that it is PLENTY strong and works effectively!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
moved 1st "T" to it's new home in WY
U were dead serious about moving. LOL
Richard...hope you're well...haven't heard from you in ages
Scott...wow, from Florida to Wyoming!?!...one heckuva difference in climate to say the least! From the looks of the barn and the scenery, I'd say worth it! Enjoy!
in the past 4 years of looking for a place in WY, we have met and made some truly wonderful friends, so we have a solid support group there already...a huge help when dealing with the logistics of this type of a move.
We will finally be able to store all of our cars under one roof and still have plenty of room for the machine shop and gen/starter/carb rebuilds that I do.
It's a nice size property, out of town and 2 hours from Yellowstone. We love it.