We decided to replace the brake lines on the 2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4 that we just purchased.
We used NiCopp as mentioned in a previous thread and am happy with the ease of assembly.
Now we are having a problem in bleeding the brake system.
I have done this procedure many times in the past without a problem but GM decided to make it complicated.
Thank God for Utube and the Internet.
They tell us that we need GM Tech II scanner to do it correctly and it will only cost us $1,000 to $1,500 to get it.
Needless to say I am not happy.
What happened to the easy fix?
I am going to push the POS out of the garage until I can get it to my mechanic for a simple brake bleeding because he has the correct thingy.
In the meantime I will work on my T.
At least the T idoesn't have an OBII connection and it is simple to work on.
It seems that the only cars worth having are really new or really old. Anything in between causes problems.
I agree 100%.
I can make a T run but if a late model car quits all I can do is call a tow truck.
I dont know why you are having so much trouble Fred. I have an 04 Silverado I bought new in Dec 03. It now has 90,000 miles on it and still looks and runs like new. I hope you get it going soon.
Moderns are great until things start to go wrong. Last fall the fancy automatic electric stuff on my twenty-year-old Camry went expensively south. I traded it in on a "new" Camry only six years old. I'll drive it until things start to fail, then trade it in. If I get 100,000 miles out of it, I figure I'll be ahead of the game.
All my cars lately have topped out over the 100,000 mile mark without a dealer call. My 2004 is the lowest mileage so far and has 170 and has not been to that bad place once yet. I did have to repaint the hood from sun on clearcoat. Exploder a '94 almost hit 300K before the Cash for Clunklers got it.
It wasn't broken. All we did was try to get ahead of a problem by changing the corroded brake lines.
I think Steve Jelf has the right idea with his old Suburban tow vehicle,
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Wholesales-OBD-OBDII-scanner-ELM-327-car -diagnostic-interface-scan-tool-ELM327-USB-supports-all-OBD/103779_523624051.htm l
Is this any good?
Fred - I am stopping by my BIL shop today on the way home to get the brake lines done on my 04 Silverado. I'll ask and see if he has a way you can bleed the air out of the ABS system without a scanner
Fred: I just use my HF reader (the 180 dollar one) and clear the *&)(*^&(% codes when they pop-up and it works for me. Didn't you know the automobile company's want everyone to go to a lease so they never give up ownership of the vehicle and they can tell you what will be done and when?
Here's my solution to the modern vehicle blues.... I realized that when I retire, I don't want repair bills that cost me 3K. I don't want to replace an entire "touch-screen" just because the part of the screen that controls the blower motor no longer works. So, I bought this 1970 C-10 for $800. I spent another $3,000 making it road-worthy. I replaced every external bearing I could get to, including water pump, alternator, fuel pump, etc. I also replaced the entire brake system.. In any event, I went from bumper-to-bumper mechanically, and did it all for under 4K. It runs like a dream and best of all, I purchased every part from NAPA, most of which was in stock.
The way I see it, It's 45 years old and if taken care of, it'll be around for another 45 with no problem.
Fred: sorry about your problems. It's a real PIA for sure! Dave, kinda like Steve said about the "fancy electric" things going south, this is my main concern about all the "really new" cars, that are basically a computer with wheels that we drive around in. Once that fancy built in computer screen in the center of the dash starts to go bad and things don't work and need replaced--they can't be fixed, just replaced--hang onto your wallet. To that extent, in about 10 years or less there's gonna be a whole lot of crappy used cars out there with bad parts or if repaired, an inflated price tag. All this electronic gadgetry, in my mind, is going to have a tough time holding up to the rigors of hot/cold swings, not to mention rough roads/vibration. I'm afraid those tiny little pressed mother boards simply aren't going to hold up. Just sayin'
Fred you should be able to go to any good mechanic who has a snap-on Solus or equivalent scanner and get the controller bled for a lot less than the dealer ship, check around. Good luck, KGB
James I just did the same thing for the exact same reason. My 2008 impala is a pain in the neck but this truck was so easy and cheap to work on it runs better than my modern car. All the bodywork, paint job, parts and truck for just over $3500.00
Ryan, that is one nice looking truck! I'm still driving my '97 F150, almost 146K miles on it, barely uses a quart of oil between changes every 3,000 miles, ready for it's 4th. set of tires this summer. She's a keeper. Barely any rust on her, I literally rinse her down every time I get home in the winter driving on salt. Have a hot/cold mixer faucet in garage to hose off with nice warm water, sloping drive lets water drain off before it freezes. I'd like a new one, too expensive, and yes, too much electronic crap on 'em too.
Sitting in Albuquerque and waiting on a replacement transmission - found this on CL:
My 2000 Suburban tow vehicle still runs great but the electronics are driving me nuts. Every now and then when you go to start it it starts and shuts off right away. If you let it sit for 10 or 20 minutes it will start right up and run fine. I am told that the truck thinks it is being stolen and the response is to shut down. I asked my mechanic to disarm the alarm system but he says you have to tear the steering column apart to do it and that the computer that controls that function also controls things like the door locks and other sensors. The annoying part of it is that mechanically the car is great but all the bells and whistles that they insist on adding to these new cars wind up being a major expensive problem. Wish I was better at dealing with electrical problems and computers. I did however manage to deal with the "check engine" light that keeps coming on because of some stupid emissions code. After having it reset dozens of times by my mechanic I put a piece of black tape over it.
My 2000 Chevy Silverado has 335,000 miles, 180,000 on its new engine. I replaced the front brake linings for the first time a few weeks ago. The transmission is still strong. I have shelled out some cash keeping it repaired. I feel confident about driving it anywhere I want to go or hauling anything I want to haul. Modern vehicles are expensive to fix, but this one doesn't require fixing very often.
The brake simply simply needs to be re-bled at a mechanics shop. He will take the scanner and "pulse" the computer controlling the ABS system while its being bled, no big deal, they do it all the time on newer cars. It will cost the same amount as a standard bleed. The Tech II reader tool is about 200-300 bucks online, but it is cheaper to just take the truck to be bled at a shop with the computer tool.
Now I only drive a 1972 El Camino and soon a '57 Chev. Previously I drove a 1990 Camaro which was always a pain electronically...anti-theft, starter interlock, various other interlocks, TBI fuel controls, ignition controls.....Finally the California DMV smog controls turned down the screws on the requirements to the point where I couldn't pass without a new engine. So I had to park the Camaro...now you are going to tell me to get a Ford!
Additionally I am spooked by the thought of drive-by-wire in all of the new cars. The accelerator pedal has no physical connection to the fuel system...not sure about the brakes.
Just let me have a wire to the coil/distributor, a linkage to the carburator and a hard connection to the brakes.
Fred - not trying to rain on your parade more, but check your exhaust manifold bolts too - 5.3 and 6 liters are famous for it - ask me how I know...
Have you tried just letting gravity do the job? The abs unit is higher than the wheel cylinder, it might just bleed it self when you open the bleed port on the wheel cylinder and wait a bit.
Just re-read some posts - Ted - you went 335,000 miles on a set of front brake pads?
Or were you talking about the lines?
I have mixed feelings about modern vehicles. They are wonderful when everything is working correctly. They start instantly in any kind of weather. They are comfortable and quiet, but when something goes wrong, watch out!
The horn on my truck doesn't work. Well, it blasts all the time when I replace the fuse, so the horn relay is stuck, and it drains the batteries when it sits long enough. Should be simple enough, right?! Just replace the horn relay. Couldn't be more than $15 or so from your friendly auto parts store. Not so! The stupid horn relay is built into some 800 + dollar module, and can't be replaced by itself. Caching!! How stupid is that? There are several unused relay positions in the fuse/relay box.
I think you guys have the right idea. I love my 04 silverado but I sure have fond memories of my 76 cheyenne and previous to that my 64 long bed and 46 1/2 ton.( all chevys ) They were easy to work on (when needed) and parts were everywhere. I really like those old trucks. Maybe not as quiet and smooth as the one I have now but they did the job.
Greg said, "Just re-read some posts - Ted - you went 335,000 miles on a set of front brake pads?"
Greg, I had an acquaintance, New York City boy, now deceased, who had a '56 Chevy that he had driven about 800,000 miles.
A fellow asked him if that high mileage was really true ?
"Yes, about 800,000."
"How many new motors ?"
"How many sets of tires ?"
"Don't remember. But I'm still on my original brakes."
"No sh!!t ?"
"Yep. Same brakes. But 7 new horns".
Brakes last a lot longer with manual transmissions, but you'll need a new clutch now and then.
Ryan - Your truck looks GREAT! I chose to keep mine in the original paint. I think it looks cool all original like that and it has a period look with the fat wheels and tires. Plus, I want to use it so this way, I'm not worried about scratching it up. But man, yours sure does make me wonder what mine would look like all freshened up!
James, I wasn't going to paint mine. It was good enough...but the truck was $2,500 and my budget was $3500-$4,000 so when the seller said "I do body work and could take all the rust out and paint it for another thousand", I said yes. He cut out the only rust on the truck and replaced with metal, and did the paint job for $1000. He kept apologizing for taking so long (about a month) because he kept finding little dents and taking them out. I said "Take as long as you need" but started feeling guilty about all the work he was doing for a grand. It was only blue before, and I love the 2-tone look so researched the original 2 tone colors and had him do it up like they were in 1973. I'm still going to use it as a work truck, but am ok with the bed getting scratched. I bought a bunch of spray paint that matches the white and whenever there is a new scratch in the bed, it gets a quick paint-over.
I love the look of the C-10, but up here couldn't touch a decent one for under $5,000. I won't say I settled on the Ford, because I love it, but certainly love the look of the C-10 just as well.
Such a deal !
He clearly loved that truck ....
You have lucked out on that deal.
I thing we found the problem!
We found that the rear bleed screws were on the bottom of the calipers.
A quick switch of calipers from the left to the right and we can now bleed the brakes.
My son claims that a Ford guy did the brakes, but we can't figure out how he blead them before.
He might have turned the truck upside down.
When I got home from work I found that the bed had been raised about 8 inches and my son was replacing the brake lines.
The auto part guys are getting all my money!!!
Fred that is great news. I'd rather my money went to parts than labor! Freighter Jim, he did love the truck. It was his uncles, who had bought it new and had just passed. He thought about keeping it but didn't have a garage and needed the money for restoration of his own car. I gave him extra for the job. He was a good guy.
I really like these modern car threads. My 91 corolla wagon was out of commission for three months. I spent 300$ in diagnostic work chasing what we thought was a short. I bought another computer for 30$ on eBay which is used but works. In the end the culprit was the distributor cap, which was changed one year prior. I don't know if it's possible, but I was driving the car like an idiot when it quit. Winding it out in each gear at high rpm. I no longer drive it like an idiot. I thought it was bullet proof. Nothing is bullet proof.
Fwiw, I forgot to mention my failed distributor. cap had a short between where the coil and rotor carbon contacts. Soon I'm going to dump hundreds on new timing belt water pump radiator and related gaskets and seals.
Better get a car that doesn't have any distributor, timing belt, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, etc. Anybody know of a car like that?
yes Steve, I think I DO know of a car like that.
I would not recommend the sane guy to diagnose any future car problems if I were you.
That was an expensive way and a long time to find out the car only needed a distributor cap.
By the way, our 2001 Corolla just turned over 216,000 miles. It does NOT have a timing belt, or distributor.
It has never had a new water pump, alternator or starter or radiator. Or fuel pump. Or the automatic transmission.
still going good, uses 1 qt. of oil every 2,000 miles.
And it was made right here in the U.S.A. !!
It has had front brake pads three times and rear shoes & cylinders once.
I am presently working on a disgusting American car with low miles and a broken timing chain and bent valves. What a bitch. One of those great GM engines that they brag about.
It's the American car companies that are raising hell with this country today, not the Japanese.
I work on all makes and you could not give me an American economy car or truck or van with an automatic transmission.
I have had automatics take a dump on Plymouth Voyager (3 times in 175,000, Chrysler Town and Country (2nd time at 186,000) & Ford Windstar (2nd time at 191,000).
The Chev Astro Van kept on going, but 13 miles to a gallon of gas!??? That was at 55MPH on level ground with no load. They also had poor brakes. Sre was a good strong vehicle though, with more power than it needed.
Then I got an old Aerostar with a 5 speed. I liked that van, Too many oil leaks that were too hard to fix, junky clutch linkage, terrible switches and controls. Had to add toggle swithes and by-pass some safety switches. Reminded me of French and Italian electronics.
Never could figure out the heater controls.
Had good brakes except that one or both rear wheels would always skid in a panic stop.
With my '51 Ford F1 at least I can limp home when something goes wrong and I can fix it without taking out a loan.
I drive alot for work. My last truck '03 F150 went 340k before I dumped it for a '13 F150. I have 87k on it now, no major issues other than I will have put on the third set of tires on it by August or September. My first truck was a '93 F150, I loved that truck.
The '03 I could replace a coil in ten minutes before I sold it.
Wow Steve jelf that's very good insightful advice.
Mr.Griffey, I understand your point about my mechanic but he is an old friend and has been very fair with me in the past.
I'm sure you noted that the failed distributor cap was less than a year old with few miles on it. We didn't think to look there and my mechanic felt like a dumb ass for not catching it earlier. Mr. Griffey I have always enjoyed your posts and have a high opinion of your automotive knowledge. I write this with sincerity, sir.
The price of technology - Tesla Battery replacement per internet search $30,000 to $45,000.00 for a 900 pound battery. Motor replacement $15,000.00. Then the cost of recycling the battery?
Aaron and Dexter
The discussion reminds me of the time we lost the motor in a Buick Rivera.
With the recommendation of someone at work we went to Price's Sunnyside garage in Newmarket NH to have it changed.
After the swap it did not run correctly and Jim refused to return the car until it was right, so he paid for a rental.
He said that he could feel a stumble - or hesitation so he changed almost everything, including the motor again.
Finally after a few months he fixed the problem and we got the car back AND we did not have to pay any more than his original quote.
That was close to 15 years ago and we still go to Jim for most of our automotive work.
He is like a family friend and if I unable to fix the truck I would have towed it to him.
When you find a good one stay with them!
I understand now. Your mechanic made an error. Not always a big deal and you seem to be ok with it.
That reminds me of a similar thing that happened to me.
About 20 years ago my ex wife called me and said her Accord with fuel injection had crapped out on the San Rafael/Richmond bridge. That was very close to my shop.
She was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Until that day I had never heard of a fuel injected Honda, but it sure was.
Anyway, I had it towed in and I checked it out, seemed to be getting fuel.
I called an electrical specialist.
He spent a couple minutes and found out it was a cracked distributor cap.
Gads, I felt stupid.
Never saw the ex again. And I'm sure she has another car by now, if she is still alive.
We finally finished replacing the brake and fuel lines on our new 2003 Chevy Silverado 4X4.
Now all we need to do is build or buy a trailer for the T and figure out how we are going to find enough money for gas.
This is what it looks like:
My biggest fear is that when/if I need to get a new car again, I will not be able to find a vehicle that meets my needs and has a manual transmission. Manual transmissions are getting harder and harder to find. Driving an automatic just ruins the driving experience for me.
My fear of being forced to buy a new vehicle is that they are so
ugly, I'd be more inclined to put a bullet in my head than be seen