We were discussing acetylene gas line location on the 1913 and 1914 cars about six weeks ago and the question of clamps for that line came up. Royce furnished a picture of one at that time and I had mentioned I would post a picture if I could get one off without breaking it.
RV gave us the length of the 44 inch 1/4" brass gas line that runs from the steering sector area to the rear so I made up one using ferrules soldered to the 1/4" to duplicate the gas line ends.
This weekend I was able to remove the gas line clamp located just in front of the handbrake mount on car #312,XXX, July 1913, and took measurements for anyone that is interested.
The small bolt is a 1/4"-28 thread that is 3/4" long threaded 1/2" up the bolt. The 11/16" cotter pin goes through a hole centered 1/8" from the bolt end. Bolt and nut are 3/8" square. Seems like it should fit the brass line tighter and it may have been "opened up" to get the brass line out previously.
The strap is 1-5/8" long x 1/2" wide and made out of steel about .045 thick. It appears to have been finished black but it was not paint. The look is much like metal strapping material is today with a little spring to it. The only finish left was where it mounted against the frame on the inside top of the lower rail.
Seems to be original but I have no way to know. Anyone else have these on their acetylene gas line?
Ken in Texas
Your clamps have been bent up some. Originally they had an eye just large enough for the acetylene line to pass through. Believe it or not I think for your car they only used one, so if you have two, so much the better! Should you require another, I think Kim Dobbins made a few of these some years ago.
Here are two I have showing the contour.
..and some dimensions I took.
Nice info Ken.
I only have the one clamp just in front of the handbrake mount. I don't believe a second one is necessary with the eye in the clamp to grab the tube. 18 gauge must be it Richard.
The 44 inch length of the 1/4" brass tube does allow the gas rubber tubing to be in the best spot to hook up the radiator in front and generator going through the splash apron at the rear.
If you run a carbide generator, any moisture will "trap" in the rubber hose coming through the splash apron. I haven't tried one of those yet but that piece of hose probably would need a short brass tube in it under the car to drain it if that's the case.
I run a Prest-O-Lite B Tank and had some clear vinyl tubing under the car so I could see if there was a moisture problem. There was no moisture in my lines after I used up one 40 cubic foot B tank of acetylene over a period of the last six months. Non-issue for a POL so I have clamped all the rubber acetylene hoses.
Ken in Texas
I'm going to take the little rascal off and put the eye back in it now that I know what it should look like. The eye will keep the brass tube in place.
Thank you for the response.
Ken in Texas
You remove the hoses from the headlights and generator connections when the system is not being used. Adding complexity doesn't improve reliability. Any moisture just evaporates out.
See the instructions:
The "Useful Hints" above apply only to a acetylene gas headlight system using a carbide generator with its inherent chemistry.
E & J sold a water collector because of the condensate issue of using their carbide generator,
I'm sure it doesn't amount to much of a problem running the lights for an hour every once in a while but these adds were when the systems were really used.
There is no need to disconnect the hoses on a Model T gas headlight system when using a Prest-O-Lite Tank. There is no condensation or water in acetylene gas and opening the lines will only introduce ambient humidity into the system.
The burners bleed off the acetylene gas in the line when I shut the gas tank off. Also, I do not change the regulator settings and have not had the lines "open" in six months.
A relight of the headlights, after a week are more of not being used, will take about 30 seconds after turning the gas on. A "same day" relight will be as soon as you can walk to the open headlight doors with a lighter. That is about as un-complex as it could be to run gas lights.
My burner flames will be right where they were set the last time the headlights were used and is the reason Prest-O-Lite furnished the tank regulators more than a hundred years ago,
1913 add in Motor Age. At the time, there were 22,000 locations to exchange Prest-O-Lite acetylene tanks and they were not the only ones in the business.
I have had a lot of fun tinkering with the gas lights for the last 7 or 8 months and it really is a very simple feature of the Model T to use once you have them set up. I picked the POL tank because I have had an oxy-acetylene rig for years and understand tank gas better than carbide.
It takes 2-1/2 minutes to light all three kerosene lamps and two acetylene lights. Less if it's a relight because the acetylene is already at the John Brown burners.
Ken in Texas