Here are 3 pictures of the rear passenger door on my touring. I can close the door, but it will not stay closed like it use to. What do I need to do to adjust the door? Thank you.
Trim door cardboard panel at the latch. Looks like latch handle is held open by cardboard. Then tack back loose gimp welding as that fold now could hold the latch open.
If that fails then the door latch needs work as spring inside can get weak over time. You have to disassemble and find hardware store spring to match, not too hard to repair. The door strike is usually OK don't have to mess with that.
Have you considered just taking the door off and running without ?
How are your hinges? Try pulling up on the door at the same time you slam it. If it stays shut that way, you have a sag in the hinges. If the door will move up and down when it is open, you have a hinge problem. it is very hard to get the screws out or tighten them because of the many years since they were installed and that they tend to rust in place, but if you can, try tightening the screws in the hinges and see if that helps.
How long did it work well and when did it start to no longer keep the door shut?
What changed? In some cases the kids in the rear seat have a combined weight increase of over 100 pounds when they change from being 4 years old to being 17 etc.
Sometimes the wood sill starts sagging a little and the gap in the rear door increases and now the bump or weight that used to not bother the door will now open it.
Sometimes the door warps a little over the years and it doesn't line up as well as it used to.
So I would think there may be one or more possible causes. Depending on the cause or causes -- you may want to straighten the door (a screen door diagonal with a turn buckle can often help with that).
Also from the photo you posted I cannot tell if the striker plate is or is not in good shape. An illustration of it is located at: http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_t/productmedia/catalog_product_gallery/i ndex/id/435913/image/1/ You can also compare it to the other ones on the car. The striker plates are interchangeable for mid 1916ish to 1924 ish (and the 1925 style will work – but they only have 2 holes rather then 4 holes.
Hap l9l5 cut off
We had a 1913 with that issue. With the top up the doors stayed shut but with the top down the doors would not stay shut due to sagging of the 1913 body.it
The car has been in the garage for over 3 years. I think the door worked when I bought the car, but I am not certain. The engine is ready to be installed so now I am looking at other problems.
I looked again at the latch and hinges. The opposing door works fine, but also closes. This door is unable to close enough for the latch to engage. It might be due to the hinges. Some of the screws holding the hinges in place stick out a bit, and the hinges need some cleaning because they have enough rust and scale on them that they may be preventing the door from closing far enough.
It might also be the latch. It appears that the striker may need some filing down so that the latch can close enough to catch the striker. It looks like I have something to play around with.
The car is going to the shop to have the engine re-installed this week. I will have to ask Adam and Jim to look at the door latch. Maybe they will have some answers and this problem will be solved. Otherwise I have some detective work to do once the car returns.
Thank you all for your suggestions.
Wait until after the engine is installed. The additional weight could tweek the frame just enough that the door will shut OK, or if you adjust it first, the engine install could cause it not to fit again.