I have a wood deck trailer which in 3 years old, sits outside. When new the deck was made from treated lumber. I need to put something on it to keep it. What do you guys use? A deck paint, a water proofer, linseed oil?
A lot of people do not understand the dynamics of surface coatings, oils, paints,
Oils such as linseed are best for repelling water absorption, and not trapping
water IN the wood like sealers will do.
The downside is the oiled surfaces can be slick. This may be a good thing if
you slide load materials on the deck, but one needs to be careful of that added
slickness for falling or load shifting.
Sealers, .... those with a "skin" surface coat, are rarely as pliable as the wood
and will have that surface cracked when the wood expands, letting in AND TRAPPING
all that moisture you want kept out of the wood IN the wood.
Oils, absorb IN TO the wood and move with all thermal expansion/contraction,
and thusly offer a near bulletproof water resistance. AND, you can go back over
it with more oil later when it starts to wear thin, ... something the paints and
sealers will require the stripping of the old in order to apply new.
Back when T's were being made, paint stores everywhere carried tinting colors
for oils. Shingle roofs, barns, EVERYTHING got sprayed down with oils, often
colored oils. Yuo can apply it with a Hudson sprayer. Super quick, super easy.
And a long lasting finish you can reapply with no prep. Just watch for slips !
After a careful cleaning and a total drying, I painted my wood-decked car trailer with black enamel marine paint (for boats) and taped-off 15" wide tire paths on each side and used sand to provide a non-skid surface, over which I applied more black paint.
It looks terrific and after 50-years of owning and maintaining boats, I feel confident regarding the longevity of the marine paint.
The non-skid is essential.
This is where your old oil drained from your Model T is going to come in handy. Either spray or brush on. May not be the best coat, but better then nothing and best of all, free!
Never did this myself, but when we lived in Western Montana, there was a huge number of cedar shake roofs on the homes, although, we had a composition roof. Eventually, I guess due to the sun, after a few years, those cedar shakes would dry out and turn gray, and begin to actually curl up. It seemed that the standard method of treating those cedar shakes involved linseed oil, made black with some type of powdered graphite. (....no idea where they got the graphite,....) It used to seem strange to see a neighbor's gray and weathered roof with a bunch of curled up cedar shakes, all of a sudden one day, the formerly gray roof was very black and the shakes would almost magically lay down flat again.
All that to say, it seems like maybe that linseed oil/graphite treatment might be a good thing for a wood deck on a car trailer. Just a thought,.......harold
BOILED Linseed oil and Mineral spirits - 50% - 50%
is what Truck Carriers and outdoor wood pro's use.
Works great on metal also. Use it on antiques, farm equipment, undercarriages, concrete coating
and other issues.
This is all very interesting. I've never thought of linseed oil as an outdoor finish.
Question: What about termites, fungus, moss, etc ? Is the oil a food for organic attackers ?
Wood that is exposed to harsh wet environments lasts longest when coated in marine spar varnish. That is why mariners use it. Linseed oil of any type simply does not compare in terms of protection. Ask anyone with a wood hulled Chris Craft if they would consider coating their boat with linseed oil instead of polyurethane spar varnish.
The most superior protection is offered by two part epoxy / polyurethane products such as Awlgrip. Next in line would be single stage polyurethane products like Minwax.
Moisture content in wood needs to be maintained at the level that it was when the wood was alive, or as close to that as possible. This is why a product that totally seals the wood is needed and desired. Ideally you would coat all surfaces to prevent moisture change in the wood, not just the top surface.
A wood preservative recipe that has served me well for treating wood siding for rustic and naturally looking aging features (mildew and all) is the "Forest Products Laboratory Natural Finish". Works well for machinery preservative also.
|FPL Natural Finish|
Natural Wood Finish.pdf (80.4 k)