Am trying to lay things out to be able to correctly put 'Cranky' (the '25 coupe with a rebuilt frame) back together... I had saved the drawings from a Forum discussion back at the end of April. (Subject line: '24 Fender bracket). The drawings caused me to pause and question... Believing I was dealing with an absolute 100" (c/c, front to rear crossmembers) wheelbase, the drawings reflect being about 3/8" shorter in total. Since I am trying to make sure of using the correct frame/bolt locations for the installation of fenders, supports & running boards, etc. and ultimately the body again leads to that questioning. Any suggestions for finding those details?? Would the 'T section' of an old Dykes' shop book help? (Have access to a 1926 edition.) Any information appreciated!
This thread has a lot of frame information from very early till the later cars down near the bottom. A couple of points. Most of the frame information there is very useful for determining the exact year of a frame. The year is coded in the top right (your right) corner of each frame illustration. There is a 1924 to 1925, and a 1925 to 1925. Yours could be either of those depending upon whether it is an earlier or later '25. Any frame from 1919 to '25 model year will work under a 1925 with no changes. 1920 and up would have the same running board brackets. Earlier frames would work with minor modifications. There was very little change in mountings on the frame during those years.
Another important note, the measurements are metric. This can be confusing to "us Americans" at first trying to figure out where the holes go using the numbers shown and our "inch" rulers.
Good luck! Hope this can help.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Wayne, was your post supposed to have a link to an earlier thread in it?
The 3/8" is made up by the caster in the front axle. The wheelbase is 100", not the centers of the crossmembers.
Use the firewall location as your starting point on the body. If you have the brackets mounted correctly (not backwards), everything behind it will fit. Make sure the brackets are perpendicular to the "straight" frame.
Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit. BEFORE painting! You don't want to make adjustments when the paint is fresh. Make the body fit the frame, not the other way around. Start with a square and straight frame and the rest follows.
This does not directly answer your question, but you may find it of help as you reassemble your car. Several years ago, a series of three articles was printed in the Vintage Ford on "Assembling a Model T". These articles were based on the original Ford process sheets that detailed every step in assembling the car. It will tell you the order Ford used when assembling the parts to the frame, and describes which nuts and bolts were used where.
I hope this helps,
Thanks, Guys! Posted my dilemma, went to bed with my questioning thought, woke up, coffee, computer, ANSWERS! Just wondering if there is a schematic profile lay-out that identifies 'locations' from front to back? Thanks!
Huh? Uh! Yeah.
I know it was in there. Try again.
You provided the exact kind of link I was hoping for. Thank you, and very much appreciated!! Now, 'all I gotta do is figgur owt da metric stuff'.... (It has been a while.)
I am not sure what happened the first time??? I was trying to put another link in also, but it wouldn't work with the copy and paste for some reason. I guess when I deleted that attempt? I must have got them both.
Good luck Marvin K! (You should post a few pictures of your project!)
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
The diagrams show 'top/side/bottom' which helps tremendously. Thank you. I hesitate to post pics when 'purists' may not appreciate my approach. Wires are being hidden, 'patina' is getting replaced, glass & safety updates, etc., etc. 'Perfection' within my own sight will likely allow pictures when there's something actually worth looking at???? Yes, it will still look like a '25 coupe! Really wish I could have seen your '24 when we were out there.