I have an actual 1915 speedometer I'll install eventually, after I get my new wheels with holes in the hubs for the gear and after I get the speedometer in proper operating condition. But until all that happens, I'm using a $25 bike speedometer. I had to splice in a few feet of extra wire to reach all the way from the front wheel to the steering column, but that was the only modification required.
The hardware for mounting the sensor is a short bit of 1/4 pipe welded to a big washer with the hole drilled out to 9/16".
On a 1915 T you don't have a large horn button sticking out from the side of the steering column, so you need to make something to hold the little computer. That's the item on the left. It's a piece of 3/4" conduit with a nut welded on. The thing on the right is the magnet holder that goes on the hub.
When I did this on my 1923 touring, the mounting hardware I made was much too complicated. After seeing how simple and straightforward Dan Treace's setup was, I copied his idea.
Here's the computer unit mounted on the steering column.
It's a little tough aiming and shooting a close-up one handed while driving down the road, but you get the idea.
a good idea; I will copy it. Thanks for the Pictures.
Steve, I did something very similar for my 1926 Tudor. I used a Schwinn bike speedometer. It all worked fairly well, except that at least once during a trip it would reset everything and would need to be reprogrammed to work again. I figured that the magneto was creating radio noise that was being picked up by the wires between the readout head and the sensor. Tried moving the wires, but it didn't help. I wasn't that concerned about the actual speed of the car, I wanted to know how far I was traveling. I use a Garmin now. I'd be interested in knowing whether or not you have any trouble like this. Mike
With the Velo 5 on my touring I've never had the slightest trouble with interference, so that's what I got for the roadster. Yesterday's drive was the first time I've used it, and again there was zero interference. I ran the wire down through the tube on the steering column, but that's the only shielding.
Well now that's cool!
I like mine - No Wires, No Sensors, No Fuss !!
Hall Wind Meters, like Bob's, can be found at http://www.hallwindmeter.com/wind.php
Bob, My best friend from high school is a police officer in Poulsbo Washington. His name is Howard Leeming. If you ever run into him (figuratively I hope) you'll find he's a pretty strait up guy.
I don't think Bob's idea will work in SD where we have wind 300 days of the year. If the wind is from the NW at 25 mph with gusts to 40 and I'm traveling West, how do I figure my speed?
That sounds like a middle school math problem that I hated then and have no idea how to solve.
How it works :
The wind speed indicator doesn’t necessarily know what the vehicle velocity is but it does know what the vehicle velocity isn’t (within reason).
Forward velocity magnitude is indicated by an ingenious self-aligning LDR (Little Red Disk).
Off vector velocities are handled by azimuth offsets in the device installation mechanism.
The linier diameter variance of the air pressure chamber automatically compensates for temperature, humidity and atmospheric density by using a vectored trajectory linearization technique.
This linier diameter variance will integrate the error into the analog mechanical calculator of the wind speed indicator.
Thus, by using errors and cross vectored velocities, the Wind Speedometer” will always indicate the precise true approximate vehicle speed.
I do not want to know how fast or slow I am going. Ignorance is bliss.
Sure - really simple, Bob - if you're an aeronautical engineer - ha-ha !!!
Funny, but my cat uses that same wind vector math to decide if she wants in or out.
or out ...
Bob - I understood your explanation perfectly until your last line when you said,....."the precise true approximate vehicle speed". In fact, precisely approximate in itself is a difficult concept for me to grasp,......harold ; ^ )
But to get the true approximate speed, you need to stop and find out what the wind speed is, and that might require turning the car around if you have a tail wind, then you can add or subtract the speed shown when stationary (add if you turn the car around, and subtract if you get a reading pointed in the direction you are traveling.