Car I bought has an Anderson Timer. I put it on and can not seem to get the correct length on the commutator pull rod. When I advance the timer lever the Anderson Timer rubs on the fan belt. This car has the aluminum split type crankshaft pulley; not sure if this is larger than stock? The only solution I can think of is to just bend the commutator rod to lengthen it??? Will try this tomorrow. Any other ideas?? Thanks
What type of fan bracket do you have? Sometimes the fans that mount onto the upper water outlet (which it looks like you have) are swung the wrong direction to tighten the belt, that is towards the lower pulley rather than away from the pulley.
I nave a similar problem with a right hand drive.
The flanged aluminium pulley or fan belt wore through one of the commutator wire's insulation and was about to cut the wire!
I shrink wrapped the wire, relocated it towards the rear, took the 22 Touring for a drive to discover that the belt climbed the front pulley flange and hit the fan. Coincidence. I don't know.
I stopped. loosened, reset the belt, tightened the upper pulley and it hasten't happened since.
Here is hoping.
Tom/Brendan: I will tighten the top pulley and see if it clears? It does not look like it will? Maybe a combination of tightening and bending/extending the commutator rod? Thanks. Chuck
You are not alone with that difficulty:
By Jerry VanOoteghem on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 12:42 pm:
It's very common for the timer rod & cotter pin to hit the fan belt. It means your fan belt is too long, and not necessarily that your timer has rotated too far.
A long fan belt allows the fan mount arm to swing too far to the right and therefore brings the fan belt too close to the timer.
Not saying you haven't got timing issues, just don't use the fan belt as your gauge of timer position.
See the whole thread for more information:
Also, remember that bending/straightening the timer rod is going to affect your timing.
(Message edited by adave on July 15, 2015)
I had the same problem on my first Anderson.
My solution was to use a fine grinding disc to cut a second slot in the rotor for the pin, about one slot's width away from the first. This advanced the rotor so the body could be further from the belt.
Replacement Andersons (i have worn out a few) haven't needed this though.
A TW timer solved my Anderson issues, not only with getting the rod to easily go through the mounting hole on the top, but more importantly because it was working poorly, no spark on #3 cylinder. They're on all my cars now except the one with the (ahem) Tru-Fire.
The fan pulley you have is of the "improved" style.... follow Tom Carnegie's advice and move the pulley since it mounted concentrically (sp ?)... should give extra fan belt clearance.
Think the problem is solved? I am a ‘newbie’ to the 26/27 T’s. So took the top pulley off this AM and adjusted the cam in that pulley; it was too late last night to work on it. Tim; would no spark to #3 cylinder be because when the timer lever is fully open (pulled down) the #3 point on the commutator can ground out on the commutator rod if it does not have the right bend? Now I need to try and get spark and adjust timing.
Thanks for everyone’s help!
Just to expound a little on what Chris said, the Anderson rotors made by the previous manufacturers were more prone to this problem. The new rotors made by me (Tip Top Timers) have been re-timed to alleviate this issue.
Chuck...yes I suppose it is possible that was happening but don't remember seeing it. All I know is a new timer solved it! Then I let that sleeping dog lay!
Why not move all your timer wires over one position?
Tom, this Anderson timer came with the car. Not sure how old it is; assuming it is pre Tip Top Timers? I was just pulling parts out of the parts boxes that came with the car. The engine was overhauled by previous owner. Valves and top of pistons are brand new. Pulled the trany cover and looks all new bands. But engine has never been started since overhaul. So I got the timer on, adjusted, #1 is firing as the #1 piston is starting the down stroke with the timing lever fully retarded. Gaped all plugs and they are all firing. Put oil in the engine. I had a magneto in my parts box; but it is for pre-26. So now need the screw in type magneto and waiting for parts!!