Starter problems?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Starter problems?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harvey Cash - Winnemucca Nevada on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 11:20 am:

As work has been progressing on the green coupe I'm building for my sister, I attempted to start the engine yesterday and the starter switch became very hot and the starter didn't engage, or even click. My question is do I have a starter problem or maybe just a bad bendix? I started the engine many times with the starter before I installed the body but it's been sitting for several months and now nothing. I was able to use Steve Jelf's favorite starting method and after some effort got the engine started with the hand crank. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions and help. Harv.
starter


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 02:35 pm:

If it's not spinning it could be the bendix is jammed or the starter is in need of rebuild or could be shorting out. If you jump from battery bypassing the switch does it spin? Does the engine crank when using the hand crank? Is the engine new and tight?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harvey Cash - Winnemucca Nevada on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 03:01 pm:

Mark, Engine hand cranks and starts great, I just removed bendix and starter. tested starter and it spins quite slowly and acts like it needs a rebuild. I think while I have it apart I will replace the bendix and have the starter rebuilt, that way everything should be fine for my lifetime. Thanks for the input. Harv


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 04:31 pm:

You're in for a re-build for sure. One thing: If you have the braided negative batt. cable it can cause a problem too. My '27 was a slow cranker and one time, when I had the rear floor out I smelled then saw it smoking very slightly. The connections were clean & tight so I replaced it with a cable. Big difference.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom 30 miles N of Memphis TN on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 05:30 pm:

It is very likely you have a switch problem. If you have a digital meter, do a voltage drop test. I suspect that switch needs taken apart and cleaned. With the switch engaged, what is the voltage to the starter? It should be very close to battery voltage. If it isn't, you have resistance (the hot switch points to that) that needs correction.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harvey Cash - Winnemucca Nevada on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 06:52 pm:

Charlie, I do have the braided neg. battery cable, I will change that out .

Gary, I have a new floor switch coming. Hopefully with everything new or rebuilt it will work. Thank you both for responding. Harv.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Bergmann Sydney - Australia on Saturday, July 18, 2015 - 09:29 pm:

Hope you get a good new American switch. Had an new import on my 27 and had no end of trouble. Replaced with a well worn original type replacement switch and trouble gone. Make sure your bendix cover is 100% leak proof. Lovely coupe by the way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Sunday, July 19, 2015 - 11:06 am:

Agree with Tom Bergmann..... current repro non-Ford switches have welded contacts during use..... not up to carrying amperage needed for starter.... happened to me,couldn't disconnect the ground at the battery fast enough, engine started, bendix did not disengage from flywheel so engine was in effect was running the starter.... Scary when you don't expect a problem.

Get an rebuildable Ford switch.


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