Was removing the column from the car anyway but can't seem to get this off. Had a 3 jaw puller on it overnight no movement. It's possibly first time its ever been off of the shaft.
the bracket is pulled back and the arm for the spark rod is removed. Also the hole in the spark lever is oversize.
Tough job. I've beat on the arm close to where it fits on the steering column using a good size hammer or mallet. I've also beat on a large punch the end of which was rounded off. I placed the business end of the punch on the arm as close to the column as I could to avoid a blow that might bend the column. Once the column is out of the car you can rotate the arm to the position you have the most access. I've never had luck on a stubborn pitman arm using a puller.
Just take two hammers, big one and a smaller one.
Hold the big hammer on one side of the arm and tape withe smaller one several times firmly on the opposite side of the arm and repeat it around the arm and you pitman arm will come off.
While you had the puller on it nice & tight, did you give the end of the puller screw a nice sharp whack with a hammer? You could also add heat to the pitman arm hub after you get the puller wound up good and tight. Or, do both of the above together.
Do you have access to a puller with a locking collar that holds the jaws so they can't expand? I'm not home so can't take a picture, but with that type of puller you can hold tighter and get more force.
What Andre said. Works really easy.
There have been times when a problem presented by my Model T has caused me to scratch my head and wonder how the heck I would ever solve it, but even if I couldn't get the answer from the forum, it would usually present itself if I just stared at it long enough. _Uh... usually.
I had this same problem with the pitman-arm and couldn't get the darned thing off because there was no space to get in there with a hammer and whack it from above. _That seemed to mean some kind of puller would be needed, but then it dawned on me that if the steering wheel and steering case cap were removed, I could hammer the steering shaft from below and drive it up, out of the pitman-arm. _It worked.
(Of course, first pull the cotter-pin and remove the castle-nut.)
This is best done with a soft-face hammer, but a metal hammer and an 18-inch length of wood will work just as well—and there's a great deal of visceral satisfaction to be gotten from dealing with a frustrating problem by swinging away at it like the Model T owner depicted above.
a hand grinder with a metal cut wheel. Cut the boss several places careful not to cut into the steering shaft. hammer lose and off.
Modern car tie rod ends are removed like Royce said. Tap, not tape.
It is know as distorting the taper.
Now that the bracket is pushed back and the arm on the spark shaft is removed I think there is "just" enough room to use a med size bearing puller. I've use the two hammers and still on.
Jerome ; What Andre' said is the only good way,without damage.
Had the one in my car apart a couple weeks ago to fix loose column. This worked for me. Place the column in a vise. Put a puller on the arm with some tension on it. Heat the perimeter of the arm body with a torch where the shaft goes through it. Tap the end of the puller bolt with a hammer once heat has been applied. It popped right off for me.
I used one of these, worked like a charm.
Gary London - I think what you are talking about is a "Posi Lock puller. I have a set of these and they are fantastic!
Google Posi Lock Puller and you'll find info on a really greatly improved variety of gear pullers like Gary London is talking about. Believe it or not, I've seen them for sale in the Sears Stores in their tool department,......FWIW,........harold
I just did this on two pitman’s. Tried all the ‘right' ways and then did what Andre said. It worked and was so simple. All it needed was a little metal-on-metal persuasion! Just don’t hit it directly.
Harold have you tried to use one of these on a drive shaft sleeve? Just wondering if they would work.
John - No, I can't really say that I have. Have not had my two Posi Lock pullers all that long, and have only used the large one to pull off a Model A rear brake drum, but it sure worked slick for that,......harold
John ' I used the same system as Andre'wright on the drive shaft sleeve ,and it works. But you can not use the bussing anymore
Heat it up let it stand for 2 min. pour cold water on it, it will tap off easy, Bob
Well, here is another common way of removing the Pitman arm...no heat, no pullers...just a little sweat. I didn't do it!!!
Not reading through the whole thread to see everyone else's ideas but heat and a good puller is the best answer. Not so much that you melt the part but just enough to get a nice red glow. You have to break that 90 year old seal. While working to remove the shackle pins from a 15 Smith Form a Truck spring set I had to use a rose bud and a large hammer to get them to move. Time can do amazing things with metal.
I used a torch to warm up the arm and a BFH (Big F-----g Hammer) to remove the arm. No problem.
It's off and it got ugly. Car is at the house and no heat is there. In photo one you can see puller setup number two, still no movement. In between each step I used the two hammer method and no looseie. I cussed and just cut it off. Before the cussing Start's if I had wanted to retain the stock steering this is not what I would have done but I plain to replace it with new 5:1. The arm looks like the ball is still round and later today after the funeral will check it all out and prep the parts for new bushings.
There is a correct puller just listed on eBay for $35 buy it now. No connection MG
I know a lot of people do not have access to a set of good torches--myself included if I am at home---if I can bring it to work I am good.
However, Something that might have helped here, I would suggest as a cheaper alternative, a Mapp gas torch with high heat tip. If you are not familiar with them, there are the same size as a propane torch/cylinder and burn much much hotter. The initial cost if you buy the kit with the self starting tip is about $50, replacement cylinders are about $10, all available at home centers /hardware stores.
I use mine ALOT. It will turn parts red hot if they are not to thick. I recently used mine to heat and bend some 1/4 wall steel tubing very easily. I also use it to expand parts that are a slight press or slip fit, and loosen rust bolts and nuts. It is sometimes no replacement for a good set of oxy acetylene torches, but it is something a home owner on a budget can have.