How do you power your winch on or in your car hauler? I have a new 3000 lb winch for my new enclosed trailer. I have a #10 wire coming from the truck that is hot with the key on. Can I put a lawn mower size battery in the trailer, hook it up to the winch plus the wire from the truck? The winch came with two short #6 wires to hook up to the wench. Do I need a full sized car battery? I would not think the #10 hot wire from the truck would safely handle the current draw but could be used to charge the battery. I will use the winch when loading a T or my 50 Ford. Inputs would be appreciated.
(Message edited by adminchris on July 22, 2015)
Just Googled the amp draw on a LLC 3000 ATV winch which is what I have. It says the amp draw is 180 amps. I know the amp draw on a #10 wire is 40 amps so that answered part of my question.
(Message edited by adminchris on July 22, 2015)
I use a deep cycle marine / RV battery for my winch
I've used a Group 26 battery.
Do you have your battery hooked up to you truck for charging, or recharge it when you know you are going to use it? Or maybe keep a battery tender on it?
Harry - I use a lawn mower battery with mine.
I use a 600 amp jump start box for mine. Works well.
Do you have a 7 way connector on your tow vehicle ?
If so - you should have factory wiring that includes a 30 amp 12VDC supply line.
Depending on the load on the winch - you can use this to " trickle charge " a 12VDC deep cycle battery.
But - if you are only using the winch periodically - you are better off to use a large group size marine deep cycle battery that you can fully charge before each use.
The winch should connect directly to this battery.
I use a deep cycle marine and just throw the charger on it before I need it.
Yes Jim. I have a 7 pin connection with the blue wire being live. Looks like most prefer a deep cycle battery and maybe charging it when needed. Thanks everyone for sharing.
Your enclosed car trailer should have electric brakes. That means you are required to have an on board battery to power the brakes in a disconnect emergency condition. If there is a tiny battery replace it with a rv deep cycle battery. If there is no battery add a battery. Then tie it into the aux power cable to charge the battery while in motion.
Jason, it does. Did not know I was required to have the battery for the brakes. It has the electric breakaway modal and cable. I will look into that. Thanks.
I have a small cheap winch.
I run it with two jumper cables connected to each other fro the truck battery.
The winch as a cable long enough to get to the jumper cable.
I just ground the other winch cable to the rear bumper..
I intend to run a #4 or 6 wire along the truck frame so I don't have to fiddle with jumper cables.
A number 12 wire is definitely not large enough.
It is large enough to run the heater fan though.
I use a yellow OPTIMA 12 volt deep cycle battery to power the winch and emergency electric brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected. The OPTIMA batteries are sealed.....I am tired of having battery acid run down the wood floor of my trailer. I even us a sealed battery in our model T. No more acid damage!
The electric breakaway pin switch is required to have a separate power source from the tow vehicle.
You can get a complete kit locally from a store like YT Tractor Supply or you can buy a kit from
a place like e-trailer:
I order my trailer hitches for tow vehicles & my weight distribution set ups from e trailer.
They have the best prices ...
I just grab a spare battery from my workshop and sit it close to the winch when needed using the supplied battery leads & clips that come with the winch.
I usually just drive my T into the enclosed trailer. My trailer is wide enough to get in and out of the T when T is in trailer. In the event that the T will not start, I have a mechanical mounted winch inside the trailer and just hand crank the T into the trailer. I do have a small battery inside the trailer that is used for lights in the trailer for night use. The battery is charged from the tow vehicle.
I use the winch for the power unit - which is a bear to get on the trailer. Sometimes for the Shaw - the lug wheels are fussy on the ramps.
I use an A/C powered winch with a small generator. The winch is from Harbor Freight and rated for 1300lbs pull, which will pull a T up into the trailer easily if needed.
All good advice.
Use an auto-type battery with bolt terminals, which makes it easy to connect to. Put it inside a marine battery box, which keeps it clean and would contain any acid overflow, and usually comes with a tie-down strap and a couple of 2-hole straps to run the tie-down through.
Connect the hot leads from the auto directly to this battery, which will let the auto's battery charge it when you're driving, and don't worry about a charger.
The way it will work is that your car's alternator will 'see' a battery needing charge when either the car's or the trailer's battery is down, and put out sufficient voltage to charge it. As both the car's and the trailer's batteries reach full charge, the voltage regulator will taper off to near-zero. As far as your car's charging system is concerned, you just have a larger-than-normal battery.
By the way, the current carrying capacity of a #10 wire that you mentioned is for 120 volts AC. We're talking low-voltage DC. But you're correct - the wire from the car will not power the winch by itself.
And the fact that a breakaway-brakes battery in the trailer is REQUIRED is correct. That job can be done by a small burglar-alarm type battery, but if you have a bigger battery in the trailer for the winch, you can let it do that job as well.
I use Cheerios to power my winch. Never have to worry about maintaining a battery or plugging it in. Always works and only takes a few minutes.
I used to be able to do that after a bowl of Wheaties or Product 19 or King Vitamin ...
Then I got old ...
Then I ran over my leg ...
I steal the battery out of my tractor before I take the trailer out that way the battery is always charged and I don't have to worry about the battery sulfating due to lack of use.