Found this gunk not long after I purchased this 26 so I wiped it off and after another few hundred miles I noticed this again today. I guess its coming up from the diff as the engine oil isn't this colour. I did top up the diff before my first drive to the correct level but maybe its slightly over full? Would this allow it to creep up the tube and leak out here?
I haven't pulled apart one of these before, whats the best way to address this leak and what gaskets etc will I need.
It looks like a combination of grease and oil. And it is normal to have a gunked up mess ouzing out there. The U joint has to be loaded with grease and there is no seal at the pivot point. When it stops spewing its time to refill with fresh grease.
I doubt its from the diff. It is common for the rear crank seal to leak. The engine oil flows downhill past the U joint and drive shaft tube into the differential. I would check the rearend to see if it is over filled. The level of oil in the rearend shouldn't be higher than the tip of your finger inserted in the fill hole and bent down at the first finger joint. ( about a 1" below the filler hole). This could also be caused by the type of grease being used in the U joint. I use the red bearing grease on the U joint and it does spew it out, its just part of owning a Model T.
Sounds good. I might change to the red grease for the two grease caps above and then I'll look for a colour change over time. It was just a bit alarming as my Coupe doesn't leak here but if it simply means a wipe every know and again i can live with that.
Thanks for your feedback
The grease cup for the U-joint is large for a reason - it needs lots of grease. One filling isn't enough, you'll have to refill the cup several times until grease and not just oil mixed grease oozes out from the ball.
It's likely the fourth main cap = the output shaft bearing from the transmission is worn. Then it'll leak more oil into the U-joint, diluting the grease faster than when the parts are like new.
But try greasing it up good and give it some turns occasionally as you drive and check how long it takes until you get the same slime oozing out again. And check the oil level in the engine before each drive. If you loose too much oil into the U-joint and possibly down the tube into the rear axle, then it might eventually be time for a rebabbitted fourth main.
Fill it with cornhead grease. Goes in solid and lightens up when worked. Does not leak as bad.
Jim - Where do you get "cornhead grease", and does it have a brand name? I've never heard of it, but your description sounds interesting and I'd like to try it. Does it come in a plastic tub like other axle grease, or in a tube for injection into Zerk fittings like some of us have hidden in the Model T grease cups?
I have seen this when the plug is missing in the transmission output shaft between the main shaft bushing and the u joint hole. Will pass a lot of oil. Unfortunately, no quick fix.
John Deere sells cornhead grease.
Might need one of these;
I checked the oil yesterday and its still running out the top petcock, done a few miles since oil change so probably not that but I will monitor.
Roger will try that suggestion, ta
Mark - that part might be needed if its really worn.
Might try a John Deere dealer next time in town and see if they have cornhead grease.
LOL. I learn something new every time I read this forum.
The rear end of my T drops a bit of oil on the garage floor. I was a bit surprised that the heavy grease could get out and figured that it was a small gap in the gasket. I finally had time to check the level, expecting it to be low, but found that it was full to the plug.
I figured that my T was special and making grease but now I see where it was coming from. I liberally add grease to all the cups but it looks as if I need to put a lot more in the u-joint.
Others might correct me, but it looks like you are wired up wrong. The two bolts that should be wired together are the two bottom bolts. It looks like you have a top and a bottom bolt wired together.
I would also recommend a grease cap with a zerk fitting inside of it. Then you can load it with grease from a gun rather than filling the grease cap 5 million times.
Yes your correct on the wiring, I'm not experienced in this so I didn't pick that up. I wonder if the other bottom bolt needs a tighten? Is there a torque setting for these?
Can you buy the right grease cap with a grease nipple (zerk fitting) already fitted or do I have to make one?
Don't think it matters if the bolts are wired together as long as the wires are stopping the bolts becoming undone.
You are right Kep. But wiring the two bottom ones requires just one wire. The two top ones have split pins and castellated nuts.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
How tight should they be?
Never been torque specs on the Model T, the torque wrench is a modern tool.
Use the appropriate sized tool as in the Model T tool kit, and you won't break a bolt. Just snug it up tight. A common 8" long wrench or socket with a 8" handle is plenty. Normal use of the smaller 3/8" size socket will do most of the small bolts on a T. For bigger jobs, 1/2 socket, like axle nuts.
Tightening bolts and nuts is a learned experience, just a normal good pull will do with the right size wrench, unless you have the arms of Popeye or the Terminator
Old Ford fasteners have been stressed over the years, so don't apply too much torque.
If you must use a torque wrench then this chart always posted by Ralph Ricks R.I.P.... can be used. Follow the lower limits for old bolts, not more than a Class 2 ever for old bolts and nuts.
And this is my only Torque Wrench, designed for Model T usage.
Perfect, thanks Dan.
Dan I like that torque wrench! my dad said a torque wrench was for dummeys that didnt know there own strength!