I just got finished cleaning and inspecting the engine in my '27 Touring and when I pulled the valve covers- I saw a green coloring in the sump. I cleaned it all out and today when I drained the crankcase, a bunch of watery stuff spilled out ahead of the black oil. Didn't smell like gas - my gut says coolant as well.
I already cleaned and inspected the head and installed a new copper head gasket. Any other ideas why coolant would be in my oil?
1. The head gasket leaking because it is improperly torqued down. One or more of your headbolts may be bottoming out not allowing full torque..
2. The head or block is cracked allowing coolant into the crankcase.
What head bolt torque did you use?
Did you torque the bolts in the proper sequence?
Did you re-torque the bolts after a short warm up?
If the head gasket was not leaking....check the valves seats and ports for cracks. Sometimes Alumaseal will save the day. Make sure the block and head are flat before reinstalling the head. Use Copper coat or another good head gasket sealant on the head gasket. I run a water pump which circulates the Alumaseal in all areas.
Just my suggestions
James, 26-7 blocks are prone for cracks between 2&3 in the lifter galley, you need to take a mirror and look up, the crack will follow to the soft plug. Another spot is from the exhaust valve down into the cylinder, if there is a crack there you can sleeve it and seat it to fix that one but the one in the lifter galley I choose not to fix since there is no really good way yo fix that one. I have been burn many times at auction from buying junk blocks, if the head is not off of a 26-7 block I will leave it lay.I hope it is just the head gasket issues for you!1
I have a radd. Tester you can use its for newer cars but if you pull radd it could be put in hose and plug other hose. Try to find problem if you can before taking off head I have made that mistake and had to put head back on to find a diff. Problem!
When you remove the head, check for flatness with a straight edge such as a carpenters framing square. You need a long straight edge. Lay it on the head and look for low or high areas. If you find any, have the head re-surfaced. Do the same for the top of the block. Unless you are going to rebuild the engine, you won't resurface the block. Obtain a bottoming tap and clean out the threads for all the head bolts and blow out any dirt you find in the bottom of the holes. Try the head on without any gasket and turn the bolts in as far as they will go without a strin and if they are not bottomed out on the head, grind them so that they can all be tightened all the way. Best to grind all bolts to the length of the shortest so they will fit in any hole. If your check of the surface of the block detected any low areas, you can fill low areas you find with high temperature gasket sealer. Next put on the head gasket in the correct direction so that the water passages on the ends of the block line up with the holes in the gasket. Place the head in place and torque starting at the center and working out toward the ends and side to side. I like to torque to 30 ft lbs all the way around and then start in the center again and torque to 40, then to 45, then to 50. Fill with pure water and start the engine and warm up to normal operating temperature. If you have an iron head, re-torque to 50 ft lbs when hot. If you have an aluminum head, let the engine cool off and toque when cold. Warm up again and drive around for a while, Then repeat the torque. Do this several times until it stays at 50 ft lbs. Check for leaks. If you have no leaks, drain the water and fill with the coolant.
This method will get you a good gasket seal. For cracks, you can try alumaseal. If that doesn't fix it, you will need to have it welded and or sleeve and valve seat. You might be lucky, because a leak into the cylinder can overflow into the valve chamber on any cylinder where the piston is at top when parked and might not be caused by a crack.
Thanks guys- here's the situation:
The green coolant was in there from previous owner. I can't see any cracks anywhere- and I have been all over this block cleaning and painting it.
Here's what I did:
1. Installed new copper head gasket with copper spray after first making sure block was flat. Head was flat as well. Used metal straight edge.
2. Drained all oil and coolant.
3. Chased all head bolt threads and cleaned everything completely. Motor has aluminum pistons and one-piece valves.
4. Reinstalled the aluminum head and torqued cold to 45lbs, will re-torque once running again.
Thanks for all the advice!
Did you measure the bolts in the block to make sure they weren't too long? Some of them need a tiny bit taken off of the thread end so they don't bottom out in the hole.
Yes, the bolts are okay. I even have washers under them to prevent the aluminum head from getting chewed up by the torque wrench- so that raises them a tad.
Let's ignore the green for a moment. Not sure how long a few drops of anti would sit there. First off what kind of coolant was in the car when you started the job? I'm assuming the stuff in the drain pan was clear. A very large amount or about what you'd expect to find when you pull a head and some stray coolant spills & leaks down? You need to run the car keeping an eye on the oil & coolant. There might not be a problem at all. A question: If antifreeze was exposed to high temps and turned to steam in a closed system (like guess where) would it condense clear?
Coolant was the ethylene-glycol stuff judging by the color in the valve sumps. Yes, when I did my oil change yesterday a bit was in the oil that dumped out- I could tell by the watery consistency of the splashing. Didn't smell like gas.
James ; Are you sure that one of the Freeze plugs is not leaking, and the coolant is going through the top of the valve door ?
Thanks Toon- I'll keep an eye for that.