Ignition switch

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: Ignition switch
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Thompson, Sudbury MA on Friday, July 24, 2015 - 08:13 am:

I am trying to replace the ignition switch tumbler assembly on my 24. Does anyone have any tips do do This? If I remove the tape covering the tumbler keys will they fall out? Which way does the assembly go in? From front or back?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Friday, July 24, 2015 - 08:58 am:

I can't answer your question but Ben Martin can. You can call him at 770-938-3376, He doesn't do computers but he is the go to guy for switch assemblies.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Don Booth@ Bay City, Mi on Friday, July 24, 2015 - 10:51 am:

Yeah they most likely will fall out. The tumbler goes in from back side of the switch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, July 24, 2015 - 08:14 pm:

It's quite easy to understand the light/ignition switch and tumbler by carefully taking it apart, sorting out the trouble and putting it back together.
You need to drill out two rivets to get the tumbler out. I replaced them with screws, but there isn't much space for the nuts, so rivets would be easier to fit when putting it together.
Often the tumbler is irrepairable, the pot metal has crumbled so it needs to be replaced. The new tumblers available from the vendors are often bad quality that needs lots of filing and adjusting until they can be used.. (Don't know if it's as bad now or if they have improved in recent years?)

If your switch is really bad you may want to buy another for spares - I made four working switches out of about eight or nine more or less complete ones found at swaps and ebay. Two has usable old tumblers and two has repros.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Thompson, Sudbury MA on Saturday, July 25, 2015 - 06:33 am:

I did figure it out,the problem was the poor quality, lots of grinding and filing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, July 25, 2015 - 11:15 am:

A machinist friend of mine (who doesn't post here, not certain he even gets on the internet much) made his own tumblers, real works of art & fit and function probably better than the originals (he's finicky!). I don't think the repros put the key slots in the different positions for the different key numbers either.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Saturday, July 25, 2015 - 03:26 pm:

The repro cylinder only fits and works with the repro switch assembly.

The repro keys for that cylinder do not have a number on them and they do not fit the standard 55 repro cylinder, as the horizontal groove is slightly off center.

There are several manufacturers of the original switch assembly and they are all different.

Good pot metal cylinders are very difficult to find and if you find one, it may not work either.

Briggs and Stratton made one switch assembly that allowed the tumbler to be removed and changed without removing the two plate rivets.

I have been looking for a key for a Briggs and Stratton 1926 Closed car door lock and found the Cole or Curtis B-5 blank is a replacement, but they are .076 inches thick and the lock slot is .068 inches wide.

I can pick the lock and the pot metal cylinder turns freely, which suggests it is not swollen.

I know the lock number and the key code, but I cannot find a blank to make a key.

I also have an early Curtis key hand punch to cut the notches to the right depth.

The lock is still worthless without a key blank.

Perhaps the pot metal swelled in instead of out, as the usual break lines are missing.

Ben Martin has rebuilt several of those units for me.

They all worked fine!


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