I guess this isn't totally OT, because I use the 1973 Suburban for hauling Model T cars and parts.
I don't know if it's because of the modern fuel or just the passing of 42 years, but the filler neck hose leaks badly so I can't fill the tank. I'll need to drop the tank and replace the hose. I wonder if anybody here has done that job on one of these old Chebbies and has any advice.
Steve, I'm no chebby mechanic, but when my ford van had the same problem I unbolted the filler tube on the body, slide it out, fitted a new hose and two clamps and reinstalled into position. Underneath I reached up and tightened the clamps, checked my watch and found that it was Miller-thirty...
I aint so sure you will need to drop the tank.The filler sometimes can be unbolted and worked with that way. If the tank needs to be lowered,make sure it is about out of fuel for light weight.
I would cut the hose in 2 with a hack saw if possible and then slit it over each connection and peel it off.That way you dont risk cracking a weld or breaking anything.I do that on old heater hoses and such. The new hose should be able to be pushed on. Use a bit of Go Jo to lubricate the hose so it will slide on better.Get new Ideal or Gates clamps for that to.Not cheap junk.
Those hoses rot from age. MAKE sure you get the right hose or you will have trouble. I tried to use a universal hose on a Ford escort and wound up paying the extra money to get a stock replacement as it would not bend and work proper.
I am not sure but I think there is a smaller hose also for vent on filler neck that may be bad. I think there is 4 screws that hold neck to body take those out and maybe you can get to it. if you drop tank I pile tires under so tank dont hang on gas lines and sender wires its hard to hold after you take off straps
Steve, I have no exact experience with a Suburban tank, but have pulled many tanks on other vehicles. I can say that you absolutely want the tank with the least amount of gas in it. I have an old electric 12v pump from my hot rod days I use that does the job pretty quickly. At 7 lbs per gallon, there is no easy way to steady a tank once it starts rocking back and forth (like having a bowling ball roll around inside the tank).
If you do indeed find the rubber hose itself is leaking, once you secure a replacement, I agree to cut it off. I use new sharp razor blades myself. And as mentioned, there is more than likely a vent hose on the filler neck too that will need replacement while your there.
You may not have to fully drop the tank to replace these, but you will more than likely have to lower it a few inches. Depending how your strap bolts are, you may not have to disconnect them totally. Sometimes loosening them to the end of the threads, or taking one totally off while the other is at the end of its travel is enough to get the filler hoses off.
And lube the snot out of the connection points of the tank / filler neck and inside of hoses when putting the new ones on. I usually use WD40 for that as seems to stick around a little longer than silicone spray. You will be glad you did as you wrestle things back together. Consider replacing the rubber hoses from the tank to the lines if you have enough time and room to get in there---slit them with a razor blade lengthwise to get them off, they will be welded to the fittings from the years.
It would help to chamfer the inner ends of the new hoses, and I agree with the WD40. I also have used it to help get old hoses off by prying them up a bit and working it under, have made special tools and hooks to do that.
Well you tell us. Can you get to the stuff or not? I assume that's the tank side we're looking at so there's no fuel door and probably no screws to remove to pull the neck out through the sheet metal. You can either be able to do the job or have to drop the tank to do it. A quick look under that fender will tell all.
Don't know about the filer repair. Parents just sold their sub. If I recall they had to lift the body to repair something in the tank.
I think if you take off the 4 screws the filler neck with cap and hose will go down with the tank
It never occurred to me that I might be able to just remove the pipe. I'll take a look at that in the daylight and see if it will work. And yes, I was definitely planning to do this on an empty tank. In 1973 American car design was in the prime of its Stupid Era, so I expect the worst. But maybe I'll get a happy surprise.
Steve , A couple of years ago I had a 1986 Chebby 4x4. I had my electric fuel pump give out and had to drop a full 30 gallon tank. You need a floor jack plus, to remove the gas fittings you will need what is called " Tapered Fuel Fitting Wrenches " to separate them from the tank. If you have the tank out; put a new fuel pump in. Be sure an use the existing rubber gasket around the fuel pump on the top of the tank. A mechanic who let me borrow those tapered wrenches told me this. It is not a job I would wish on my worst enemy. I was younger and it took me a long time to complete.
Steve - if I remember right, your tank is square and sits between the frame rails. There is a formed solid piece that comes out of the tank and is attached by a rubber hose and clamps to the filler neck. You might get lucky and might just need a hose clamp, but chances are the hose is rotten and needs replaced. You should be able to get in there without pulling the tank.
I haven't started on this yet, but I did look at the filler neck and found it seems to be held in by three Phillips screws, so apparently it's removable. I don't have to worry about the fuel pump. It's on the side of the engine, not in the tank.