I have an good idea of how to replace my Pitman Arm.. "It's just should it be replace once you hear or feel thug/free movement in the steering".
Should there be some free movement.. Are there fillers like brass caps or do I need to grease it up to fill the void, Would a new cover most of the time do the job. Or do you replace the Pitman Arm when you feel a small movement.?
This may help:
The others have covered it well. Be sure and check the gears under the steering column. Also as far as linkage goes; if the balls are not oval I like these accessories that are spring loaded. I looked in my catalogs Snyder's and Lang's and do not see them, so I do not know who stocks them; maybe Bob's. On my Speedster, I changed the steering to 5-1. It took all the play out. The only hard part was riveting the quadrant and outside column together
Royce, Kevin & Mark. I ended up grinding 1/32" off the cap and the sane off the other side.. Greased it up and WALA. it tighten up and seems real good. Thou the next time I'll get a chance to take her out will be in weekend.. but "No Parts Required" perhaps after another 100 yrs. the Arm will need replacement" Thanks Folks..
A cupped old penny from back when they were made out of some copper works better as a shim than the thin steel cups the vendors sell. Constantine had the steering lock up after driving through bad roads in Africa with his '13 - it was the steel shim cups that wore through and thus blocked full movement. A copper penny won't do that. And Yes, if the ball is slightly oval the Apco accessory cap is better, but if it's more than slightly oval, a new or better ball/pitman arm is the best option.
The drag links aren't reproduced, so the cupped penny is for compensating wear in the link. I wouldn't combine an Apco cap with any shim