A Manifolds on a T

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2015: A Manifolds on a T
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 12:59 am:

Hi, I got the intake and exhaust off a "C" motor at the long Beach Swap Meet. I see that the vendors sell the plate to make this work. What carb do I want to run? Ive been told that the A carb was to small for the A. Any help would be great, Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 07:36 am:

Winfield carburetors are one good performing carburetor that are not too hard to find, especially in Southern California. Maybe Frank has one he would sell or knows someone who would?

The Winfield carbs have a barrel throttle so they flow more air than any other carburetor design for a given orifice size.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 10:02 am:

One of the Model B, 32 to 34 4 cylinder carbs should work fine.
The A carb being too small for the engine is a new one on me as guys run the A's 55 to 60 with a good engine all the time.
They, both A and B carbs are pretty easy to re jet to match your engine. As I recall the B intake has an angle built in the the mounting flange for the carb to keep the carb level. You may have to make an adapter plate to mount any carb you use so it's level. The B carbs used a twist and pull cable for the needle and choke. It's a little like the 26-27 setup only a cable instead of rod.
You can and it has been done, just mount the manifolds without the plate. The plate does have the advantage of being able to use the gland rings on both the block and manifolds if I am correct.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 10:15 am:

My 26 roadster had an A carb and manifold when I got it. Rings and glands work good without adapter plate. Performance is good but I cannot get it to idle way down like a T should.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 10:26 am:

If you are running stock valves you are also working with a lot larger passages in the A intake and have to overcome that. You might try a restricter mounted between the carb and intake.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Tuesday, July 28, 2015 - 10:31 am:

The Model A carburetor and intake is smaller than the B. There actually is no such thing as a Model C, at least from Ford's point of view, but the post 1932 four cylinder engines are easier to talk about if you call them that. The four cylinder engines were optional in trucks through about 1941 I think.

Scott's intake is the larger variety. A Model B or later Zenith is a good carb, but there are lots of better ones. If you are interested in a Model A or B Zenith I have some extras Scott.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil, Fullerton, CA, USA on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 04:55 pm:

I remember in the 1960s when Ford was advertising the British Ford Cortina as the Model C . . .

Vintage Paul, always liked those Cortinas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 05:57 pm:

Slightly off track here. Ford England did make a Model C. a 1935 model.
It was a 10 HP side valve.

Regards, John Page, Australia


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 07:42 pm:

John,

Correct, and it has nothing to do with the four cylinder truck engines sold by Ford after 1932.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walter Higgins on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 07:54 pm:

I think the misidentification associated with "C" comes from the late three-bolt water pump heads that have cast on top a large "C".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 08:11 pm:

Walter has got the points on that one! Lots of people think that the "C" means counter balanced crank but it is just a casting letter.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Richmond, Texas on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 08:46 pm:

I have a Model B exhaust manifold and an aftermarket aluminum intake patterned after a Model A intake but with larger passages mounted with an adapter plate on my 26 four door. At first, I used a Model A Zenith carb, but wanting to get more out of the engine, I had Stan Howe rebuild me a Stromberg OE-1 carb. Turned out, the carburetor mounted on the intake rubs on the frame. I'd either have to notch the frame, remove the adapter plate to move the carb closer to the engine, or change carbs, so I bought a rebuilt Model B Zenith, but didn't think about the angle the Model B has to be mounted at. I'll probably remove the adapter plate to provide clearance for the OE-1 that Stan rebuilt. One more observation about my four door is the Model B exhaust outlet barely clears the four door firewall and body, so I may end up going back to a Model A exhaust manifold. Its just a matter of trial and error.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Lay,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Lancaster Ca. on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 09:38 pm:

Thanks Royce. I am running a zenith 2 right now. Tends to foul spark plugs though.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Wednesday, July 29, 2015 - 09:59 pm:

Check your email Scott.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By bob middleton on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 12:36 am:

I had to choke about 50% when crank starting with the A monifolds on with zenith carb could never figure why


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 11:08 am:

Thanks for the info guys. After hearing about the tight fit to frame with the plate I drew up a step ring that will fit into the T block on one side and the C exhaust manifold on the other side. That will seal up the exhaust and still have the manifold up against the block. I will have to counter bore the intake to do the same thing. Thanks, Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darel J. Leipold on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 12:04 pm:

I believe that the 4 cyl. engine offered in 1941 trucks was a reworked tractor engine. The "B" engine was offered 1932-34. The 1934 head was better that the 1932 head. I do not think that there was a 4 cyl engine offered from 1935-39.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darel J. Leipold on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 12:06 pm:

It may have been that the 1933-34 4 cal engine had a balanced crank and the the head had a "c" or something special mark on it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, July 30, 2015 - 07:49 pm:

Darel go back and read my last posting. The C has nothing to do with it having a counter balanced crank, it is just a casting mark.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Friday, July 31, 2015 - 12:27 am:

The intake opening in the B manifold where the carburetor bolts on is 1/8" larger than the model A. Also, the A carburetor mounted on a B manifold sits at an angle compared to the A manifold. You can use the B exhaust manifold in combination with the A intake. Using a B exhaust manifold eliminates the tell tail exhaust pipe from being seen when using the A exhaust manifold.
You will need to elongate the manifold mounting holes a little to line up with the new mounting studs. I have done it several times with engines that I have worked on. Make sure the manifolds are flat where the gaskets seal and use the Copper laminated gaskets. You do not need the special mounting plate.


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