Could NOT see the exhaust valve not moving thru the spark plug hole so pulled the manifolds and valve cover and this is what we found.
I don't think the car has run much in the last few years. Could this be from condensation thru the throttle rod holes?
(Message edited by adminchris on July 30, 2015)
However, having said that (YUK !) I'd rather see that than a lot of other more serious things that could account for no compression in one cylinder!
I don't recall reading anything else in the forum about this engine or it's history, or what your intentions are to do with it next Chris, but I think at least pulling the head and all the valves for a general clean-up and probably a valve job would be next.
Might just clean up to be a pretty good engine with minimal work unless you intend a complete rebuild. Ya' never know, right?
Actually, I think there's a good chance that it's a pretty good engine as it obviously has adjustable tappets, so somebody has done some work on that engine since back in the "T" era ! Might have very few miles on it since a rebuild and has just sat idle for many years,......???
put some pent.oil on valve stem tap a screwdriver or two in valve spring be easy take your time dont bend anything when it moves a little work valve up and down.
If it is a 26-7 engine block, I would take a mirror and look up above that center bolt, there well may be a crack there running to the outer soft plug, real common place to crack on those year blocks, Hope not for your sake!
The one piece valve cover on the late T engines provides a water trap. When a crack develops in the water jacket between #2 and #3 (very common if no anti freeze is used) then you have a mess on your hands.
I agree, Pull the head and take a look. There may be more to the story under the head. Might be a good idea to pull the valves and just wire brush both the valve stem and guides. I use a .22cal bore brush. If it's all good then all it cost you was some time and a new head gasket. Whats that saying about a ounce of prevention and a pound of cure.
I should have given a few more details about the car, it is a 23 Canadian Coupe that I purchase out of Tennessee almost 2 years ago and picked up a couple of months ago. The car was restored including the engine. We are the 3rd owners the guy we bought it from bought it from the dealer which was in Galt Ontario.
The rest of the valves look good. I am a little concerned over the washers I can see under the lock nuts on the lifters.
Here are a few more pictures. At work today will get back at it tonight, think penetrating oil and a bit of cleaning should get us back in action.
A 20 footer! Doesn't look bad at all from the 2nd. pic. BUT you're now looking for a localized problem. Something's going on there.
If the engine has not been run for a long time, water can leak through the head gasket, a crack in the head or block or just form from condensation. That valve was open when the engine was turned off and the the water, however it got there, caused rust to form. I worked on one in that condition a few months ago, and I removed the head and turned the engine so that the cam lobe was down and tapped the valve lightly to get it to go down. When I got it loosened up, I removed it and cleaned it and the spring up. While it was apart, I lapped all the valves with valve grinding compound. The engine runs very well. If you run the engine quite often, you will not have any more problems unless you have a severe crack. You can run the engine with the valve cover off and inspect the area for water leaking when it is warmed up.
Anyway that is the short term solution. Change the oil and see if you find water in the oil. If so, your leak is bad and you will need to do more work to fix it.
It does look like a great Coupé.
I had a situation where the carb filled with rusty water. The valve chest looked like yours but much worse. The oil was rusty/milky. It turned out to be two problems. One was a badly cracked block, the second was a blown head gasket. It was time for a new engine.
Your issues would be worth looking into further.
If it hasn't suggested already, drain & replace the oil too, while looking for traces of water.
Got to the point where we decided it was time to remove the head. The stuck valve seemed to be to tight when we pulled it out but a bit of work running it in and out it seems to be fine.
The seats & valve mating on the other hand are good on some and not so good on others.
More work tomorrow
Another interesting item we found were the valve keepers. They are two pieces and rotate and keep the valve in with modern keepers.
Progress to date, cleaned everything up, de-coked, dress the seats a little, cleaned off the valves, then lapped the valves, seems good to start re-assembly.
Now to the spring retainers, are these "Rotocaps" or "Rotocoils" ??
And where can you get some? 2 of them are really gunked up and I don't want to use them.
Mentioned in this post
It might be nothing, but in the picture, it looks like the #3 exhaust valve seat is cracked at about the 10:30 position as viewed in the picture. If that is a crack, you need to put in an insert valve seat. Also note if the crack goes through to the cylinder, you might need to pin the crack. That is drill a hole at the end of the crack, thread it and insert a bolt and grind off flush with the cylinder wall. Only a thorough inspection and maybe magnaflux will detect for sure. I am only looking at a picture.
I will have a closer look at that seat Norm, thanks.
Chris, I just did an older flat head jeep engine and they where the same ones in that block so they should be rather common. Hope this helps.