First thing I had to do is make a safe place to stow the parts so they wouldn't get damaged during the overhaul.
Then there was this gaping hole where once was a 2x4 between the walls of my garage was. The previous owner cut that section out. So I asked my neighbor whose in construction how I could solve my little problem and he suggested I put up 5 4foot lengths of 2x6's to bridge the gap.
Then nail together 3 10foot lengths of 2x6's to make the strong back beam for the lifting. Then secure it against the bridging 2x6's somehow and of course he had the perfect things for doing just that.
He loaned me these jacks that he uses to hold concrete decking up whilst installing pylons. I think these two jacks could probably hold up my entire garage, let alone support for lifting my engine. And he also loaned me his chain hoist...looks like I'm ready to pull my engine...now what to do with once I do. I'm planning on cobbling together a stand from an old furniture dolly I've got, that way I can roll it around. I can always use the hoist again if I've got to lift it for any reason too.
Do any of you think I should use that engine lifting eye that Lang's sells. The head on my engine is a 1914 low head, do you think it'll support the weight of the engine through a spark plug hole?
Or should I just pull the bloody head off and use a couple of head bolts and a length of chain instead, (I was thinking of pulling the head anyway)?
Martin : When I pulled the engine out of the Depot hack I used two the Langs Eye boles and a it worked for me. Just be SAFE. You can get hurt easily and it only takes one time to get hurt. If you have some help ask for it. Just make sure everything is in balance when you start to life and do a lot of wiggling and jiggling and pushing and shoving and twisting. Unless you have a stripped body you will wiggle and jiggle.
Good luck and becareful
Buying a engine hoist at Harbour Freight Tools has served me well over the years. Didn't cost a lot and its fairly compact and doesn't take up much room. Pretty simple way to pull an engine and its safe.
I dont like the eye lifts, It puts a lot of stress on the threads. I used a heavy two foot strap wrapped around the engine between the engine and the trans from HF and had no problem. I've done three engines this way. It seems that my photo is too big. Sorry, I really wish this site could fix that problem
Bill Dugger, oh I know about the wiggling and jiggling, went through all that putting the engine in. But back then when I put the engine in I didn't have the body, front fenders or the splash aprons or even the firs wall on yet either...this time all those items are on the car. Well, like I always say, fun never quits.
Will, Strap eh? hmmm...might be easier at that. And placed that far back it would pull the engine without a lot of the wiggling and jiggling all by itself. I'll have to look into that, thanks.
Will, this site doesn't resize your photos for you like Facebook, but it's also not full of game requests, cat videos, and bogus political propaganda.
The other advantage to using a strap is you can get the center of gravity easier. Just behind the oil base ball cap mount is center. The engine is level there, It will give you wiggle room to insert the driveshaft and front mount.
Steve, You are right about that. There's almost nothing I can't do on a Model T but I dont have the smarts to resize photos. I'm hoping that someday the forum can do the resizing for technically challenged folks like me.
I realize that a Model T motor doesn't weigh a lot but I would be concerned about your 2x6 setup. The 2x6's might be strong enough but your mounting method is weak. The way it is set up all the weight is on the threads of the screws holding it up there. The screws should only steady the bridge, not support it. I would put the cross 2x6's on top of the bottom cord of the truss and then the triple on top of that. If those screws break or strip out the engine and all the lumber will come down on you. Better safe than sorry.
I use this tool to lift the Engine on four sparkplug holes.
Ok I see the posts on the ends of your triple now. That should work pretty good.
That's a nice tool, Toon.
I bought an engine hoist from Harbor Freight Tools to take my engine out of the depot hack for re-build by Steve Tomaso of "Steve's T Works" a couple years ago. One of the best tools I ever bought, and it folds up pretty compact to store against the wall in the shop. Those engine hoists are also handy for loading/unloading anything very heavy in and out of your pickup truck too!
I have about a 10 or 12 foot length of 5/8" nylon rope that I used for a sling. Put a bowline knot loop in each end, wrapped it a couple times around the engine between cylinders #3 & #4, adjusted to get the two bowline knot loops together for the hook on the HF hoist and it worked great! Since then, it's occurred to me that one of those yellow HF nylon towing straps would work even better and you'd end up with a handy towing strap for your running board tool box too! FWIW,......harold
I've used an engine hoist with a nylon sling going through the throttle hole between cyl 2&3. Not the optimum balance point, but it worked fine - used the manifold studs to reroute the sling at some moments to get better balance, and I felt a lot more secure than I would have with the engine hanging by a spark plug thread in my alu head
LOL, most of you guys would run at the site of a 700 lbs. Big Block Chevy hanging from two 3/8 bolts. It is done all the time. I had one bolt one time almost break and I attributed to the fact it was not a grade 5 or 8, was not threaded deeply enough and was way to long causing the chain to slide out to the end of it---effectively using leverage to bend and almost break it. It was caught in a nick of time though.
I understand wanting to be safe, believe me I have had some close calls with much bigger engines over the years like above, but a 300 lbs Model T engine hanging from a 1/2 pipe thread isn't going anywhere as long as it is tight. If I finished engineering like I should have I would do the math for you.
And in My opinion, that picture above with the yellow crane needs to have the strap shortened greatly. The most effective way for an engine hoist to operate is with a small arc with the arm starting on one side of the arm being perpendicular to the upright and ending on the other side of that perpendicular plane. Sometimes you cant for various reasons, but there is not a good reason I can see in that pic.
Toons, lift plate is probably the best method from a safety stand point, albeit a little overkill. But if you every feel lazy and want to use a crane to put a head on an engine it would be the cats meow.
When I pull T engines, I use a Stevens lifting eye that screws into the number three spark plug hole. Balance is perfect. I use it in both iron and aluminum heads. I make sure to screw it in until tight.
In my younger years I never used a hoist. Just slide the engine forward as far as it can go. Remove the crank then grab the two pan ears and lift the rear up letting the nose slide down to the floor. Now you have the complete assembly resting vertically on the nose, still holding the pan ears. Lower the rear down onto a couple of pre-positioned jack stands and lift the nose up onto another stand. Just reverse the procedure to put it back in. I now have a hydraulic engine hoist.