Hi again guys,
Been busy working on all the stuff you guys helped me with in my previous threads. Got the front end all apart, firewall out, leveled the frame, ALL wiring removed from entire car, etc, etc.
I ran into a question yesterday while resting in my 100+ degree garage, looking at the 1/2 stripped T.
Can someone explain to me just how the folding windshield is supposed to work? When I fold it I can feel the little indents notching....
But...how do you tighten the levers at the folding point? The nuts seem to turn with the bolt, so no real tightening going on. How tight should those nuts be anyhow? I know it's a pretty newbe question but I just can't figure out how to make it work properly so the window doesn't fold back on me when back on the road.
I value all the input, so far all advice has helped A LOT!
The nuts should be just tight enough so that the windshield does not fold back while driving at top speed of 40 MPH. Start light and drive the car with a 9/16" socket and ratchet in the front seat. After you get it just tight enough install the cotter pins.
Something I noticed is that the top of the windshield tends to blow back more with the top up. I had it adjusted just fine until I put the top up, then had to tighten it some more.
Thanks for the info guys.
OK, so to get this straight in my head.....
Is the windshield supposed to be able to fold down once you have tightened the nut and set the cotter pin? How do you loosen it so it can fold if that's the idea?
My pivot points have a metal 'handle', one on each side of the pivot that appears would be used to loosen the joint....the problem is that there is just a bolt and nut going thru the round plate at the pivot point.
When I use these levers the whole bolt and nut turns, so nothing loosens or tightens.
Sorry I'm so confused with what I'm sure is a simple operation, but I'm not still not sure how this is supposed to work.
Yes, the windshield can perpetually be folded and unfolded without touching the nuts once it is adjusted properly.
Ken, the handle you talk about is the anchor point for the top hold down straps. The hinges have a screw driver slot on the inner side to hold while you adjust the nut. The bolt is spring loaded so set it once and forget it for a long time.
Picture to show what Jim said:
Sounds like you are missing the springs. This shows the correct bolt and spring for 1917;
Alright guys, now it's starting to make sense!
I am definitely missing the springs. Can't believe I had those 'handles' so mis-identified.
I have ordered the springs and new bolts/nuts.
Thanks to all of you for the helpful info.