OK, I'll start it this month because I've actually done something.
Storage space is scarce in a roadster, and I noticed this open area between the trunk and the gas tank.
My former sign shop used drying ovens. Having no need for them now, I have quite a bit of used galvanized sheet metal to use on various projects. I decided to use some of it to make a box to fit in that open space.
My first effort was a simple rectangular box. But I found that it was about an inch too wide at the top to fit, and about a half inch too tall at the back.
So I came up with another version.
It wouldn't fit into the space fully assembled, but with the front removed I was able to get it past the gas tank.
I was afraid that putting the screws into that last piece would be an awkward ordeal, but it was easier than I expected.
Box fully installed.
It will be a good place to stow my oil check tool and a bunch of other items I want to carry.
So that's what I've done so far this month.
Steve - A great place to store your side curtains too. I roll them up put them inside an old levi's pant leg and store them in that location.
Neat project, Steve! I wish my 1924 cut-off touring had a space like that, but the oval tank pretty much fills the entire area under the front seat.
I drove Betsy to the annual AMVETs show in DeSoto, Missouri on Saturday. It was hot, but there were lots of neat cars and plenty of good food to be had.
Worked some more on the fuel tank, draining tank sealer. It managed to slip off of the supports and landed on my left foot. Now partially bandaged up and hobbling around.
That is a great storage box Steve. I did the same thing last week in my '15 Runabout with a slanted panel and a couple stops. The hinged seat panel keeps it in place. It is a good place to store my side curtains (wrapped in the orange towel) and a tire pump. I wish my photo's were as good as Steve's.
What a great idea, Steve! _Nicely executed, as usual. _Sure do wish I had your talent.
My 12-yr old son and I finished making a top for our 1911 Sears (I know, OT...). Super hot outside this time of year...drinking lots of water.
Stay cool my friends.
Love the sears.
When I had the engine out of my roadster and then reinstalled it, somehow it ended up with a throttle pull rod about 3/8" too long. That kept the lever from going up to the top of the quadrant at idle. So my project yesterday was to make a new rod. I know I have the right one somewhere, but making another one was a lot easier than finding it. So I put in the new rod today. I also removed the Zerk I had installed temporarily over the drive shaft bushing, and replaced it with one of the grease cups from the box I couldn't find last year. Do you detect a theme here?
Steve - I guess we all know that the fastest way to "find" something is to buy another one, right? I think I must have about a half dozen or so of those "cheap" caulking guns that I need every time I buy another tube of some kind of "miracle goop"! Just can't ever find one when I need it,.....then trip over them after I buy another one!
I love the Sears! I have come close to buying one a couple of times, but never quite made it happen (one fellow died before accepting my offer). I don't think that one will ever happen either. Do you know which variation motor yours has? Me, just being curious.
Steve, that box looks mighty fine!
To help back on topic, I am still trying to do a little more every day on my '15 runabout. Sheet metal is going onto the wood framework.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Steve Jelf and Richard Eagle:
My '17 roadster has the storage box behind the gas tank from the factory.
I thought that was standard for 1915, '16 and '17 but maybe it depended on the body manufacturer? Others have also posted similar photos of their roadsters with this same box in the past.
For what it is worth, my '15 runabout (I think Beaudette body) did have an all wood tool box in that location. It is mostly replicated and in place now (One last piece goes in after the sheet metal is fully nailed into place). The sheet metal is in place now, but I figure it will take several days to fully fit and properly nail it before it is nearly done.
Steve Jelf's tool box may not look exactly like mine did? But it looks just fine to me and should work great!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Spent time looking for the steering Bkt and pitmen arm, they have been MIA for a week. got the coil box ready for paint, cleaned the drag link and tie rod, tomorrow the wishbone and the spring loaded caps. Finalized my next order of parts, just need to cal it in. Yesterday dropped off the firewall to get powder coated.
The motor in my Sears is the later "improved" version. Attached is a photo.
Last month was new bands, so far this month was tightening the rods in the speedster. Still hoping to find time to pull the engine on the sedan and eliminate the horrible bushing growl in the transmission. Fall is coming and the speedster isn't 30 to 40 degree friendly.
Mike Hanson, That is the motor you want to have in a Sears. When I was looking at a couple of them some years ago, I did quite a bit of research, and talked with several owners. If I recall correctly, there were basically four different motors used during the production of Sears automobiles from late 1908 through 1912 (although most '12s were really left over '11s). That "offset" cylinders motor is fairly robust and moderately reliable if you plan to tour your car much. The earlier versions of the Reeves/Sears motor had cylinders opposed in line, and used offset rods or pistons to connect to the crankshaft. Those motors have a tendency to break badly.
Fantastic car! I love it. OT or not.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Steve, if you push the throttle lever the rest of the way up, does the motor die? I set mine up that way deliberately. When the lever is whacked up against the stop, you then have maximum engine braking. You just need to get used to not putting it all the way up in normal driving.
Allan from down under
No, I couldn't push the lever all the way up because the rod was too long. When the carb's throttle arm was all the way down to idle, as for engine braking, the lever was still about four or five notches down. Thus the new, shorter, rod. But I got it too short. With the lever all the way up, the throttle wasn't all the way down to low idle. I had to do way too much braking and slowing down with the low pedal. At one point the car even flooded and died. So tomorrow I'll try another rod, between the long one and the short one, and see how that goes.
While I was in town several folks had to check out the car, as usual.
In the last two months, I have turned this running and driving yet incomplete T:
Into this not running, not driving, wholly incomplete (but pretty) T:
Since the chassis picture was taken, and due to the incredibly helpful denizens of this forum, I have replaced the front spindles with a pair of proper 26-27 vintage. Motor is due back next week, then I have to work on the trans before bolting the body back on and doing the body work / painting / upholstery. Lots of things to do yet but I'm hoping to have it wrapped up before the end of fall.
I have started to remove the sheet metal to replace some damaged and punky wood at the top of the quarter window. I also have some cracked wood ribs in the rear and in the rear window frame.
Steve: I've always enjoyed your posts and admired your handiwork.
Having had some bad experiences along this line, however, I beg your pardon to suggest your box is not finished.
Since you didn't fold over the top edges of the box, what you have built is a couple of knife-edges lurking in your car, just waiting for an opportunity to slice you to the bone! And, at the worst possible time!
My suggestion - get some rubber or plastic tubing, slit it down one side, and glue it onto the top edges of your box.
Then you can reach into that box, in the dark, while hurrying to get what you're after, and not have a trip to the hospital!
I don't have to say, "Don't ask me how I know." Everyone knows the answer to that!
I let another one follow me home!
Happy Birthday to me!
Today Martin Vowell and myself went over to a new T owners place to help him figger a few things out. Pulled the carb apart ,hosed it out,got it back together. Re-adusted the timer. Discovered that we had a leak in the manifold and will need glands/rings. Nice young man (under30) with a love for real old cars. Gots to hep the youngins ! Spent a little time over at Larry Blairs Tin Shed Shop also.
Martin (L) George (R)
Zachary, I would change the order of your operations if I was doing the work. The beautiful job you have done on the rolling chassis may be spoiled somewhat if you bolt the unfinished body on it. It is easier to work on the body off the frame. Painting same will not result in overspray all over your work. The trimmer/upholstery fitter would also not have to clamber all over it. Lowering the painted and upholstered body on the frame is one of the last jobs before making the final assembly of the steering, etc.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
It was a full day in the shop. The TT needed maintenance and the roadster needed clutch work. I found the mag had damage, looks like the old starter removal damage. Also found the fourth main has .015 clearance. I think that's a bit much. PK
I built an axle rack for the garage. I'm trying to make more floor space for the '14 I have been working on.
I started pulling the engine out of the '26 Tudor today. I'm hoping to eliminate an ugly vibration. I got the engine about half unhooked and the heat and humidity got to be too much for an old guy.
Earlier this week friends helped me place my now painted body back on the chassis:
Now it is starting to look like a 'T' again:
Doing some brake work on my 1948 F2 that my great uncle bought new and getting it ready to run. Did get it started but only for a short time, plugged fuel line.
Tore down the roadster pickup engine to find out why I was fouling so many plugs on #3.
Turned out to be a burned exhaust valve.
Also found <.010 clearance between the mag ring and magnets.
I finally got my engine back in my TT, now I am attaching everything back. Gave my firewall a fresh coat of paint, new safety glass. Right now I am hooking up my trick exhaust system. I got injured at work - minor, but I have been off my feet, taking it easy - so I am even slower than normal, and that is not good :-)
Looking great Tom, what head are you using???
It seems that after getting my new TrueFire I had to re set the timing .No matter how much I stretched the timer rod, just get it to stretch far enough. Cut it in two and had a turnbuckle attached. Got it, no more retarded chuffing out the carb.
George, I found the same thing with my Truefire. I ended up making a custom, longer rod out of hardware store steel rod stock.
(Message edited by cudaman on August 29, 2015)
Put Pete's new rebuilt engine by Joe Bell in the other day (no pic of in car yet on this camera) and Quick-Poly'd a new wheel for Clarabelle the '13, before I "ruin" it by painting it black! Those naked spokes sure are pretty.
Pulled some shims out of #2 on the 1923 to get rid of a knock.
Thanks John, I don't know about my head. It's the one that was on my engine, looked ok, so I am using it.
I own a machine shop so-- since the machining, we installed the engine in 2013- absolutely no work other than 500 mile maintenance. change oil about
1200miles i guess. I use royale purple 15-40. So
good or not with that oil, no problems. I daily
read these posts and all I got to say is, you
have to get things right, like no loose ends.
"All problem's have a simple solution"
Hugo Young the Flxible Co.
Replaced the coil box panels and contacts with the outstanding ones from Fun Projects. Everything went together perfectly. It certainly is nice when everything fits the way it should with no grinding or bending required.
This resolved an intermittent misfire that I think was due to old, fatigued contacts not always making good contact with the coils.
My Lovely Wife Michele got creative yesterday and helped me clean up some things!
She glued the neat poster (shameless plug for a great parts vendor in MA) to a piece of plywood, then put finish nails in spots to hang the gaskets from.
Can't figure out how to rotate the pic, but you get the idea!
Chuck that is the best wife, hang on to her she is a real keeper.
California, the land of the burning woods!!!!!!!
Got column put back together with new gears and steering bracket bushing.
I just finished a Ball Type Fence Controller from a model T coil [ Plan 47 ]