Now, that's disappointing. I'll have to overpay at the local Ace.
Bummer! Do you have a spare clamp?
Maybe you've been lucky and it's stuck somewhere in your radiator fins...
Put the engine pans back - they may catch some parts that falls off
Steve- I am sure I have a spare.
Is it as stripped as it looks in the photo or did the brass nut just give out? Be careful unscrewing it if you have to.
Do those studs go into the water jackets?
Sent you a PM.
Thanks, guys, but I have some spare clamps. The threads are fine. The nut just vibrated loose from driving on country roads.
Roger, the picture doesn't show it, but the pans are there. That didn't keep the clamp and nut from going out to decorate one of the local roads.
Mark, I just checked a couple of engine blocks, and the answer is no. Those holes are only ¾" deep.
I believe the secret is to use sbc 3/8-24 rocker adjusting nuts. They are designed to hold their adjustment and will not come loose.
You need one of those bumper stickers that say "Please honk if anything falls off".
Steve lives in the sticks and I don't think geese know how to read!
A boy scout who have been prepared.
Hmmm, I think I'll add a spare manifold clamp and nut to the parts in my running board toolbox.
For the curious, here are the spare parts I currently carry:
one fan belt
two demountable rim bolts and nuts
assortment of headlight and tail light/turn signal bulbs
fuses (my wiring harness has a fuse on the yellow wire)
tail light lens and retainer clip
assortment of cotter pins
loop of 0.032 stainless safety wire
spring clip type crank ratchet pin
These are in addition to the normal assortment of tools, a jack, wheel chocks, a funnel, a quart of oil, etc. I carry a tire patch kit, but no pump - I carry a motorcycle CO2 inflator and cartridges instead.
You need to hang the magnet from the rear end it will pick up the parts that fall off... or at least they said it worked "back in the day".
I wonder if you could wack that brass nut on the edge and cause a "crimp" that would act in the same way as that factory nut?I understand the use of the brass nuts so they wont be so hard to remove after being heated and cooled alot.
"Parts on the road" reminded me of this that happened many years ago. About 40 years ago, a friend (long since passed) was driving his early '20s REO truck around a busy area of the mid-peninsula South of San Francisco. After running many errands, and driving many miles, he got home and discovered that somewhere along the route, the rare original air cleaner assembly had fallen off. Feeling sick about the loss, but realizing that there was virtually no chance to find it, he went in the shop and sulked.
Unbeknownst to him, while this was going on, a kid that occasionally hung around his shop and watched as he worked on his antique cars was riding his bicycle along the road in Redwood City. He saw, and recognized, the air cleaner sitting in the road. Some time later, he rode his bicycle over to the shop and handed him the air cleaner, still in fine condition.
The moral of the story? Sometimes it really pays off to befriend the local kids.
The followup to the story? While the friend whose REO it was may be gone, the kid, who was at that time and is today only a few years younger than I, is still today a very good friend of mine, and still very active in the antique car hobby. We still joke about the day he found a REO air cleaner.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Thanks for sharing that Wayne, very cool
Manifold studs need to be re torqued several times until they stay tight. This is especially true if using copper ring gaskets. I prefer these, in conjunction with the steel gland rings. Many T's don't have them because they won't work with a warped manifold, as most are anymore.
I bought a replacement nut at the local Ace today. $1.29 each! If I bought a dozen to have plenty of extras, with tax they would come to $16.76. So I went online and bought a package of 25 for $14.37 (free shipping). That will be enough for four more engines and still leave a few spares.
I am so lucky that the next town south of Hillsboro (De Soto, MO) has an old-time hardware store that sells nuts, bolts, and other fasteners by the pound!
You walk in looking bewildered at the clutter, and in 5 seconds an experienced employee asks, "can I help you?"
The title of the thread could also be one of Willie Nelsons songs..."On the Road Again" Perhaps when that song was written the writer was following a Model T.
The rear stud looks kinda short, maybe for 26-27 that had the clamp turned over. I have used steel nuts to hold the clamps on all the time and never had a problem with them not coming off when needed. The brass ones are nice but may be over kill.
We always had to fight to remove the brass nuts on flathead V-8s exhaust manifold studs. The occasional one that had steel nuts came apart much easier.
"ACE IS THE PLACE TO GET ---"
You fill in the blank anyway you want, but remember this is a family forum!
ACE is the hole where - You can buy better but you can't pay less!
He wasn't kidding about the washboard roads!! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
I was driving my Coupe on a tour in Arkansas in a heavy rain storm. The little suction cup mounted prism on the windshield to help see traffic lights decided to fall off and fell slick as could be straight through the emergency brake slot.
I tried one of the suction cup prisms, but couldn't get it to stay stuck, so I got one of these. I use one on my daily driver (Honda Element) as well.
Mark, My '27 has bolts instead of studs and nuts. The bolts have rounded heads which are consistent with other Ford bolts. Is this Incorrect?
I think some of the later year T's had bolts for the valve cover door but I not sure / don't think the clamps used bolts. The studs allowed you to get the manifolds tight and you are able to have full threads into the block. Depending on the length of the bolt you may only be using part of the threads in the block or bottoming out before you get the gland rings sealed.
Someone will correct this if it's wrong.
The '27 had bolts for the manifold clamps, with dome nickel head. Part # 3066C2 Inlet and Exhaust Manifold Clamp stud (nickel head) Fac. # 4482